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Anchor Hoy by Maurys - POF Harbor craft c. 1825 -- 1:48 - Finished


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Thanks for all the comments and "likes".  Because of the shape of the rudder post and the axis of rotation, the hole through the transom is different than the keystone shaped hole most of us are familiar with (sic).  It's more of a rugby ball shape.  A bit of geometry, rotating the post in CAD came up with the rough shape.  Text boxes are empty...refer to the center of rotation.  Hole picture exploded about 4x.

 

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Maury

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I reviewed the Rudder Stock Geometry posts and found the string interesting.  I was not familiar with the "plugstock rudder" term.   There is an off-set as the stock passes thru the counter and then goes vertical again.  I've built up the rudder and have a hole in the inner transom bulwarks just larger than the stock.  I'll adjust it as I proceed.  I imagine this area was lined.  I will probably put in a block.

The transom planks have been partially extended up as the bulwarks along the side butt up against them.  See the second picture below with the first of two strakes installed above the spirketing.  Boy, the lens sure shows things I can not see.  Four coats of paint may not be enough.

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Maury

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I'm not able to work on the model this week, so I'm creating the deck planking plan in TurboCAD.  I made sure the outline of the deck matched the drawing .  Then I adjusted the hatch openings and partners on the plan to match what I've made (very little variation).  Next is to measure each side from center line to the waterways (one side is about 2" wider than the other).  I chose 10" planks for the deck, and there is 100" width at dead flat on the port side and 102" on starboard.  The main hatch is the widest item along the center line.  It is 60" wide so six planks at ten inches will be carried all the way fore and aft.  Seven more 10" planks fit between the edge of the hatch coaming and the waterway on port.  The exposed areas will all be on the starboard side so having a few planks at 10.2" won't be a big issue.  

 

Since butt spacing will not be an issue between the hatches and partners, I started from the hatch coaming and worked outward with the following guidelines for the butts:

Twenty foot maximum + / -  plank length.

All joints land on a beam.

No butt joints at the corners of the hatches and partners.

Two planks between a joint on a beam.

Two beams between joints on adjacent planks.

No planks shorter than a span of three beams. (except the six down the center line between the mast partners and the main hatch).

 

So much for theory and it's a good thing these are guidelines and not RULES.

After hours of shifting butts around the last version has:

two planks about 24' long,

no butts at the corners of the hatches and partners (there are 4 - 6 planks terminating at those areas and it seems strength would

   allow no more at those points),

 

Two planks between butts on a beam works for the area between the main hatch and the fore capstan

then everything breaks down when I apply the other guidelines on adjacent beams.  Either there is a joint at the corner of the hatch / partner or there is only one beam between butts on adjacent planks or the plank is too long or too short.   The diagram pasted into MS Paint is too small to see so no picture.   I have to prioritize.  I think two planks between joints on one beam is more important than two beams between joints on a plank.  Narrowing the plank width creates more complications.

Maury

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Planning ahead...The Rigging Plan (source:  Robt. Cairo plan from NRG series), while fairly complete, presents some challenges.

The main shrouds are designed to support the mast where the rigging for the great cat attaches (20' above the deck).  There are no other shrouds shown.  The fore stays (3) are standard.  There is a "running back stay" for both the main and top masts.  Halyards, lifts, sheets, etc. are standard.

 

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Questions arise.  The main shrouds attach inboard at the waterways.  They limit the range of the main boom to about 20 degrees from center.  Would they have been removed while sailing?  Hard to run or broad reach as rigged.

The running stays seem grossly inadequate to support the rig.  They attach to the bulwarks with chain plates and pass over the edge of the top rail where they would bind (no tumblehome on this boat).  There has to be enough off-set to clear the rail so I assume channels need to be installed though not shown on any drawing nor do they appear on the only serious model (Erik Ronnberg) I've seen. 

Comments welcomed!

Maury

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The inner bulwarks are done.

 

 

AH_BulDone1.JPG.ad78df64b0a4b6104b9a7a119151b5c0.JPGAH_BulDone2.JPG.637d840459dd0cf39ea63513736a2267.JPG

 

The partners are not yet glued in place.

 

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I've faired the tops of the inner and outer bulwarks for the main rail.  Not sure whether I put in the deck planking before the rails.  The bow and transom have arched rails so some serious bending is yet to be done.

Maury

 

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I got to tryout my Sherline lathe on serious work for the first time.  There is pawl ring under the capstans.  It is round.  First hint the lathe may be the right tool.  The object was to cut a ring with a channel in it.  Since the capstan covers it the inner portion does not matter.

 

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First I built a carrier jig to hold the piece I'll be working on.  It's just a piece of flat 1/4" stock glued to the end of a dowel.  It will be reusable for the other ring and maybe something else.  I faced it on the lathe to make sure the final piece would not vary in thickness and left it in the chuck.  Then I glued the pattern (approximately) in the center and temporarily tacked and clamped the working piece (1/16" board) to the jig and let it dry overnight.

