Lady Nelson by daveward - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64 Scale - First wooden ship build

[GuntherMT]

Yea, on the AVS I just used a gunport edge to start my planking pattern, and then maintained the pattern and ignored where they fell after that just to keep it simple since it was my first planking of a ship with gunports at all.  I think I did some testing to see if one starting point in particular made it better or not by using a ruler, since the shift pattern I used was an easy 1" between the points where butts would fall, and the AVS only has 4 gunports, so I just aligned a 1" mark with both sides of each gunport and looked for the starting point that would give the least amount of overlap points with the ports.

[daveward]

Dave I will delete this post once Brian weighs in if you want me to. 

 

No worries, Seventynet!  I'm glad that my log can serve as a place for people to supplement their knowledge of model ship-building.  It was educational for me, as well!

[daveward]

I'm finally back to making some progress on the Lady Nelson, so I thought I'd post an update.  Last night, I finished the port side bow filler blocks.  These ones went much quicker, as I am more comfortable with my little technique for creating these blocks.  I started off with the third bulkhead space from the stem, creating my stacks of balsa:

 

 

Next, I gave it a rough sanding until it was fairly close to the edges of the bulkheads:

 

 

 

The last step was making sure the block was symmetrical with the starboard side block:

 

 

 

Next, I worked on the space closest to the stem (again, there was really no reason to skip the middle space -- I just did it because I felt like it!):

 

 

Again, I made sure it was fairly symmetrical with the starboard side:

 

 

Finally, I created the last bow filler block and sanded it down.  When I was done, I gave both sides a better sanding with 400 grit sandpaper until they were mostly flush with the bulkheads and symmetrical.  Here are the results:

 

 

 

 

 

So, she's starting to look more and more like a ship!  In total, I have spent 58 hours on this project.  I will try to finish the port side stern filler block tonight.  After that, I will move on to the first layer of planking, which I will be doing in scale lengths, for practice (and to make the spiling a little easier).  My electric plank bender should be arriving any day now, so the timing is perfect.  I'll keep you guys posted!  

Edited April 26, 2016 by daveward

[Seventynet]

Dave, very nice step by step review. Thanks for sharing. Just my two cents, and really only that, but you may want to reconsider scale length planks for your first planking. It will just present an additional challenge of the plank butts for those bulkheads that don't have filler blocks. Of course you could supplement the bulkheads that present those challenges with small appendages to join the butts, but you will still get a better curve if you use full planks. I really like your work.

Best, Ian

[daveward]

Thanks, Ian!  I am still not completely sure about whether I want to try scale plank lengths for the first layer.  In practice spiling runs, I have found it very difficult to get an accurate curvature at the point where the bow section meets the mid-ship section.  My spiled plank always seems to want to curve down and away from the edge of the bulwark at this point.  It might be that the tape is simply not sitting properly at this point, but it has happened just about every time I've practiced with it.  Cutting a longer plank would likely only exacerbate this problem, which is why I was leaning toward using shorter scale plank lengths.  I will likely try a full-length plank and see how it goes before making my decision.  

 

Anyway, the shaping of the last three stern filler blocks was a lot easier than I thought it would be!  I took a few pictures to document the process, even though everyone already knows how I do it.  Here's the shaped aft block:

 

 

And here is the next block, properly curved and fitted:

 

 

 

 

Here are the layers of balsa in the remaining space between the bulkheads:

 

 

And here are the results, displaying what I believe to be decent symmetry:

 

 

 

 

 

The process only took me about 3 hours, which brings me to a total of 61 hours spent on this project thus far.  I am hoping to find my electric plank bender in the mailbox today, so hopefully I can get started with my spiled planks tonight.  She's looking better and better, and I can't wait to see her with that first layer of planking on her hull! 

[Seventynet]

Dave I completely understand about what you are saying. My solution, as you can see clearly from my first planking attempt on my Victory, was to taper and edge bend but mostly I let the planks go exactly where they wanted and used drop planks. I didn't do any spiling for my first planking (that I can remember anyway). Since this was my very first planking attempt I didn't want to try anything so "advanced" as spiling. But I achieved a very good surface to work on and that made spiling easy (to the extent that the stock I had allowed me to do it). Just some thoughts and it doesn't mean that you couldn't achieve a better result with scale lengths for first planking.

