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AndyMech

USS Constitution by AndyMech - FINISHED - Revell - PLASTIC - 1:96

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Andy:

She is looking really beautiful. Nice work on the rigging so far.

 

Russ

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Andy...  thanks for rebuilding your log.   I've used it quite a bit, and without it, my build would be a lot more difficult.  I only discovered today that all the previous data has been lost.  I haven't been able to log in for a while, but figured that was because the site was still being optimized.... MAJOR BUMMER for me to restart my own build log though mine is only 10% the size of yours.

 

Interestingly, about 3 weeks ago (just prior to the new site), I printed your entire build log via pdf (mine too).  Then after the new site came up and everything was still ok, I deleted the pdf's.... S**T!

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Yes, it would have been nice to have the saved copy, but I did find 90% of it on Google Cache (so much searching I got locked out of it for a while).

 

I had all the photos I posted in a saved location, so re-creating it was simply a matter of time. I'm glad to see people are appreciating the build.

 

Thanks to everyone, and now maybe I should get back to work on it - I have the day off work and very few excuses.

 

Andy

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Andy-

 

Thanks for taking the time to re-post this classic.  You're doing a wonderful job on the build and it shows. :)

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Andy-

 

Thanks for taking the time to re-post this classic.  You're doing a wonderful job on the build and it shows. :)

 

Thanks Augie -- I'm following your Syren build (as you may have noticed).  I have the kit on a shelf, but I will finish the Constitution first, and then probably some smaller wood kit before I tackle the Syren.  Your build is quite inspirational to me, so thanks for that.

 

Andy.

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I finished adding the yard supports on all three masts -- only for the lowest yard.

 

post-308-0-33763000-1361214760_thumb.jpg

 

Next was adding the jeers.  I started with the foremast.  The instructions call for the jeer blocks be 3 1/2 inches apart.  I found that 3 inches (for the foremast) was a better distance - maybe 3 1/8, but it allows for a better separation between blocks.

 

See for yourself.

 

post-308-0-20013100-1361214761_thumb.jpg

post-308-0-13892100-1361214762_thumb.jpg

post-308-0-16685200-1361214763_thumb.jpg

 

Next up, the jeers on the mainmast.

 

Andy.

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As promised, the main mast jeers.  I spent the rest of the day today tying blocks to the crosstrees and chainplate ledges in preparation for the halyards.  FYI, for anyone following the Revell instructions, the mizzenmast halyard apparently only goes to the starboard side, and I re-used the same eyebolt used for the backstays.  The other two masts had a free eyebolt just ahead of the backstays.  I hope this is correct.

 

post-308-0-26047200-1361229293_thumb.jpg

 

The mainmast jeer drops and is tied to the railing - there is no pin to attach it for some reason.

post-308-0-37557000-1361229292_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Augie -- I'm following your Syren build (as you may have noticed).  I have the kit on a shelf, but I will finish the Constitution first, and then probably some smaller wood kit before I tackle the Syren.  Your build is quite inspirational to me, so thanks for that.

 

Andy.

That's the great part about MSW ---- everyone's build helps everyone else.

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Wow ... I haven´t been here for a long time - but here are so beautiful Constitution building logs .. GREAT!  This sentence is for all of them!

 

Thank you all for sharing it!

 

 

One question someone of you guys here might know:

 

I believe I saw a building log here weeks ago - and there were etched parts used to optimize the kit. Does anyone know what I am talking about. Is there an etched parts kit for USS Constitution 1/96?

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Wonderful job! you're doing an amazing job on this. I myself have purchased the kit and now am thinking of converting it over to RC. I would like your opinion on it. I would like to keep as much detail on it as possible, including the standing rigging so it can serve double duty as a display/function model. What do you think about this? Thanks

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hello Andy,

 

    followed your log before the crash.......must say,  you've done a great job on her.   I can sympathise with the problems with the decks.  I did this kit a long time ago,  and I've built the Cutty Sark twice.  I also did the C.S.S. Alabama and the U.S.S. United States.   I have the United States kit......I'm going to do it with wood decks....and anything else I can replicate.  I hope to defeat the deck dilemma,  especially after I plank it...LOL!   I look forward in seeing more of what you did through the build process.

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Wonderful job! you're doing an amazing job on this. I myself have purchased the kit and now am thinking of converting it over to RC. I would like your opinion on it. I would like to keep as much detail on it as possible, including the standing rigging so it can serve double duty as a display/function model. What do you think about this? Thanks

 

I don't have much experience in RC models, so I wouldn't have the best ideas on how to convert the Revell model into RC.  If you would like the standing rigging to serve more functionally, I would recommend replacing the pre-formed ratlines and doing your own shrouds and ratlines.  The pre-formed ones don't do much to stabilize the masts and are pretty much ornamental.

 

You also might want to replace masts and yards with wood instead of the bendy plastic, especially the smaller pieces in the upper masts.

 

Andy.

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I'm currently working on step one of the running rigging - halyards and jeers.  The upper halyard is tied down to the deck through what the instructions call the masttop block:

 

post-308-0-17717200-1361640762_thumb.jpg

 

Here's a picture of my masttop (foremast).  What I can't figure out is where to tie the block?  To the railing?  There seems no other hole in the masttop to tie this block.

 

post-308-0-57922900-1361640762_thumb.jpg

 

Andy.

