sealing solid hull

[lionfish]

what should i use to seal a solid hull so i can attach copper sheathing?

[jablackwell]

I used a Minwax polyurethane in a couple of coats until I got a good shine. The smooth surface allowed the copper sheathing to stick on nicely (mine was self-adhesive), and it has not come off yet!  I hope it never does!   Been over a year now.  You can see the process in my build log of the Kate Cory down at the bottom of the first page of the log:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6842-kate-cory-by-jablackwell-model-shipways-scale-164-second-ship-build/ 

Best,

~john

[Jaager]

Having had bond failure between Weldwood contact cement and flame treated copper plates - a method in the 1970's Model Shipways catalog -  investigate the best conditions for bonding with your chosen adhesive and use that to determine what treatment to give the hull.

 

It has been a very long time since I saw the brig Eagle hull, but as I remember, the cement under the failed plates was copper colored, making it difficult to tell they were missing.  I suspect the heating process produced a micro layer of a copper oxide that was not compatible with Weldwood.   I also use it to attach cloth backed sanding medium to the platten of my thickness sander.  A heat gun makes for easy removal of the spent sanding medium.  I suspect that Weldwood is medium time frame adhesive.

 

My present thinking on coppering is to use a high quality archival smooth surface paper painted with copper and verdigris shades and use PVA to attach it to a raw wood hull.

[lionfish]

Having had bond failure between Weldwood contact cement and flame treated copper plates - a method in the 1970's Model Shipways catalog -  investigate the best conditions for bonding with your chosen adhesive and use that to determine what treatment to give the hull.

 

It has been a very long time since I saw the brig Eagle hull, but as I remember, the cement under the failed plates was copper colored, making it difficult to tell they were missing.  I suspect the heating process produced a micro layer of a copper oxide that was not compatible with Weldwood.   I also use it to attach cloth backed sanding medium to the platten of my thickness sander.  A heat gun makes for easy removal of the spent sanding medium.  I suspect that Weldwood is medium time frame adhesive.

 

My present thinking on coppering is to use a high quality archival smooth surface paper painted with copper and verdigris shades and use PVA to attach it to a raw wood hull.

my plan was to get the self adhesive copper sheeting they use in stained glass works.

[Jaager]

If it is intended to adhere to glass,then poly will provide a plastic surface that is about as close to glass as can be had.  You probably want to give the surface a good rubdown wit 0000 steel wool, before, between and after each coat.  Vacuum and tack rag the dust and steel fragments throughly after each treatment.  Any steel left can rust and stain.  600 grit Silicon carbide paper may be a good alternative to steel wool.