 

Best, Ian

Edited April 27, 2016 by Seventynet

[GuntherMT]

If you are using a soft wood like basswood for the first planking, don't be afraid to use a heat gun (or a blow dryer) and just edge bend them.  The kit planks should edge bend just fine.

 

For where edge bending won't get it done, especially for a first planking, drop planks and stealers are not a sin.  

[DocBlake]

Very nice job, especially for a first time modeler.  Your blocking and hull fairing look to be right on.  The planking will go very smoothly.  Keep it up!

[Elijah]

Nice blocks! I look forward to your planking!

[daveward]

Thanks for the kind words, guys!  It has taken me a bit of time to post this update, as I've been a little busy lately.  I started the planking process over the weekend, so the work I'm about to show you took place on Saturday.  I did not get as many pictures of the actual spiling process as I would have liked, so perhaps I can document this procedure a little better next time.  For this first layer, I decided to use a single plank per row instead of going with scale plank lengths, as I felt that it might provide a smoother surface for the second layer (which will be done in scale lengths).  Anyway, I began by laying my painter's tape down along the curve of the bulkheads and over the lower edge of the bulwark.  Using the edge of my pencil, I marked the bulwark's edge.  I also marked the positions of each bulkhead edge.  Then, I placed the tape down on a series of three index cards:

 

 

Using my tick strips, I mark the width of the plank at the bulkhead positions.  Then, I use my ship's curve to draw the other edge of the spiled plank.  Next, I cut the shape of the spiled plank out of the index card material:

 

 

I lay the index card plank along the hull to check the fit, and if I'm satisfied with it, I trace around the pattern on my sheet of German lime and carefully cut it out with my X-Acto blade (this results in a slightly wider plank that I can trim to fit):

 

 

I make sure to leave some extra material at the bow and stern ends of the plank, which is trimmed off later.  Once the plank has been cut out from the sheet, I use my sanding stick to smooth the edges and take off a little material at a time, performing multiple test fittings, until it has the proper width at each bulkhead position.  This is the most time-consuming part of the spiling process.  When I'm satisfied with the fit and the shape of the plank, it's time to bend it.  

 

My method for bending the planks is very simple (I have yet to use the plank bender since the lime planks bend so easily).  I just run the plank under the faucet in my bathtub for about a minute or two, making sure the water is as hot as I can get it.  While the plank is under the flowing water, I gently press on it with my fingers, gradually forming an inward bend at the bow end and an outward twist in the stern end.  The spiled plank, which curves downward at the bow, naturally wants to assume the inwardly bent shape, and the wider stern end twists easily.  Thus far, I have found no need to soak the plank for a long period of time or apply any further heat.  After maybe 2 minutes (at most), I pat the plank dry with a towel and give it a test fitting on the ship.  

 

I adhere the plank to the bulkheads and filler blocks with CA glue, as it dries quickly enough for me to attach the plank while it is still quite flexible, and it is strong enough to hold the last-glued section of the plank in place while I incorporate small corrective bends in the plank to produce a better fit.  I start at the bow, making sure the edge of the plank is butted up against the stem and flush (it is at this point that I usually perform the final trimming of the stem end of the plank, to give it the right angle against the stem).  I glue this portion in place, allowing the glue to cure.  Then, I move on to the next section, making sure that the plank is sitting as flush and snug as possible.  I continue to glue each section and let it cure (which takes only seconds) all the way to the stern/transom.  I leave the overhanging portion of the stern end of the plank until the glue is completely dry, then trim it off so that the plank is flush with the transom (the transom is planked with only the second layer of planking, and this layer is meant to lay on top of the edges of the first-layer hull planks).  When that is done, I give the plank a light sanding to ensure that any edges are smooth and flush.  I also run a sanding stick or a need file along the bottom edge of the plank to remove any waviness.  

