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HMS Naiad 1797 by GDM67 - 1:60 - using Ed Tosti Books


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370 Hour Mark!  I have reached a milestone - the hull is now fully framed, ok, I still need to do the four filler frames along the stern deadwood on each side, but hey, I'm almost there...

 

I have faired the hull using a combination of curved rasps to know down the high spots and smooth rasps for the detail.  I then resorted to an oscillating palm sander with 80 grit paper to take out the heavy scratches.  I have a few frames that I sanded through to the chock...  I am debating about replacing these frames, but think the repair might be worse than what is there now.  I think  a few of these chocks can be hidden with planking, etc.  There are some small seem gaps here and there that I will fill with glue and sawdust.  Otherwise, things are exceeding my expectations.

 

Overall, I am exceedingly happy with how things turned out.  Next to do in this order are:

  1. Filler frames
  2. Refinement of the hull along the rabbet
  3. Treenail the chocks
  4. Copper bolt the frame feet
  5. Add the keelson
  6. Finish sand the hull 120, 340, 600 #0000 Steel Wool
  7. "point" each of the frames.  Making each frame butt sharp and even.
  8. Install a temporary sheer strake
  9. Finish the top timbers (remove spacers)
  10. Install the ribbands
  11. Apply finish to the lower hull

The above list will easily take me right up to the conference in October.  I estimate about 75 hours work.

 

Things I would do differently next time is to be more careful with my spacers.  While temporary, I think they should be installed very neatly and relatively in the same location on each frame.  You will live with these for a long time and they distract from the model when sloppy.

 

Also, I would wait to install the main frame spacers, which are permanent. I made mine from Holly.  While the drawings give a great reference point for these spacers, the subtle change in angle or position of the frame can change the location on the completed model.  I will redo some of these so that they run in a fair line when looking down the hull.

 

Thanks for reading!
 

Gary

 

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Hoorray! This is a major milestone indeed!

One thing about the finish - if you use oil, be ready that it might sip through the frame and end up on the inner side as well. Testing on a few scrap frames would be useful ;)

It sounds impossible, especially with grain running along the futtock, but happened for me. If that will be the case for your finish as well - probably better to apply it after gluing in the deck clamps and inner planking, if you plan any?

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380 hours in and feeling really good!

 

As you will see in the photos below, I have completed the fairing of the hull in 80grit paper and an orbital sander.  I then used a box knife blade to scrape the surface clean.  You will note the use of the templates to ensure that I was on target.  I decided to replace a few of the frames that were not up to my liking.  This was very risky and actually caused me a bit of angst as I was tearing them out...

 

Since last week, I also completed the stern filler pieces, these are dadoed into the stern transom.  I am happy with the results.

 

I marked the bottom of the lower sills and then ran masking tape to ensure they were in a nice sweep along the sides.  I then placed temporary cross spauls where the ports were to see that everything lined up on the ship.  I was pleased with the results.

 

One thing that I missed was the top timbers.  I should have made them long and then cut them down.  As it is, there area a group of 6 frames along the dead flat that are too short!  I will likely pull those frames out and redo them.

 

The time to have made some of the rework was at the time I initially installed the pieces.  Now it will take longer and I run the risk of damaging things.  This being said, I feel confident that I can make these repairs and have them look good.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

 

400 hours into the journey.  I have spent the past two-weeks doing rework on the top timbers as well as addressing some other quality issues.  Overall, I am happy with the progress, but am frustrated by the little mistakes that caused the rework.  Somewhere along the way, the scale of my drawings was converted to "fit page" as opposed to "100%".  This caused the top timbers on frames 1-6 to be too short.  Ugh.  Its only off by 3/8th of an inch, but that matters to me.

 

I want to reinforce some of the ideas on what I would do better on next time.  I have posted most of these already, and, they are worth remembering:

1. Make your top timbers at least a 1/4 taller than required.  This allows you the wiggle room, as well as a place to put your spacers and not have to worry about messing up the actual frame.

2. Make the chocks from the same wood as the frames.  I replaced five frames that had the chocks sanded through.

3. Leave plenty of meat on the frame when installing chocks - this will come back to haunt you.

4. Consider building this ship in 1:48 scale to take advantage of all the small details.

5. Install the chain plate filler pieces as you go.  They are a permanent part of the ship and can aid in stabilization of the frames.  You also will need fewer spacers.

 

I plan to replace the top timbers on the s/b side 1-6 and then add treenail and bolt details this week.  I will then do a final sanding of the outside hull and then install the ribbands.  I really wanted to get her cleaned up before I show her at NRG next month, but will not rush to do that.

 

More next Monday.  Best, G

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Edited by GDM67
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

 

Well, its been a little while since I posted, but that doesn't mean I haven't been busy. I had a great time at the NRG conference in San Diego last weekend and met so many wonderful people there.  I was very pleased with the amount of interest fellow modelers showed in the Naiad.  There were so many impressive builds!

 

Here are a few shots of some attachments that I made for my build board, which sits atop a custom rolling cabinet (I still need to make drawers for the cabinet).  As mentioned previously, I do all my modeling while standing.  I like a high platform so I don't hunch over when doing detail work.  The attachments rest on cleats that fit over the edge of the build board and have thumb screws to tighten them.  I am able to move them around where I need them.  There is a tray with a  cork lining and mahogany sides (hey, it was scrap), I have a pana-vise mounted on a cork top, as well as several Amanti jigs for cutting and carving.  I will make a few more as time goes by.  I plan to store some inside the cabinet when not in use. My goal is to keep most of my small hand tools and other accessories easily accessible in the cabinet.

 

I am 446 hours into the build.  I did a little rework on the frames.  I didn't like how some of them faired, so I ripped them out.  I am not taking pictures of the rework, too painful. I am still loving the build, but need to remember to move slow for maximum speed.

 

Best, Gary

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  • 1 month later...

Hi All,

 

Its been a crazy month with lots of honey do's...  But I thought I would send a few pictures so as to keep the thread alive.  That being said, I am 490 hours into the journey.  I have continued work on my build board/workbench by adding 4' LED lighting above the build board.  I am very happy with the results and cannot believe I went this long without good light.  You will also note to fluorescent task lights with magnifiers.  In addition, I hang my Dremel from the uprights that support the lamp.  I will get working on the shelving over the weekend, provided the Admiral doesn't have me finish grouting the side patio... 

Best, G

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  • 2 weeks later...

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