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SMS Emden by RGL - FINISHED - Revell - 1/350 - Complete


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love the detail! I would be happy with this too. You are doing a fantastic job. i am thoroughly enjoying the build.

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Looking good mate; keep those updates coming as they are interesting readng.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Thanks guys, I spent 6 hours today (last day of leave, wife at work and kids at school) laying the brass strips on the deck that hold the Lino. Apparently they are 5cm wide which at 1/350 are 0.142mm. It's been an adventure getting them to stick at that scale! Once that's done to my satisfaction I can finally do the bulkheads on either end of the amidships section, get the fore and rear decks glued down, fill the gaps, do the pinstripes, and then start attaching the etch housings I have already posted.

 

Soo much to do but no where near as daunting as the grown ups doing a 3 master.

Greg

 

 

 

 

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Draft 1 of the deck.

 

I'm at the stage where i have to place the deck or I cannot progress. It looks as rough as guts at the moment but I can't remedy any of the gaps and errors until it was stuck down. There are little areas where it is not 100% flush but with the railings and the davits it will cover many sins.

 

As I cut the deck in three pieces, it adds to the challenge as there are photo etch ladders to go to the amidship area.

 

The lines on the deck are .01mm brass that replicate the strips to hold down the red linoleum. They bend very easily and will be straitened up now the deck is attached. I'm happy with the wine colour as it is very close to the red black required.

 

 

Amidships requires 4 sets of double doors. To the stern there will be an I beam that runs the length of the amidships area which is a trolley for ammo. The eduard doors are not to scale and waaaay to big, even though I had to fabricate the bulkheads. The doors are aftermarket and reduced at the stern end to facilitate the I beam.

 

There are a few gaps, some which I will remedy, and others will not be visible when the deck furniture is attached. Once I have fixed up the messiness of the deck as it is, I can add the red pinstripe to the hull, then start on the details.

 

There are heaps of vents not mentioned anywhere in the instructions which I ordered from battle fleet models which appears to have gone bust or the owner has had a breakdown meaning lots of scratch building, which at this scale is a lot harder to make look authentic. There is no company in the world that makes cowl vents at 1/350.

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Edited by Greg Lester

Greg

 

 

 

 

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Great progress Greg, that is looking good.  The 'wine' colouir and lino is very unusual for a deck covering and I would have thought prone to trapping moisture resulting in more ship's husbandry headaches?  Must have worked though for them to have persisted with it.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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The Japanese used Lino in Ww2, but I have no idea why. The Humbrol paint colour is called "Wine", and it's the closest I could find to Black Red which Huff said is the deck colour(RAL 3007) as the only Company that makes it is Vajello, and I just can't work with their product.

 

The photos of the wreck show a distinct change in tone between the chain area and the deck on bow area. Huff's own model has the entire deck as black, which after having lived and worked in Cairns, I find would be near impossible to believe you could even stand on the deck in the Tropics.

 

The other photos show that the deck areas astern have been badly burnt down to metal, which corresponds with the accounts of the final battle where the Aussies kept pounding her when she ran aground as she wouldn't/ couldn't lower her ensign.

 

The Kagero book shows the Stern and Bow areas are planked, which I think they just made up as it is fairly easy to disprove and their inaccuracies with the Varyag were so glaring when so much other material is available destroys their credibility.

 

That being said, I'm probably justifying by colour choice as I didn't want to use brown and I could not convince myself a black deck was correct.

 

I'm happy to be corrected as its a fairly simple thing at this stage to do it black but it doesn't make sense.

 

Again, thanks for the likes and comments and I'm open to advice.

Edited by Greg Lester

Greg

 

 

 

 

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The bow splinter shield or wave shield. I added a few pieces of 0.5mm polystyrene cut to shape to represent the bolsters. I'm just awaiting some red trimline to add to the hull. I can start on the rest of the etch bending now.

 

I have no idea why but I cannot get the photos to orientate correctly. 

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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She is looking sweet Greg.