 

Here is my first starboard plank (there is a small gap between the plank and the bulwark between bulkheads 4 and 5, which looks bigger in the photo than it does in person, due to the presence of sawdust elsewhere along the plank edge;  this gap will disappear once I put down a layer of wood filler or drywall compound over the first layer of planking before sanding everything smooth when I'm done):

 

 

 

 

Here is the first port plank:

 

 

 

 

In this photo, you can see how the planks are fairly symmetrical at the stem:

 

 

Here's how they appear at the stern/transom:

 

 

And, finally, a shot of the underside:

 

[daveward]

After repeating the process for the second row of planking, here is the second port plank:

 

 

 

 

 

 

These next two photos shows how I leave the overhanging end of the plank at the stern/transom while the glue dries, then trim it so that it is flush with the transom:

 

 

 

Here is the second starboard plank:

 

 

 

Here's a shot of the symmetry at the bow:

 

 

And a shot of the stern:

 

 

And, finally, the underside:

 

[daveward]

With the third row of planking, the ship is starting to take shape (I mark the positions of the bulkheads on the completed planks in pencil so that I will know where they are when I determine the plank widths for the second layer):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everything seems to be fitting together properly, and I think I'm maintaining the proper symmetry.

 

 

 

 

So, at the end of my session on Saturday, after approximately 67 hours of work on this project so far, I had completed 6 planks (out of a total of 26).  The planking process is going more smoothly than I had anticipated, and it's really rewarding to see the hull starting to take shape!  I'm a little nervous about transitioning into the vertical planking at the stern and laying the garboard strake, but I'm going to take my time and do my best, so hopefully it will look nice.  Based on my planking layout, I should not need any drop planks or stealers, which pleases me.  Even though no one is going to see this layer, it is excellent practice for the second layer, and I'm learning what techniques are better than others for giving the appearance of a nice tight fit. 

 

I'll probably do some more work on the model this weekend.  The process itself is fairly straightforward, but it is a little time-consuming.  I find that I'm usually a bit nervous when laying the plank because I want it to look perfect, but I'm usually pleased with the results.  I think it will look quite nice when it's filled and sanded.  Anyway, let me know what you think, guys!   

[slow2cool]

1st rate job, for sure

outstanding

Joe

[GuntherMT]

Looks like you are getting the right idea, and it's coming along nicely.

 

Two things to keep in mind based on your description of how you are doing this.

 

1) If you place the plank while it is still damp, it will have some shrinkage as it dries.  This will possibly cause small gaps to appear between planks.  To avoid this, make sure the plank is completely dry before you place it.

 

2) You don't mention beveling the edge of the planks.  Due to the curve of the hull, the edge of the plank that is going up against the already placed plank should have a bevel sanded into it to close the gap that will naturally open between the planks due to the angle between the planks.

 

I thought I had a drawing of the plank edge beveling, but I can't find it at the moment, so if what I said isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to clarify it.

[AntonyUK]

Hi.

Making a First class job on the planking.

Brian has said what I was going to say.

I use a piece of softwood timber the same length as the max plank with a shallow saw cut that the plank will sit in on edge. Half a plank width deep.

This allows to you to get the correct tapper and the bevelling at the same time.

Keep up the excellent work.

 

Regards Antony.

[DocBlake]

Great job on the planking, so far.  it looks like you've got the process down pat.  Well done!

[Elijah]

Nice planking! You should be well prepared for your second planking!

[Bill Hime]

Looks great! I get your point about running full lengths. As the first layer this might be a good place to "practice" using some scale lengths. That way it won't be a first attempt on the finished layer. The same goes for beveling. And remember, you can sand,fill, etc.. on this layer. The finish layer is like a fine veneer, any ridges or variances will telegraph through to the finished layer.

 

Bill

[Jaxboat]

Great job! A little late but there is a book about enhancing the Lady Nelson. Can't remember the exact title but you can google on Amazon. You are doing such a good job that I don't know if it would be helpful but I thought I would mention it.

Jaxboat

[Dutchman]

Hi Dave. How is it going with the Lady? It's going to be my next build and your log will help me a lot. So, please, sail on!

 

Cheers!

 

Dutchman

 

@Jaxboat; do you mean "super-detailing the cutter Sherbourne, by Gearge Bandurack"?  It's a cutter very similar to the Lady Nelson. I bought it directly from the author and got it signed as well. Wonderful book!

Edited October 30, 2016 by Dutchman