 

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I blew the first attempt.  I ended up with a chip in the outer portion of the ring.  (no picture).  Higher speed and slower feed corrected the problem on the second try.

 

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The inner section will be covered by the capstan so the finish does not matter.  Big improvement.  It took me twice as much time soaking in iso. and prying it off the jig as it took to set up and cut.

Next come the pawl stops in the channel.  25 Lb. monofilament line cut into little pieces and (CA) glued in place.

 

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Now it all gets painted "iron black" so it looks like metal and a lot of the detail disappears.

Maury

 

 

 

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I started the deck planking.  I experimented with holly and box.  The holly was too soft and the finish came out blotchy.  First task was several tests of color and tone.  Planks were cut to 2.5" x 10" (full size) on the saw and thickness sander and then treated with a Model Shipways black walnut stain (water based).  Two coats was enough for now.  The first plank next to the main hatch was the starting point.  Both ends were set equidistant from the center line and abutted to the hatch.  Planks will be parallel out to the side.  Tapering will be done on the final strake(s).

 

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Following the planking plan for where joints fall, I started moving out towards the sides.  The edges of the planks are rubbed with a soft pencil to simulate caulking.  The starboard side will have sections left off for exposure of the gears, water tank and great cat.  An advantage of me making all the beams paired from two 6x pieces is I have a center point on each beam for landing joints.  I'm experimenting with simulated plugs rather than treenails for the deck planks.  The plugs will be tapped in once decking is complete.    I'm using thin hypodermic tubing to make the outline of the plug.  Highlighting will be done with either black leather polish or India ink.  Subtle, but not too much so.  

 

AH_DeckPlanking2.JPG.a359ba6bc5d49c692f844b8153237c95.JPG

 

Maury

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A bunch of progress over the weekend.  The deck planking was extended to the center-line, then scraped even.  It's surprising how much variation in installed planks there was even though they were all thicknessed at once.

 

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I built up the Elm Tree Pumps...standard design from either Echo or Cheerful plans.

 

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One of the arms needs some straightening out a bit.  Once the handle is in, it will hold just fine.  The pump tubes are <1' (octagonal) (<1/4") and stand about 3.5' above the deck.   Not shown are the exit tubes (3/32" brass tubing) or the plunger rod.  Reinforcing bands are black paper painted "Iron Black".  The handles will be shortened a bit.

Maury

 

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The deck planking is installed and scraped.  It gets another coat or two of stain.  I'll see how I like the mottled look as I move along.  The finish is quite different on boards that were scraped vs. those just sanded. 

A lot of masking to do to prevent bleeding into beams or bitts, etc. before I apply any more stain.

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AH_DecksDone2.JPG.4eaf7593bf9c74f9026a094efe2b0ccc.JPG

Maury

 

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Thanks for all the "Likes" and especially the comments.  The deck planking has been re-stained. 

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The variation in color is a result of having scraped the planks earlier, then staining over them.  There were some planks that were still "too light" so I just stained over them again to bring the variation to how I wanted it.  Brush it on and wipe off right away.  I went through a dozen Q-tips.  Personal choice.  The masking tape is Tamiya, well burnished.  The joint between the planking and the waterway (barely visible) is caulked with Ebony Minwax putty and rubbed off.  A few touch-ups are needed on the black paint on the waterway.

Maury

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  • 2 weeks later...

Work on the stanchions...There are 18 stanchions on each side, 7-1/4" square and 11 -1/2" tall (between the two rails).  First the long piece was cut on the table saw, finish-sanded to the proper sides then chopped off using a sled on the table saw.  Final sizing length was done on the "shooting board" sander.  Each has a tenon, top and bottom.  I made a jig for the mill, three sides rigid to the size of the stanchion, last side open.

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The mill was setup with the center of the stanchion centered.  The long piece sticking down holds the stanchion firmly in the jig while being drilled.  I bored from both ends to make sure centers matched.

Tenons were made using bamboo and the Byrnes Draw Plate,  inserted through the stanchion with a dab of glue and wiped off.

Temporary installation shown below.

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The vertical corners will get sanded off and the pieces painted black.

Maury

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I test fit the upper rail.  It had to be done with stanchions in the upper rail then fit to the main.  When I get around to a permanent install, the glue will have to be S L O W drying.  Ed Tosti mentioned that white glue has less rigidity / brittleness.  That may be the way to go.

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AH_TestRail2.JPG.679fe442cada9533ccd3d60e9a2ab409.JPG

Maury

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The upper rail continues over the bow section.  A piece was marked and roughly cut to shape.  The scarf joint was started on the long piece (all those aligned tenon holes).  After it was cut and finished, the two pieces were put in place and the mating shape was marked on the curved piece and cut.AH_RailScarf2.thumb.JPG.bc6ebdd28bcaa383a9e83476ee63c0f1.JPG

Both pieces' width needs thinning a bit before painting.  That will obscure the joint for now.

Maury

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