Jump to content
paulb

HMS Victory by paulb - Caldercraft - 1:72

Recommended Posts

Thanks Graham and Heinz, it's a pleasure.

Time for an update of the Poop Deck.

Time-consuming work, but fun doing it.

 

First I spent some time figuring out what the flag locker looks like. Fortunately "HMS Victory, 1765-1812 (first rate ship of the line) Owners' Workshop Manual by Peter Goodwin, has many nice pictures, one of them showing the locker:

clocker

I like the Roman numbers, probably indicating where the signal flags were supposed to be stored. They used the Popham signal flags, each flag signifying a number from 0-9. 

Another feature is the covering of 4 holes, where the outer transom knees appear.

 

This is my version of the locker, flags will follow:

 

cDSC_4484 (2)cDSC_4480 (2)

The overview of the Poop Deck shows a few modifications from the manual:

- the timberheads (the ones that stick out) should be round, rather than square, and should have a sheave.

 

timberhead

- in between the inner transom knees, at the bottom, there should be an extra piece of timber, holding the flag mast. 

- the outer edge of the Poop is constructed in a certain way, which is not very clear from the manual:

 

cDSC_3091 (2)

This is the original. The edge of the Poop runs straight, but the moulding runs from the quarter round edge aft and upwards to meet the Poop edge behind the deadeyes.

I tried to (sort of) copy this structure:

 

cDSC_4485 (2)cDSC_4486 (2)

Next: the skylight. Contrary to the manual, the skylight has a rounded roof, which follows the curve of the deck: 

 

poopskylight

As you can see I added 2x2 sheaves in the Mizzen Topsail Sheet Bitts. This required 2 newly made bitts from scratch, as the original ones were too thin to accommodate the sheaves.

 

Then the fire bucket assembly. The Poop Deck Barricade Rail follows the curve of the deck. 

I followed the suggestion of Gil Middleton and first glued the buckets to the decorative beam. The beam provided by Caldercraft is hardly decorative, and is too short (it fits between the Poop Ladders).

 

Originally the beam runs along the whole Poop plank sheer, as one can see here:

cDSC_2934 (2)beam

I know, it is risky to compare the original ships with macro's of the model. Please ignore the dust.

 

The buckets were made brownish with Krick Brass Brown fluid. In some pictures on the internet the buckets are brown, in others black.

I used decals to put the King George Monogram on the buckets. The yellow was completely transparent on the decal, so I put a bit of yellow paint on the bucket, and then put on the decal.

 

cDSC_4487 (2)buckets

For the fire bucket handle I used two brass eyelets and 0,25mm black rope.

 

Finally I glued the Poop Ladder Assembly in position.

 

cDSC_4486 (2)

Next chapter is the Stern Fascia.

Edited by paulb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

I was not happy with the clumsy skylight which came with the kit, and so weren't some of my Dutch forum friends.

Decided to make one from scratch.

I made a small cage from 3x3 and 2x3 walnut. On top strips of 0,5x3mm.

The window frames I made from styrene, which I painted black, the skirting are styrene as well, painted brownish.

 

The window frames on top I made from photo-etch scrap material.

 

cDSC_4500 (2)

 

cDSC_4498

 

And some merciless macros.

 

cDSC_4495

 

cDSC_4496

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stern Fascia

 

Thanks for the nice comments.

Later than expected an update,Rich.

 

I finished the work on the Stern Fascia. Lots of details, especially the trophy of arms.

 

Let's start at the beginning: fitting the window frames.

I followed the suggestion of Gil Middleton: "Placing the windows from behind (opposite from instructions) gave much better definition to windows."

Therefore I cut out the rabbets at the back of the sheet (the non-exposed side):

[IMG]

[IMG]

The result:

[IMG]

[IMG]

Global painting:

[IMG]

And painting the loose ornaments


[IMG]

and gluing them:

[IMG]

Next: painting of the Trophy of Arms : roughly the black and white:

[IMG]

and more detailing

[IMG]

and gluing:

[IMG]

The black rectangles between the window frames are cut from styrene strips and painted black. This gives well defined edges.

I decided to copy the HMS Victory as good as possible, so I included the striped black/yellow pattern on the sides of the stern fascia

[IMG]

I used 0,5mm styrene strips, and painted their sides in the right colour:

[IMG]

to get this effect:

[IMG]

The end result: 

[IMG]

[IMG]

[IMG]

About some details: some edges above and below the baluster patterns have been thickened with quarter round strips. This gave the whole thing a bit more body.
Additionally I included 4 eyelet below the baluster patterns. You see them on the present HMS Vistory.

Next project: the quarter galleries

Edited by paulb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quarter Galleries

 

The quarter galleries indeed. And I thought the bow was difficult...

