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English Pinnace by BRiddoch - scale 1/2" = 1'

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     Greetings all.  After finishing a few kits it is time to venture into scratch building.  Well, maybe a major kit bash anyway.  I have decided to tackle Chucks English Pinnace using a Swiss Pear lumbering set I was lucky enough to get from Jeff at Hobby Mill before he retired. 

      I will be replacing all the wood in the kit with the exception of the frames.


                      Bob R.


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Hey Bob:  Good start!


I'm thinking of building the Pinnace out of pear also. but I may consider boxwood.  I have a fully equipped woodworker's shop, a scroll saw, thickness sander and a Byrnes saw.  I can mill my own wood.  Do you still have the wood list  of the pieces and dimensions that Jeff supplied you?  Would you be willing to share it for those of us who want to "bash" this kit along with you?  Thanks!

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The wood package from Jeff included the following:



3/64" x 1/"4 x 24" (4)  used for the Floor boards and Aft Platform

1/32" x 1/32" x 24" (2)  for oar lock pins

3/64" x 1/8" x 24" (3) for interior planking

3/32" x 3/32" x 24" (2) for oar handles

1/16" x 5/32" x 24" (3) for oars

3/64" x 1/16" x 24" (6) for panels and in between thwarts

1/16" x 3/32" x 24" (1) for seat back, oar locks, and molding between friezes

1/16" x 1/16" x 24" (4) for stanchions

1/16" x 5/16" x 24" (2) for thwarts and platform

3/64" x 3/16" x 24" (30) for planking and risers

3/64" x 5/32" x 24" (4) unknown



1/8" x 3" x 12" (1) for rudder and stem

1/32" x 3" x 4" (1) for splash guards

1/16" x 3" x 12" (1) for seat back, cockpit trunk, lid, caprails, knees, and step.

3/32" x 3" x 4" (1) unknown



             Bob R.

Edited by BRiddoch
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Using one of Chucks tips, I purchased some 1/16" striping tape (had to order it) and ran it down the center of the false keel.  This left 1/32" on each side giving me a nice clean rabbet.  From there I glued the keel and stem to the false keel.  I can now dry fit the frames. 


      Bob R.









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Bob: good work so far! You use the striping tape as a template and cut the rabbet with an X-Act knife, right? I've used a compass set to 1/32" to mark the rabbet but this seems much more accurate. I've also seen people glue a 1/16"wide strip (1/32" or 3/64" thick) to the false keel, then glue the keel directly to that strip. Creates a rabbet with no need to cut or trim it.

Edited by DocBlake
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Chuck, I am ready to install the first strake but have a quick question first.  Does the strake run flush with the frames?  Seems the first 2 frames are a little high.  If I remember from the longboat, the strake should run natural and then the frames can be trimmed later.


   Bob R.

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