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rafine

Granado by rafine - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64

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We've had some rain down here in Florida lately. As always, rain means less golf and more modeling -- so....

 

A great deal has been done in the bow area. To begin with, I fitted the ply subdeck for the the forecastle. This required that I make and mount the lower portion of the galley stack, which was made from boxwood strip painted black with a walnut strip coaming. I also drilled the hawse holes at this time.

 

After the subdeck was on, I did the forecastle planking and tree nailing. This was done exactly as before for the other decking.

 

Next, I painted the forecastle portion of the outer hull blue to match the other blue parts. I then I added the forecastle cap rails and hances using the kit parts. The knight heads and timber heads were also added, using the kit parts. All of this was painted black. I also painted the upper stem black at this time.

 

Then, I made up the forecastle swivel gun mounts, exactly as for the quarterdeck and midship mounts, and glued them in place.

 

With all that work completed, I continued the sheer molding forward to the stem, using the same three piece construction as before.

 

Finally, I made up the anchor lining from boxwood strip. tree nailed it, and mounted it in place.

 

Now, it's time to face a task that is never fun for me -- the head work. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what I'll do and how I will do it. The only thing that is clear is that I will not be using the kit parts, but will attempt to follow the AOTS, using all scratch built parts.

 

Bob

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Thanks so much Nils and the "likes". Nils, I "caulked" each of the planks with a pencil on one edge and one end.

 

Bob

 

Thanks Bob,

 

it looks great, I use the same technique for my ships decks and it also worked well every time, even if the planks are only 0,8 mm thick there is enough "flesh" on them for sanding over prior to varishing...and the "caulking" remains visible...

 

Nils

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Bob

I believe I'm going to do this ship next.

I love the look of the holly below the wales.

Can you tell me how much holly you needed for that?

How many strips? Did you rip them from 1mm sheets, from 5mm sheets, or buy milled strips.

Haven't used custom lumber (or in fact anything but basswood) before.

Bruce

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Bruce, I used milled strips from Crown Timberyard for all of the planking. I used the holly for both the lower hull and the decking and ended up ordering a lot more than I actually needed. I'm not sure whether it was bad estimating or efficient usage, but I'm guessing that the amount used on the lower hull was 6 strips of 5mm x 1mm and 45 strips of 4mm x 1mm. I used the metric sizes (which are available from Crown) to match the kit's metric dimensions. Because the strips are very thin and the holly is quite flexible, I used tapering and edge bending rather than spiling and, thus, was able to use the milled strips.

 

Bob

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After two weeks, work on the head is now done. As I previously indicated, the kit parts were discarded (other than the figurehead casting) and everything was done scratch using boxwood strip and sheet. The intent was to recreate what is shown in AOTS. Although my version is not a precise duplication, I think that it captures the essentials of that shown in the book. While the attached photos show the construction sequence that I followed, they fail to show the large number of discards and redos that were involved, nor the amount of ugly language that accompanied the work.

 

I began by cutting down and reshaping the stem. This also entailed recutting the gammoning slot and filling the old hole.

 

Next, I did the cheeks and trailboards. The cheeks, including the upward extension of the upper cheek, were done using the same lamination technique I used for the hull moldings. The trailboards were cut from sheet and painted blue as shown on the AOTS cover.

 

The hawse lining was cut from sheet, drilled for the hawse holes and bent to fit the hull. The hawse bolsters were shaped to fit from strip.

 

The cat head supports and the upper rail were shaped using strip assembled using the same lamination method.

 

The middle rails are single pieces of strip. The head timbers are strip pieces shaped to fit between the cheeks and upper rails and laminated to fit around the middle rails. Among all of the fiddly work on the head, this was certainly the worst and most frustrating.

 

The catheads were made using laminated strip that allowed for easy work making real sheaves, rather than simulations. Cleats were made from strip and the kit's cat face casting was added. The catheads were painted black and the casting painted to match the natural wood.

 

Lastly, the figurehead casting was painted to match the wood, using the same paints and method as was done with the stern castings.

 

I'm really happy to be done with this work. It's always been one of my least favorite tasks on any build.

 

Bob

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After completing work on the head, I wanted to do something less demanding (really, what wouldn't be ?}. I chose to do the two mortars. I used the kit's castings for the mortars, modified only by the addition of handles, as shown in AOTS. The handles were bent from wire. The mortar beds were also done with the kit parts, including eyebolts and the PE cap squares. I decided to show the mortars with one in a raised (firing) position and the other in a lowered (stowed) position.

 

I'm now moving on to start the remainder of the main deck detailing.

 

Bob

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