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Thanks Eric....I am glad you are having fun with it and got over the initial fear that its going to be complicated and involved.

 

Yes making rope is not very hard to do.  Its really easy.   My ropewalk (or most ropewalks)  will work the same way.  I am not a big fan of the planetary type but these "older"  ......."tried and true"  ropewalk designs will do the trick every time.   It just takes ten minutes each time to make a long piece of perfect rope.  No unwinding bobbins and refilling bobbins every time you want to make a different size/color of rope.   I urge everyone to try and make their own.  You will never buy a pre-made package of rope again.   

 

I call it hi-tech Amish technology!!!  LOL

 

Chuck

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just wanted to share the finished model and case done by a friend of mine.   He painted the barge white below the carved details which looks great and he made that incredible case for it.   A real nice treatment for the royal barge kit if I dare say!!!

 

Well done Peter😄

 

 

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20 hours ago, Chuck said:

I just wanted to share the finished model and case done by a friend of mine.   He painted the barge white below the carved details which looks great and he made that incredible case for it.   A real nice treatment for the royal barge kit if I dare say!!!

 

Well done Peter😄

 

 

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That case is a master presentation of a master buildt kit, its an inspitation 👑

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Just an FYI...the laser cutter has down for a little while.   Waiting on some spare parts to fix the machine.  Hopefully will have it up and running in a couple of days.  Then I will make more ropewalks and laser cut parts.   It was really bad timing to have the air assist go kaput!!!

 

But that will give me time to catch up with making more blocks as I have been sold out of a bunch of sizes for a few weeks.  You guys are still buying them like there's no tomorrow.   

 

In addition I may be able to get much more work done on the Winnie.   I have finally been able to start working on those wonderful deck fittings and getting those deck beams and knees in position.

 

forward bulkhead3.jpgcolumns.jpgstanchions1.jpgstanchions2.jpg

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Thanks....I was actually trying to find a way to offer those columns and also my stair kits....

 

The one thing that is stopping me is figuring out how tall to make them.  Also as far as the stairs go.....how wide?   Every ladder on the Winnie is a different height and a different width.  It makes it very hard to produce them stand alone for everyone's other kits and models.   The columns may not be too difficult but keeping the stairs the historically accurate shape makes it impossible to offer these in standard sizes that will fit everyones models.   So the stairs are sidelined for the moment....and the columns, I just need to think about how tall to make them.  

 

ladder2.jpgladder3.jpgladder4.jpgcolumns.jpg

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2 hours ago, Chuck said:

The one thing that is stopping me is figuring out how tall to make them.  Also as far as the stairs go.....how wide?   Every ladder on the Winnie is a different height and a different width.  It makes it very hard to produce them stand alone for everyone's other kits and models.   The columns may not be too difficult but keeping the stairs the historically accurate shape makes it impossible to offer these in standard sizes that will fit everyones models.   So the stairs are sidelined for the moment....and the columns, I just need to think about how tall to make them.  

 

Can you save settings in your laser cutter?  It would be cool if you could resize the stairs in your cutter the same way photographs can be resized.   Then you'd be able to offer "custom cut to order".  Of course that would be a pain, and you'd need to charge a premium.  However, stairs are such a chore to make, I suspect folks would be willing to pay a premium for them.  Hard to tell.   Same with the columns.  Those are easier to make, but I'd bet people would purchase them if you could cut "on the fly" with your machine.

 

Alan

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No unfortunately is doesnt work like that.   Wishful thinking.  Basically the parts need to be resized in Corel Draw for every iteration.  Which would be endless.  But the columns will work....I can make the square part on each end extra long and folks could cut them to whatever length they need.   

 

The ones pictured are 1/8" square and I would make smaller ones 3/32" square for those who work in 3/16" scale.   They can also be chocked in a drill or lather so the center portion can be rounded off if folks prefer that as well.

 

Chuck

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25 minutes ago, Stuntflyer said:

I really looking forward to seeing the prototype. .

You will see all of the laser cut parts on Thursday when you visit the shop.  I cut them a while ago.   Just havent had the time to assemble it yet.  Its huge....41" long and 13" wide once put together if the parts actually fit.

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Indeed it is.  This one will use a lot of wood.  It may in fact be too expensive and time consuming to mfg and offer it but I will crunch the numbers.  I would of course not offer the glass and just the bits to make the base.  But thats still leaves several hundred dollars per base.  
 

Cases are very very expensive.  I have taken to using a large display cabinet instead that holds many models.  Its cheeper and actually takes up less space.  But those can only be used for smaller models.  A beast like winnie needs to be cased by itself sadly.

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So far, I have built 11 glass cases to house my fleet of ship models.  I always use single strength glass cut to size by a commercial glass shop or our local Ace Hardware.  The last case was finished last August.  It measures 24x 20 x8.  The glass was reasonably inexpensive, about $50.

 

I have more or less standardized on American Black Walnut for the wooden structure.  It finishes easily and is readily available.  I still have enough in my stash to build several more cases.

