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HMS Victory 1805 by Bertu - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72

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Ian 

Thanks, I will be visiting your build to get more ideas.

 

Heinz,

Thanks, I'm eager to see the outcome of the hull as well.

 

Bill

Thanks, I try as much as I can to keep it a hobby to do at my leisure and at my pace, not a job that I have to do and to finish.

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Robert, what is the overall voltage that you are going to use for your lights, can this sort of system run say from a single 9v battery or is this done using something like a 12v system. I am reasonable with electrics and was looking at this sort of idea on a later model.

 

Many thanks

 

Terry

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Hi Terry,

If you are going to install LED’s you have to do some homework before.  If you are going to install just a few LED’ say three lights is one thing but if you are going to install a substantial amount of LED’s, like I am doing about 75 LED’s is another story.  If you use a 9V battery you are limited to just  4 LED’s connected in series.  Another problem if you connect them in series is that if one LED fails all the others in the circuit will fail, and don’t forget that most probably the LED’s will be installed somewhere where you cannot reach to replace.

 

With a parallel connection you can install as many LED’s as you like but you can never run them from a 9 volt battery as it only produces 400-500 milliampere-hour.  Normally an LED has a forward voltage of 2.2volts with a rated current of 20 mA,  75 LED's x 20 = 1,500 milliamps (1.5 amps).  So the supply has to be able to at least produce 1.5amps.

 

In my case I am using a 12 volt, 4.2amp transformer which I already had.  This is more than enough.  A 12 volt, 2 amp transformer would have done the job as well. With a parallel circuit you are going to have twelve volts on each LED which will burn it out immediately as too much current will flow in it. So with every LED you have to connect in series a resistor to lower the voltage supply to the LED to 2.2volts and the current flowing through it to more or less 20 milliamps.  Another advantage in connecting in parallel is that if one LED fails it will not affect the others at all, the rest will remain lit.

 

I am not much of a teacher, there is a very good explanation in this forum itself and also explains how to calculate the value of the resistors required.

Go to NRG Home Page/

Ship Modeling Resources/

Ship Modeling Database of articles/

Furniture and Fittings/

LED Lighting for Model Ships

 

 

 

 

Steve,

Thank you for your comment.

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Another update, moving slowly but will get there someday!!  I am using the walnut supplied with the kit and to fit the planks I am using a combination of spiling and edge bending.  There is no doubt about it, that spiling is the best way to go.  Since I made my calculations on 5mm planks in width and I am leaving a small gap in between, where the curvature is small, I am getting away with it with spiling, especially where the planks narrow more.  But there are places especially at the bow, that apart from spiling as much as  can I have to do a bit of edge bending as well.

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The top part of the hull is going to be painted, and the lower part is not going to be copper plated, I am leaving it on wood.  I left a small gap in between planks which later on I will fill with black filler so that the individual planks will show more (stole Heinz's idea). They will not come out as much as the deck planking as with the filler the walnut will darken a bit too. The planks which on the photo are showing whole lengths are the once which will be covered again with the wales.

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Can't wait to have the stern fascia and the quarter gallery finished to cover the mess of paint on them.  I had painted the inside all black, but after I glued everything in place and tried the lights, I thought that  they would look better wit the inside white, so I had to paint them through the windows. I also planked the floor of the side quarter galleries through the windows.

 

 

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Had to go for a drop strake as the ends were going to be too narrow in this band.

 

 

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Robert

 

 

 

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Hello Robert, 

 

again I have to say that it´s a pleasure to follow your build. When I watch your images it´s like a journey in the past for me :-).

 

If I find the time, I will post some new pictures from my Victory this weekend, than you can see what is still waiting for you.

 

Happy Eastern to you and your family!

 

-heinz- 

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On 4/15/2017 at 11:56 AM, Heinz746 said:

Hello Robert, 

 

again I have to say that it´s a pleasure to follow your build. When I watch your images it´s like a journey in the past for me :-).

 

If I find the time, I will post some new pictures from my Victory this weekend, than you can see what is still waiting for you.

 

Happy Eastern to you and your family!

 

-heinz- 

Thank you Heinz and a belated Happy Easter to you and your family too.  Visited your new post, I don't have words for it, it is a great build.

 

Robert

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Thank you Ian,  and thank you again for the initial suggestions with the filler blocks when I was still hesitant if to do them or not.  I would have regretted  it if I hadn't taken your advise.

 

Robert

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Finally lower part of the hull all covered with the second planking, but still needs more work, sanding, sealing, varnishing... The small gap between the planks has been purposely left so I will fill with a black filler.  Probably now I will continue work on the upper gun deck and continue the upper part of the hull and wales later.

 

A few photos:

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Robert

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Hello Robert,

good work! As always!

For a moment, I actually believed that these were photos of my Victory. It's like a journey into the past for me.

Keep it up!

 

Best wishes and a nice weekend!

 

-Heinz-

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Marvelous planking job!  I went back and forth over these photos just to see again an amazing job. The thread caulking job did well.

