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HMS Thorn by Kevin Kenny - Swan class 1:48 scale - David Antscherl practium


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  • 2 weeks later...

Nice job Kevin. That’s a particularly difficult part of the model. Might be worthwhile to mock up the stern lights to make sure each of the spaces are symmetrical. I had an issue here that came back to bite me later.

 

Treating for termites is not something most of us have to worry about!

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I agree with Greg, Kevin: the port side outer timber appears to be (in the photo at least) too vertical. This throws the spacing of the inner timbers and will affect the stern gallery lights. Best check this before you commit to further construction.

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That Greg guy sounds like a pain in the ****! He (I) made a similar error and had to massage my stern lights into the proper locations by filing the counter timbers later on. Not ideal! 

 

Your new plan is the way to go. Do not precut the mortises in the transom until it is fit. Then measure the distance between the outer counter timbers at their extreme upper inner tips as well as their distance across the wing transom. Compare to David's plan. If all is to spec then you can cut your mortises according to plan after establishing the centerline on the transom. If one or the other distance is off then you will have massage the transom mortises to insure that all recesses for the lights are symmetrical. Make sure tot use the Elevation of Counter Timbers (chapter 7.1) illustration as a reference for those distances.

 

Stay the course Kevin. This is tough stuff!

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The error was on the port stern end that had come in too much. I have since sanded it down so both ends are now equi distance. Ill take a breath. Remake the transom piece. Establish the center line and then cut the mortises.  Yea, that Greg fella is a pain. Thank goodness. This would have been horrible to fix later on. Thanks. K

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Posted (edited)

I fixed the YouTube problem. Seems it made a change to key setting on its own. Not sure how that happened but I have corrected the feed.

Back to the correction on the stern, I will have completed reinstalling the stern this evening. This time it is PERFECT. thank goodness. The inners are installed. once the glue dries I will instal the  middle counter timbers.

 

 

Edited by Kevin Kenny
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The problem was also on the starboard end which was out to much.  After getting the port end sorted i beefed  up  the support on the port side by adding a stiffener, then used a clamp to pull  in the starboard end to the correct position on the plan, then i took out the blow dryer and heated the starboard end back into the correct position based on the plan. After it cooled, it held its position. Leaving the clamp in place i restuck the  stern. It worked. Thank you Greg. Please continue to keep an eye on the Thorn. 

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Sometimes the aft upper end of a framed hull like that can distort before being tied together with all the other framing, beams and knees. My first model had that issue as the upper works were only in frame for some years. I actually needed to bury tie rods under the quarter deck beams to pull the topsides into spec'd width!

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The honesty in your build Kevin is really inspiring mate - thanks for sharing such a fantastic build 👍  I could see in your video just how disappointed you were but you bounced back and got it all back on track.  That takes real determination which I can only admire.

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Great fix Kevin! Enjoy your holiday in T&T. You can go with a clear conscience now. Two observations:

 

Part of the difficulty in building a fully framed model for the first time  is that it is a learning process. We inevitably make mistakes early one due to inexperience with the techniques that come back to bite us later. Knowing how to fix them is part of the learning process.

 

I believe your use of the heat gun on the aft frames does not bend them so much as to soften the glue. After removing the heat the glue resets in it's new position. Check the centerline again after your time away from the shop to make sure it is still to spec. If it has drifted slightly to starboard again you may need to place a truss rod as Druxey did in an inconspicuous location. 

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I will do as you suggest  Greg but I have been bending wood this way for some years now with little or no spring back. Most wood contains moisture in it. Even dried wood. Here in the tropics there is a great deal of moisture in dried wood as compared to very little if you lived in a desert. My experience has shown me that it’s of no benefit to wet or steam wood because of the relative thickness of the wood we use. The heat gun works wonders and almost 99,999% of the pieces I have bent hold their shape. I’ll be away for two weeks and will check it when I return.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Excellent video as always!

 

However you gave me a fright having your fingers that close to the cutting blade!

Might I suggest you consider a small piece of wood with a lip on it to hold the item down and will allow you to push the item to to fence at the same time.  I put a dowel handle extension (goes 90° to the fence) on my tool.

 

I almost lost a finger when the wood I was cutting flipped over and pulled my hand into the blade. Now my hands never get near the blade.

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Allan I actually have a feather board but it only works with absolutely square stock. it was not as close as it looks. I always end up with a large piece at the end because of the risk of cutting my finger. I keep the end pieces and if I need additional stock I do use a piece of wood to push it close to the fence. 

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One can never have too many saws.  I have 2 Preacs, a Proxxon, a Byrnes, a Dremel and something that I bought when I was just starting.

 

I just recently finished watching all of your HMS Thorn videos over a 3-4 month period.  Totally delightful and very educational. I have almost finished the HMS Granada videos.  I did buy a Turbo Carver and managed to find a Vandalay Tree Nail Maker (not made any more). 

Keep up the great work.  I am learning a lot.

 Kent

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