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Merry Christmas

 

I hope that I can clearly state this question.  I see where a large number of builders bend planks and other pieces prior to placing them on the model.  This is includes using hot irons and work boards with pins or nails to bend the wood.

 

My question is how is the curve first determined so that the builder can place the pins/nails into a work board or know when the curve is sufficient when using hot irons?

 

Side question:  In mid-January I am moving to Stow, Ohio.  Are there any ship building clubs that I could join in February or March?

 

Thanks

 

Chuck A.

Chuck A.

 

If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you even tried.

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Hmmm good question. The hard part is when you have a straight piece of wood and try to bend it into a sharp curve. Once you bend the wood using whatever method you like, even if its not at the exact curve, the strain in the wood to accommodate to the curve is very little compared to when it is straight. So a little extra bend or unbend has no big effect on it. At least, this is what I do.  :rolleyes:

 

Edit: And I use a hair curling iron, by the way.

Edited by Ulises Victoria

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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Ah, that's why your hair looks so gorgeous :)

 

@Chuck. I bend the planking using a iron, using the model itself as a guideline. I find it alomost impossible to get the correct bend in one go. So I make a bend, try it on the ship, and repeat, until the desired curve is there (or, in my case almost equally likely, I have to start over again, as the wood splitted)

 

Jan

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Hi Chuck A. I first soak the wood to get it soft and then use the hull itself as a frame. I make the bends gradually while placing it on the hull to measure. It never comes out exactly, but close enough. The wood will still have some pliability and will allow you to form it up when pinning it to the hull finally.

 

Vince P. :dancetl6:

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I do appreciate the responses.

 

When I read the various build logs, it looks like everything is so precise and everything fits perfectly. 

 

I have yet another question; suppose a piece of wood needs to be tapered before being used.  Is it best to taper then bend or bend then taper to ensure final fit?

 

If it is best to bend then taper, how does one accurately cut/sand/plane on a curved piece of wood?

Chuck A.

 

If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you even tried.

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I prefer to bend it first and then taper it. Sometimes tapering first messes up the fit. If the bend is made first, then the taper can be filed true to the bend. I simply use a sanding disk in a rotary tool to make the taper. This method has always worked for me, but other builders might have different ways to do it. Once you get some experience experimenting, you develop ways to do things that work for you. I learned from others and experimented myself.

 

Vince P. :dancetl6:

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Like the others, with bending, close counts.  I either use a curling iron or the hull, depending on what's needed  and what I'm doing.   Spiling/tapering is started before bending to get it close. Then bend and final touches with the sanding board to fit.  I'm far from perfect on my planking but trying to get better.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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When I read the various build logs, it looks like everything is so precise and everything fits perfectly. 

 

Don't be fooled.  What you see in the pictures are the pieces of wood that have been tortured into shape.  It is rare that a piece fits perfectly the first time.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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