Anchor Hoy by Maurys - POF Harbor craft c. 1825 -- 1:48 - Finished

[druxey]

That looks much more plausible, but it might even be better if the floors and first futtocks were shortened a bit.

[Maury S]

I can do that!  Thanks.  I'm sure there is some kind of formula for the length of the pieces.  I can cut back the lower pieces and lengthen the tops and 3rd futtocks.  I really appreciate the input!!!

M

[Maury S]

Thanks again for all the input and the "likes".  One more attempt for review.  I've shortened the floors and first futtocks a bit and lengthened the other pieces and it seems to make more sense.  Once satisfied with the general proportions, I can then lay out new futtock lines on the body plan and proceed to the remaining square frames.  One step at a time.  On subsequent frames (every other one) the top extends about 20" higher to support bulwarks and the top rails.

Maury

[druxey]

That looks very nice now, Maury. I think you'll be glad to have made those revisions. Now you need to figure out the lines of joints on the body plan.

[Maury S]

The Futtock Lines on the body plan are drawn across both sides and "look fair".   You should be able to click on the picture to enlarge.  The lines appear as purple so they don't get confused with other lines.  Next I'll move fore and aft repeating the lofting process for each frame, checking the starting points by referring back to the body plan.  Once erected the "line" of all the futtock joints on the frames should appear as a nice faired image.

Maury

Edited April 5, 2016 by Maurys

[druxey]

Hmm.... If I may make another suggestion: at midships, the lines of the joints shouldl be spaced apart about equally. The uppermost line should move down so that it is just below the wale. Then I think you are gold.

[Maury S]

I'm always open to and appreciate the suggestions.  There is such a deep well of info. on this forum that seems almost impossible to find elsewhere.

Maury

[Maury S]

Lots of time lofting frames over the last  week.  Very repetitive.  Plenty of goofs and re-dos along the way.

Each frame will be printed (3x) on 8 1/2 x 11 sheet.  I've completed lofting all but the fore-most and aft 2.  Slightly different sequence for the half-frames.  I'm not sure I'm going to cant the front two and aft one.  We'll see.

Thanks again for all the comments and help with the size and positions of the futtocks.

Maury

[druxey]

Lots of work, Maury. However, now I see it, I'd get rid of those short little top timbers entirely. It's a) unlikely the vessel was built that way and it will save you a ton of work!

[Maury S]

Thanks for the guidance.  I was going to go back and re-do the top timbers.  This exercise is certainly giving be a better idea of the construction process.  Attached is a recent pic. of the aft-most frame.  I inserted the arc of the wing transom (magenta line) and it lines up where it should.  Back to the frame plans to work on the little tops.  I had no other pressing things to do this weekend anyhow.

Maury

[Maury S]

Re-doing the tops, I realized I need to correlate the levels of the filler transoms on the keel plan with frame 16.  Involved moving the FTs around a bit to fit to the frame.  While the Wing transom is arched, there is no need to do so on the fillers.  Everything's connected...

Maury

[Maury S]

After lining up the large capstan gear on the frame plan, it was obvious the drawings by Grice were done with some artistic license.  It clearly shows on the profile that the large gear is approx. 16' diameter.  Problem is the inside of the frames at that location and height above the keel are about 15'.  I downsized the gear to 14' (1/8th reduction) to allow for planking and re-located the capstans to fit.

Water tank:  the description is clear that the water tank is 26' - 9" long  (from about dead flat aft to frame 12) but nothing about the width.  The height is limited by the cabinet that protects the gears.   The inside frame sizes are the limitation.  See the pic. below as a possible shape.  That size is about 500+ cubic ft. or approx. 3,750 - 4,000 gallons.  Anyone have a better idea?  Narrower?  As far as the floor and walls of the tank go, I assume they are caulked wood planking.  Could there have been a metal lining?  Since it might have been drinking water (?), I doubt it was tar coated, but who knows.

Maury

[druxey]

I wonder if the tank was that wide. If it was not completely filled, water sloshing across from side to side would make the hoy unstable. As for lining, perhaps it was sheet zinc at this time period?