I started with the starboard gallery. It was only now that I realized the lower three window frames were sloping up towards the stern.

 

cDSC_4638 (2)

After doubting for a long time I decided to cut out the lower windows, and refit them, starting on the port side.

 

cDSC_4627 (2) cDSC_4628 (2)

And refit this panel and redo the strips and paintwork 

 

cDSC_4635 cDSC_4631 cDSC_4637

 

Now the same process on starboard.

 

The gallery on starboard has also been changed

 

[IMG]

 

Edited by paulb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi paul,

 

just discovered your build log - very impressed - and having just completed the diana am about to start on the caldercraft victory. question about the stern fascia. you built the entire piece on your work table and then glued it onto the stern?

 

thanks,

mort

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi paul,

 

i have a question if you can recall. on 3/23/16 post #2 are parts # 105 and 106 the stern inner and outer extensions even with the ends of the gunport patterns #270 etc? they appear to be and I would think they would be.

 

thanks,

mort

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HI Mort,

I'm glad you like my build. Unfortunately I can't find yours on MSW. Would like to see it.

About the stern: yes, the stern fascia has 2 blades, the first one is mounted quite early in the process.

The outer fascia I prepared completely on my work top, and then glued it onto the inner one, but I added some styrene strips to mimic the striped pattern on the sides.

If I understand your 2nd question correctly: yes, the rear edge of parts 105 and 106 are flush with the gun port patterns. In that way the inner stern fascia remains straight (as does the outer one).

I hope this answers your questions.

Good luck with your Victory project!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

perfect, great thank you.  did not do a build log for the diana. if you send me your email in a pm I will be happy to send you some.

 

thanks very much,

mort

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

stern gallery looks very different with see through glazing, where as i used PVA Glue

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hull details

 

Next are the side entry, with steps, the fenders and chesstrees.
The painting of the side entry port was a nice painting job. I covered the passage with walnut.
The steps were somewhat of a hassle. It was only now that I found out that the lower gunport pattern was placed too far towards the stern, No idea how that happened. Anyway, I had to shorten the steps to make them fit nicely.
Another problem was the distance between steps. In order to get the right step near the side entry I had to make the distances of the lower steps a bit bigger than the upper steps. Unfortunately the elm tree pump tube lining was not in the black section.

[IMG]

[IMG]

[IMG]

Also the fenders can be seen here.

The chesstrees serve as a protection of the hull when lowering the anchor. In the Caldercraft kit it is curved on the outside in order to follow the curve of the hull. Both McKay and in the original Victory the outside is straight, so that's what I did. Additionally I noticed that in McKay and in the manual the chesstree butts up against the underside of the waist capping rail, unlike the situation on the original Victory. I decided to follow McKay.

[IMG]

I included a sheave to accommodate the tack.

[IMG]

[IMG]

[IMG]

Next: the port side 

Edited by paulb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to make a correction, following some discussion on Kevin’s log. 

The chesstree has nothing to do with lowering the anchor but has a sheave for the main sail tack, which then passes through a sheave in the hull, and then to a giant cleat on the gun deck. 

Apparently the forces on this tack were enormous, and the chesstree was therefore very heavy. Fortunately I have included all the appropriate sheaves😅

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi paul,

 

the hull steps I think look fine. the entry port is nicely done. where did you get the sheve.

keep up the great work,

mort

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Mort.

I bought the sheaves on-line in Holland: but I guess you can find them in any good shop for ship modelling.

 

Sheaves

A small addition regarding the chesstree: I found this picture on a Dutch ship modelling forum. It confirms what Frankie mentioned: the chesstree is mainly, or purely, a fairlead for the Tacks (chesstree is halsklamp in Dutch, eeuw means century).

 

 

halsklamp

 

Edited by paulb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A lovely build Paul.  I shall keep referring back to it as I get back to work on my own Victory build after a few years off!  Thanks!

 

Patrick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I so hope someone reads this.

Name is Harry.

New at all this.

Please let me know the correct way to post any questions I may have on a Caldercraft build of HMS Victory.

Essentially just started and have completed the 1st planking, filled, sanded, and smooth.

Do I really have to install walnut over the 1st planking if I intend to apply the copper plates?

Or, does the 2nd planking begin where the 1st ends and proceed upward.

Confused, and would appreciate guidance.

I can't really tell from the excellent pictures whether it's 2nd planking over the 1st or if the first was just stained to match.

Thanks in advance.

Harry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should really start your own build log where folks can see photos of your progress and comment on any questions you might have.  Be sure to read the topic on how to start one of your own.  That is the best and easiest way .  Welcome to the forum.

 

See here...

 

 

Chuck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...