 

Steve

Current Build: Merit 1/48 Early Eco 80' PT Boat and Imai 1/50 Catalan Ship

Finished:

Revell 1/196 USS Constitution (My oldest son's school project)
Revell 1/72 Hanse Kogge
Revell 1/50 Viking Ship
Revell 1/72 U-Boat
Zvezda 1/72 English Medieval Ship Thomas

Revell 1/90 The Nina

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Nice job on the breakwater mate

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been plugging away with the photo etch, bend and fold, bend and fold. I intend to get a lot of the furniture done up, then I'll show a dry fit, then the painted product.

 

As with the Varyag, I wanted to replace all the stanchions that were not solid (ie; they had chain rails, not solid metal ones). This means there is a small section on the catwalk that has chain rails not fixed rails and I have to complete that first before I put it on the models as it will be near impossible.

 

The Tamiya ones I used are only 2 bar but the Emden had 3 bars.

 

Of course I did a little bit of shopping and came across a lovely set of individual 3 bar stanchions with separate photo etched chains in 1/350 from Eduard. $40 or so, so quite expensive, but here are a heap of them, so I can use them elsewhere. Have a look at the photos then read on............

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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You can see they are a perfect fit.

 

One problem.

 

The plans you can see them compared on are 1/200.

 

So, I contact Eduard support, asking them if there was a mistake and the scale was correct. A bloke called Lidor replies and says he'll get back to me and speak to his people. A week later he replies. Nope, it's 1/350, not 1/200.

 

I then send him the photos above, stating I think they should probably check their slide rules], stating its a fairly expensive piece of kit to get so wrong.

 

Lidor replies and says he'll get back to me.

 

A week of so later I get this:

 

Hello Greg,

My colleagues found out that there's actually no problem with incorrect scale of the mentioned set.

However, we might understand where the problem lies - during the designing of these railings, there was a different design standard. That's most likely why this set doesn't look that good when compared to our later railings set.

This being said, I'm afraid we cannot help you with your request. If you really don't like the look of our railing set, simply don't use it.

I'm sorry I only have this kind of reply for you, but at the moment, there's nothing we can do about this issue.

Libor Havranek

 

 

Sigh, the design standard was of course wrong. Basically stiff.

Greg

 

 

 

 

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Anyway, on wards and upwards, Flyhawk make a 3 hole stanchion for the Royal navy in 1/350 and it's perfect.

 

So I cut the wavy bit of the railings off, add 10 stanchions and run some line through them. the holds are about .2mm and the line about as thin as a human hair. Its not perfect but I'm happy. It is also a very very painstaking operation getting them to stay upright and also thread the needle.

 

I think I'll send Lidor a photo of the kit when finished and continue the conversation. I'm not going to get a refund nor did I every expect one, maybe an effort to get their product right would be nice.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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Nice save mate, they look good especially considering the scale.  Pity about the attitude from Eduard - I won't purchase anything from them if that is the way they treat customers when it is their problem :(

 

Question:  How do you glue your stanchions, especially the singles - both glue & jigs to get them to stay in place and look perfectly aligned from the horizontal and vertical perspectives - and get them to stay there?

 

[Edit - I realise that these ones still have the base fret attached, I am assuming you have done singles as well where required?  The type of glue is applicable to all please]

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Back to the hull, as I will be handling it a fair bit now, I wanted to get the pinlines done which I got from BEC flags. they say they're .5mm but they are rally about 1mm adhesive strips which are very easy to use. I don't think I could mask at this scale. As you can see from the big red piece of paper it should last a while. 

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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Nice job with the pin stripes, Greg. I had to look extra close to see the deck edge lines. Must have used an Optivisor to get them on nice and straight. :10_1_10:

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Now that's done I an add the amidships rooms. Nothing lines up of course! I put the funnels together just to check the alignments and where the centre piece with the walkway will have to sit. The funnels will be completely stripped back to bare and then everything will be added to them such as rails, steps, pipes etc.

 

The machine room is complete and added. There are some fire hydrants which I have scratch built and some small skylights which also have to be added. Most of the furniture for the upper deck amidships is complete and just has to be thrown on. You can see a photo of them ready for painting.