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I honestly forget how I secured that halyard block. It has been 25 years since I built this model. I would normally say to drill a hole through the back edge of the fighting top, jut aft of the railing and secure it there. It could hang out from underneath the top.

 

Russ

Edited by russ

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Thanks Russ. Should this halyard block be inline with the mast or off to the side? The line is eventually secured to the right side of the ship, so should the block also be off to that side?

 

Andy

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I honestly do not know and I am not in a position for a few days where I can look it up. The idea sounds good, but I am not certain.

 

Russ

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Hi Andy,

I'm working on my second Revell Constitution - my first was built when I was 16, 32 years ago. The halyard is supposed to wrap around the middle of the yard, but on the Constitution model, there is, of course the mounting bracket that clips on to the mast, that blocks this. On my first model I wrapped the halyard around the bracket behind the yard. In my current one, what I did is drill a small hole through the bracket, just behind the yard, then I ran the halyard through the hole and around the yard right in the middle. Hope that helps!

Jose Gonzales

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Hi Jose,

 

Thanks for the response - I will take a close look at my yard attachment to see which method I'll use to tie the line there.

 

Once that halyard line goes through the hole in the mast, it's supposed to go through a set of blocks (as the picture on the previous page of this log indicates).  My more burning question is where do I attach the block that appears to be tied to the fighting top (or mast top)?  There's a railing in way and no built-in mounting point.

 

I think I'm tempted to drill a hole in the top just behind the railing so the tied block leans out (as it were) through the railing.  I'm curious to know how you solved that problem?  Also, is that block in-line with the mast or off to the side somewhat?  (A photo might help - hint, hint).

 

Thanks,

 

Andy.

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Yes, I just did that last night. It was difficult, given that so much existing rigging and structure is in the way. You know the square hole in the back of the top, and the rectangular hole where the shrouds go through? I tied the B block between the two holes - took a long piece of thread and tied it around and between the two holes with a knot below the top. Then I pushed both long arms of the thread up through the square hole and pulled so the knot was on the top side of the top. Then I threaded the B block down one of the two thread arms and tied the block down using a pair of long tweezers in each hand. Luckily my clumsy hands did not run into any of the backstays too hard and snap anything off!

Now I've got to do the same thing for the Royal halyard on the other side, then do the same thing on the main and mizzen - even tighter quarters there!

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Thanks for the reply - I will take a look at my tops tomorrow and see how that geometry works out.  I may like that better than drilling a hole - I'm not sure how easy it would be to drill one, and and you noted there are a lot of line in the way.

 

I'm curious about the royal halyards - the Revell instructions don't have that halyard going through blocks.  It seems to me it just drops straight down to pin 6 for the foremast (12 for the mainmast), without going through a block structure like the topgallant halyard does.  Yet, you mention tying a block to the mast top for the royal as well.  (If I can avoid tying a second block there, it sounds good to me!)

 

Thanks again,

 

Andy.

Edited by AndyMech

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Andy she is relaling starting too look awesome with her rigging on.

i am really happy your build log is back because it wil be of great help once i restart my build of her

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Thanks - and I look forward to seeing your build as well.

 

On Tuesday, I got the main mast lower yard halyard done (no photos).  I mis-measured the length of the line that goes through the block and ties to the pinrail, and I cut both left and right to the same incorrect length.  It was too short by a couple of inches, so I used a sheet bend knot to tie an additional length on to allow it to reach the pin.  It's funny, I thought the error would annoy me and I considered removing the line and replacing it with the correct length, but somehow a little flaw like that added some personality to the build.  I would imagine, once the ship is completed, that it will be quite difficult to notice.  I will know it's there.

 

Photos this weekend, I'm sure.

 

Andy.

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Andy:

Splicing was a constant routine on board any ship, so it might look right at home. :)

 

Russ

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I only had one day this weekend to work, but I feel I got a lot done.  I had finished the main mast lower halyard on Tuesday, and today completed the mizzen mast lower halyard.  The mizzen was easier as it was just one side, there was no balancing the left and right sides.

 

Mainmast:

 

post-308-0-71419100-1362351825.jpg

 

Mizzen mast lower halyard:

 

post-308-0-11636000-1362351826.jpg

 

I had some confusion on where to put the blocks on the mast tops for the top gallant halyard, and I ended up drilling a small hole in the top near the railing to tie the block:

 

post-308-0-52454500-1362351826.jpg

 

Next, I was able to rig all three masts top gallant halyards:

 

post-308-0-92018800-1362351826.jpg

post-308-0-32397400-1362351827.jpg

 

 

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You are making good progress. It is coming along well.

 

Russ

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Thanks all,  I go slow, but try to make steady progress.  I have the day off work tomorrow, so may finish the halyards - only the top royal to do, and it has no blocks.  Next up, the sheets and clew lines.  Since all the yards are blocked, I hoping this goes well.  

 

Andy.

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I finished step 1 of the running rigging this morning - the three royal halyards. 

 

Here's a photo of the main mast halyard - these were pretty easy as expected.  I used the small tan thread instead of the medium size as I'm trying to conserve resources and a little variety in the sizes couldn't be a bad thing, I hope.

 

post-308-0-31781300-1362676227.jpg

 

post-308-0-77981800-1362676227.jpg

 

Andy.

 

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