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Drills and Drill stands


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Hi all

 

I've noticed that many of the experienced modellers here have their workshops kitted out with all sorts of machinery that would put the majority of the factories around here to shame!

 

When I started modelling, I have tried to get away with the least amount of tools possilbe - mainly due to financial restrictions. 

 

However, I see time and time again drills and drill stand / pillar drills being used for drilling through masts and yards - anything where a deep straight hole is critical.

 

To date, I have a hand-drill and try to keep things as straight as possible - but it really isn't easy and I've messed a few things up such as when I have to drill top - down through dowelling, so my thoughts turned to drills and drill stands.

 

I have looked on Ebay and the like and have found several examples e.g.Dremel, and was wondering if anyone can recommend anything half decent, use it for modelling purposes so it needs to do the job, but without breaking the bank.

 

If possible, any advise would be appreciated for UK suppliers....

 

Thanks

John

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I have been happy so far with what is a Euro Tool DRL-300.   I have only used it with twist drills.   Actually, the X/Y table I drilled the base to mount costs more.  I am not sure that the table will be all that useful - I site my holes using patterns and I am guessing that the drill bearings are not engineered to withstand much lateral force if it is used as a milling machine.  Light cuts with a sharp bit might not apply that much stress.

 

One useful aspect of the table is that it plus a 3/4" Birch ply layer fixed to it and another 3/4 piece lose on top take the over drill, puts the work at a good height.

 

The DRL-300 seems to be widely available - in generic versions  in a $55-85 US price range.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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This there not an Amazon presence in the UK?

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I've been modeling for well over 20 years and have built numerous ship models (25-30) actual amount unsure of, and I have never used a drill press or drill attached to a stand. To me, I can drill a straight hole with a free standing drill in my hand, especially with the new drills now a days that have the bullseye bubble on the end of the drill which helps to keep an eye on level while drilling. So in my opinion, it's not necessary.

 

 

mike   

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Like you Mike, I have never had a problem drilling a straight hole freehand, especially after getting it started, no bubble needed, the bits seem to track themselves well. Have often had some problems getting them started in the proper place and at desired angles freehand. Drilled in plastic, iron, steel, copper, brass, wood, concrete and glass. I welcome any mechanical aids I can get to work for me, especially when drilling something like a 1” hole in a steel angle iron, free hand with a ¾” or I” drill and have it catch and wind my hand into knots before I could get away, because I didn’t hold the alignment properly freehand. Today I use a cutting torch for that kind of work, but prefer to put it on my drill press if I can get it in. Mechanical aids are developed for good reasons and anyone who is asking about what works for others is worthy of a thoughtful answer. A stand with some up and down motion along with an XY table can be a great aid, especially with an angle vise added to the setup. :pirate41:

jud

Edited by shiloh
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