 

I also have a 2in x4in piece of teak that I brought home years ago from a business trip to Taiwan.  The guy in the back alley woodworking shop cut the 8ft piece into two four foot lengths so that I could check it with the airline. I used one of the lengths to build a case and found it easy to mill and to finish.

 

Roger

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6 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

I always use single strength glass cut to size by a commercial glass shop or our local Ace Hardware.

I used to do the same until I discovered that the local Michael's chain craft store had a picture framing service and they were happy to sell me UV filtering picture frame glass cut to exact sizes. It works great and is actually priced a bit less than the window glass I was buying from the glazier's shop.

 

Yes, cases are very expensive if one expects to buy them ready-made or even in kits. Wood can be expensive, particularly if purchased in small amounts from specialty hardwood yards, but fine wood for modeling can often be had for free if you know where you can find it. I recently pulled four roughly five foot long 1" x 6" pieces of select oak from a dumpster outside an office remodeling job. My last case frame was milled from a couple of old solid walnut bed frame rails I spotted in the wood pile during a trip to the dumps.  My best find to date was a ten foot long two by eight select teak plank that I snagged from the local DIY haul-out boatyard scaffolding plank pile. It's not rated for OSHA scaffolding plank, of course and they don't do woodworking, so they didn't want it and I was more than happy to take it off their hands. It had a lot of dirt and paint splatters on it and looked like nothing special, but that's no problem for me. It's been on my lumber rack for eight or ten years, waiting for a special project it's just right for, next to some Alaska yellow cedar planking offcuts and some cherry short planks, leftovers from a kitchen remodeler. Commercial shops generally buy wood "by the job" and don't keep their offcuts and surplus after the job is done.

 

I'm afraid most serious woodworkers have now accepted the fact that a good bandsaw, jointer, and a thickness planer are necessary companions to a band saw and table saw. Freeing oneself from the tyranny of dimensioned lumber is wonderful if you can pull it off. Keeping an eye out for useful "junked" wood can save you hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars over time. Using a pickup truck as your "daily driver" is also highly recommended. You never know when you're going to get the chance to grab something good.

Edited by Bob Cleek
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Bob,

 

All of my Lumber is non dimensioned, preferably rough cut.  A number of years ago, I answered a newspaper add for lumber.  Among other things, the guy had several pieces of 3in x 8in black walnut that he was selling for mantle pieces.  They were reasonably priced and I bought one.  I’m still cutting pieces from it.

 

I also find a set of 45 year old Sears Craftsman molding  cutters for my table saw to be essential for producing quality moldings. IMHO they work much better than  a router.

 

Roger

Edited by Roger Pellett
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On 4/20/2021 at 6:14 PM, Chuck said:

Thanks....I was actually trying to find a way to offer those columns and also my stair kits....

 

The one thing that is stopping me is figuring out how tall to make them.  Also as far as the stairs go.....how wide?   Every ladder on the Winnie is a different height and a different width.  It makes it very hard to produce them stand alone for everyone's other kits and models.   The columns may not be too difficult but keeping the stairs the historically accurate shape makes it impossible to offer these in standard sizes that will fit everyones models.   So the stairs are sidelined for the moment....and the columns, I just need to think about how tall to make them.  

 

ladder2.jpgladder3.jpgladder4.jpgcolumns.jpg

hi, you can make the top and botten longer , then ti can be cut to length to fit and file it to shape on top and botten.

 

svein erik

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So far....

 

solid Alaskan Yellow Cedar base...with cherry inlays.  There is no finish on it yet.   It took five days to design and build and it uses almost 30 full sheets of 1/4” cedar doubled up to make 1/2” thick sides for the base.  Plus a whole bunch of other sizes.  In addition around ten 1/4” cherry boards and and a few other misc sizes.

 

I like how it came out but theres no way I can mass produce these.  Although almost all the parts are laser cut.  There are four sheets of ply under the finished base as well.  It took a full four maybe five hours to laser cut and etch all the parts for one case.  

 

All told around $300 in wood and materials and $100 for the carvings which have yet to arrive.  
 

I would have to charge way too much.

 

Making cases for ship models is a crazy amount of work.

 

41” x 13”

 

now to get a glass top...LOL

 

I wonder how much that will cost.  

 

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I am not sure yet...just offering the name wouldnt help much.  Its a very specific size and shape.  I may look for someone else to laser cut all the parts so you guys can just buy the whole case as a kit.  With only one laser cutter i couldnt possibly do it.  It just takes too long on such a small laser.  I will look for someone with a few machines and bigger ones.  
 

I will also place the parts templates and plans as a download.  But I didnt take pictures as I built it.  So instructions will be tough.  I may cut a kit for Mike so he can take pics as he is building it.

 

It will be a while either way.  I doubt many would want to pay $450-$500 for this case kit plus shipping though. But I now understand why cases are so expensive.  At least nice ones...and then you guys would still need to get the glass part.

 

 

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