 

I got a set of vents from Alliance model works which will be placed all over the decks as per the instructions. I did order some cowl vents from battlefleet models but the owner has apparently left the building so the will all be scratch built.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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You don't waste any time Greg, coming along really nicely and very quickly :)

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Dang Greg, the detail work you are doing is exquisite! Beautiful work my friend.

 

Regarding Eduard, that was some customer service you received.....NOT! I have always had great luck with their products, but man, they should have happily returned your money in the interest of good customer service.

 

Steve

Edited by docidle

Current Build: Merit 1/48 Early Eco 80' PT Boat and Imai 1/50 Catalan Ship

Finished:

Revell 1/196 USS Constitution (My oldest son's school project)
Revell 1/72 Hanse Kogge
Revell 1/50 Viking Ship
Revell 1/72 U-Boat
Zvezda 1/72 English Medieval Ship Thomas

Revell 1/90 The Nina

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The next lot of photos are of all the things on sticks in the previous photos, which are the amidships vents, lockers and the radio room. The gaps in between will have the funnels. I have also included the fire hydrants with 1mm wheels on top.

The radio room is fairly basic so I added a vent scratch built from brass pipe and the telegraph posts that will be required for rigging the radio aerials later.

 

Back to bend and fold, paint then attach etc.

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Edited by Greg Lester

Greg

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Moving on to the bridge, this was a lot of work to get the curves correct. There is still a little gap on the finished product which I will cover with a strip. I have also deliberately left off the ends of the fly bridge and the top deck as they are just going to get in the road when I do the masts. There is also the matter of 3 pin rails which have to be added which I have made from wood.

 

The eduard fret has etched planking which I covered with Tamiya putty as it is supposed to be linoleum.

 

I have added aftermarket doors and a cable reel attached to the officers quarters below as well as telegraphs binacles and ships wheels.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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The next is the soldiers equipment room which sits behind the bridge which has additions features such as the cable reel and to the to scale ships bell, a pinrail for the halyards as well as a scratch built funnel on top.

 

Why are the photos upsidedown? Since I went to Windows 10 no matter what I do I cannot get them upright!

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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May have been a lot of work Greg, but you have nailed it - nice detail.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Greg,

 

Fantastic work on such a small scale.

 

On your upside down question, a few logs have been opened on this. Dee_Dee has looked in to this. Here are a couple of entries that might help.

 

<Link to "Photos in log sideways"> 

 

<Link to "Photos are loaded and are upside down">

 

Obviously ignore the advice to turn your screen upside down etc. ;)  :)

 

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(Edit) I lifted one of your upside down photos and put it back. It looks even better this way up!

 

 

      ​ 

Edited by ianmajor

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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WOW  she is looking nice - superb detail.

 

OC

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Emden Update. The rear deck has taken me ages. Primarily as it is piece work on a very small scale as well as adding extras to the Eduard set. There is no reference to funnels, Cowl vents, Ammunition hoists and tackle and extra cable reels.

 

The zoomed shots make it look a bit messy but with MK1 eyeball it comes up OK.

 

The first two photos I have circled in red what are extras I have added apart from the Eduard set, and the second photo in green are what was left over from the kit. Basically the bottom on the rear capstan and a chain brake for the rear anchor.

 

I scratch built the pin rails as they would not be out of scale at 1/100 if I used the kit supplied one, as well as scratch building the cowl vents from brass pipe. 

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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The ammo hoists were made from resin mushroom vents and card, with a spare hoist from another kit. The other vents are from the same alliance model works set. The two speed indicators are north star.  I will eventually add the two vents behind the ships wheel which are not glued down as the rear mast needs to go between them. There is an extra cable reel on the rear most large vent. I also added a handle to the chain brake. Sorry the binnacle is kit supplied with two tiny bits of plastic attached to represent the metal they put on compasses to stop the magnetic field of the ship upseting them.

 

Finally some distance shots to show the size to the eye.

 

The back deck only really needs the 2 big guns and 2 little ones which will go on last, a couple of life boat stanchions, and of course a mast.  Where required I will put individual stanchions and wire them as well as the propeller guard chains.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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