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Thank you very much for the likes.  Heinz and Scott thank you for your nice comments.  I am still hesitant if to finish the lower part of the hull in wood or to copper plate.  On one side I think it should be copper plated as that is the actual finish of HMS Victory, on the other hand I prefer it on a wood finish.  If I copper plate all the work taken to run the planks as neat as possible will be a waste to cover with copper plates now.  Any suggestions!!!!

 

Robert

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I had the same thoughts. Will I build her as original as possible? Then I have to cover the hull with copper. 

 

Or do I want to have a wooden model ship, that looks the best I can do and shows my skills?

 

Unfortunately I can not tell you what is wright and what is wrong. I can only show you what I have done. I did not regret it - not even for a second. 

 

Robert, I know you love wood the same as I do. So I am sure you will find the right decision :-)

 

-Heinz-

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If you are going to copper, don't waste the time or energy with going for scale planks. Just grab a pile of bass wood which bends easily and apply it as fast as can. The coppering will take longer then planking at scale. Someone mentioned that it takes close to 4500 or so to get the job done. I see a padded cell in the future after or during coppering.

 

The final ruling-"Your ship, your rules."

 

Regards

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Heinz,

 

I know what you mean,  it is not a question of what is right and what is wrong,  it is a matter of taste.  I have seen models copper plated which are beautiful and others wood finished, both marvellous.  Yours is beautiful.

 

Michael Zemmel

 

That's it Michael,  I made the second planking with the intention of finishing it in wood, so it was much more work to scale and bend the planks to get the best finish I could.  Now to cover everything is such a waste. To get that finish I am already half way to the padded cell, if I start copper plating now, I think I have to finish the Victory in the padded cell.  :default_wallbash:

 

Robert

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Beautifully neat and precise work. such a shame to be adding copper plates to hide it all, What is a shock for me is how big the Caldercraft version is. Just wish now I had the guts to risk spending the cash on a hobby I was dabbling in for the first time with my current build. 

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Nigel,

 

Thank you for your nice comment.  You are most welcome.

 

 

Michael,

 

Thank you for your nice comment as well.  Maybe they are a bit inflated but I try my best!!!!

 

Robert

 

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Fitted the upper gun deck.

 

 

Since I am putting in lights inside the middle gun deck I tried them on before closing with the upper gun deck.  Realised that from the outside, looking through the gun ports a light strip was showing coming underneath the dummy barrel strips, so I fitted some strips behind the dummy barrel strips to barrier the light. Also added some detail next to the inside of the entry ports that can show when the lights are on.

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Beams in place

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Fitted half the deck.  When I tried the deck as a whole peace you have to bend it so much to put it in that I still can’t believe it did not break in two.  You have to trim it and check in place so I decided it was not worth the risk so I split it in two halves with a Stanley knife.  Work was much easier like that.

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Fitted the other half.  Where possible I used nails but where not possible I used supports to hold the deck in place until glue was dry.  On the beams I avoided using nails.

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Just a few places where there were no beams and because I split it in two, some reinforcement was needed.  Glued a piece of thin plywood from underneath.

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Deck ready in place

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Looking through the entry ports.

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Dry fitted one of the cannon carriages, fitted two piece of the deck planks underneath and checked if the cannons are centred in the gun ports.  They seem to be perfect.  There is also a way how you can fine tune the height position of the cannons.  When building the carriages, there is a piece called Quoin (165) which is fitted on the carriage just under the back of the cannon.  Don’t glue this, glue it when you are placing the carriages in place on the deck. By moving this quoin forward or backwards the cannon will tilt up or down.

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Next step is fitting the gun deck inner bulwark gunport pattern.  From what I can see, to get the gun port openings on the inner pattern in line with those of the outer pattern,  a lot of trimming is needed on the lower edge of the inner pattern.  But that is no problem as it will be planked.  The problem would have been if the cannons were not the right height with the gun port opening on the outer pattern.

 

Robert

 

 

 

 

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Gun deck inner bulwark gunport patterns in place. To align the height of the gun ports of the inner pattern with that of the outside pattern, I had to shave off quite a bit from the lower edge of the inner pattern.  I found those small cheap spirit levels quite useful for the job.  Linings for the gunports without lids are ready as well.IMG_0850.thumb.JPG.1f1297ab6be60199bb8f7d0175efd394.JPGIMG_0694.thumb.JPG.b96b51418888fb20d0f9722900c6bd08.JPGIMG_0695.thumb.JPG.856ee0e04b15652fd71128e745125f6e.JPGIMG_0701.thumb.JPG.c1d8bc1d9862d6ac8d66b7cace056382.JPGIMG_0707.thumb.JPG.034e2701da4f63f02c170d244d68c0e9.JPGIMG_0709.thumb.JPG.0a6955d2b8ca3933ee767f2cd9caed0a.JPGIMG_0842.thumb.JPG.36e3361e68048a1a8ac406c9bb5fa9f2.JPG

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Robert

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