[Maury S]

Druxey,

I think you are correct about the width.  If I square-up the sides at the fore and aft ends, it becomes about 11.25' wide near the mast (at Fr. 00) and about 4' wide at frame 12 making it a very long isosceles trapezoid. There is a 3' square well in the middle of the tank protecting the axle and supports for the large gear that takes up a good amount of space / volume, but the Grice drawings (for what they're worth anymore) clearly show the tank going back to the aft most capstan.  With this revision, most of the water would be near midships and less possibility of sloshing.   Also, that construction would not use the interior planking as part of the tank, which makes sense because the planking is structural.  As to the lining, zinc was widely available at the time and seems plausible.  Better than lead, but they may not have understood that at the time.  There is nothing in the various sources of Harbor Craft and Water Hoys that I have that indicate the linings.  Probably easy to "model" as well.  Thanks again for all the comments.

Maury

 

[druxey]

Seems like a more workable solution, both from a stability and ease of construction perspective.

[Maury S]

I worked on the deck plan laying out beam placement, partners, capstans, bitts, hatches, etc.

All the knees are the same profile., just mirrored.  The bowsprit is removable so it doesn't get in the way of the operation of the great anchor cat.  The inboard end is fastened with a pin through the bitts.

Maury

[druxey]

If I may comment again, Maurys, those lodging knees look rather 'chunky'. Check out photos of contemporary models, and you'll see that the athwartship arms are narrower.

[jbshan]

What about iron for the tank?  Seems I read something about that material being used in later ships in lieu of barrels.

[Maury S]

Thanks for all the likes and especially the input on the design.  I wouldn't be able to do this without all this input.

Maury

[Maury S]

Here is the revised Knee plan...much improved.  Thanks Druxey.

Maury

[druxey]

Much better, Maury!

[Maury S]

I took the TurboCad file to the printer to get a piece large enough to past on the building board.  Many attempts and re-tries and even specifying  printing the file as 1/4" = 1', the scale was off by about 5%.  They apparently  still convert to pdf before sending to the printer.  I'm better off printing directly from my app to 8 1/2 x 11 and doing a careful cut and paste for the few images longer than 10 - 11".  Measure two - three times before cutting applies to reading scale plans. 

Maury

[druxey]

Ah, yes. Th aggro of printers and scaling! My empathy on that, Maury.

[captainbob]

Yes, I always print my own.

 

Bob

[mtaylor]

What the others said about printing and even scanning.  If you can find one locally to use/borrow/rent what ever, the HP Deskjet 9800 will take 11 X 17 paper.

[Nirvana]

Maury and all,

I am also looking into a "new printer" - as my cat by the name Tigger used the tray extension of my HP OfficeJet 6700 to launch himself to the windowsill.

That resulted with a printer doing a 390 crashing down on the floor. Which resulted with - no more printing.

When I looked into the "9800" I found it discontinued.

Considering since that color laser printer are available at low prices and with the usage of ink cost I am considering laser.

Sorry Maury, I prefer talking ships and your Anchor Hoy looks so nice, just like your Emma C. Berry.

[Maury S]

Just an update on the sources for scantlings...There are no documents that I can find that specify most of the measurements like we get from Steele or the Shipbuilders Repository (S.R.) that apply to harbor craft.  I've used other contemporary boats where bits and pieces can be put together, and looking at Scantlings of R.N Ships (Yedlinsky) ( which is a combination of Steele and S.R.), I've come to what I think are reasonable conclusions for smaller boats.  It's not light in construction as a fishing boat might be, but heavy enough because of the nature of the job of handling huge anchors and moving around and about much larger ships.

Maury

[Maury S]

Problem!  While measuring twice, I was making sure how much width difference a glue line would make by measuring some 1/8" scrap and gluing them together.  Before putting on the glue, here's what I came up with:  1 & 1 makes 1.95.  My trusty caliper is no longer trust worthy!  I reset to zero each time and repeated the test three times.  Cheap tool?  Perhaps.

Maury

 

[Nirvana]

Yepp, cheap tool it may be. My 25 dollar version is very inaccurate. Got a more expensive last year but doesn't do fractions. Hmm, Amazon.... Time to search.

[Mike Y]

Vernier calipers never lie.. Never trusted that cheap electrical ones, with a two-cent parts they can't be trustworthy.

And proper proffessional calipers cost a fortune.