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Deben 5-tonner by vaddoc - Scale 1:10 - a Whisstock yard design

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On 5/28/2019 at 2:52 AM, KeithAug said:

Vaddock - Thank you. Their uniformity made me think you might have done something more complex. As ever on this site just a case of care attention and craftsmanship.

...ain’t that the truth!  Keith’s right.  Nice job as always,





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Thanks to all for your likes and comments


I ve been too busy lately but I did manage to do some work on the boat. This time it was all about blocks!


I will need many blocks, single and double, of various sizes. I have to find a way of mass producing them. Ordinarily, this would not be a big problem, but I want the blocks to be fully functional with brass sheaves. I spent quite a long time on the computer making CAD templates and came up with a very complex way.  The next pics are from the first attempts.








I realised that I could simplify things and that alignment could be maintained without any drilling. It still takes a long time to cut the little pieces, glue together, sand to shape, dill for the sheave and rings and finish with Tung oil. Still, it is now feasible and almost mass produced.







These blocks need quite a lot of work but were done within 1 hour or so. I have templates for smaller and larger ones. One main issue is attaching rings to them but I think CA glue should be enough for a reasonably strong bond.


I am also attaching the templates, maybe they ll be useful to some. 



block 7 x 5 with 3 mm sheave.pdf block 10 x 6 for 5 or 6 mm sheave.pdf blocks 12 x 8 for 8 mm sheave.pdf

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This is an interesting method of construction I've not seen before. The results look very nice.

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Hi Vaddoc, a good result, very nice.


My experience is that CA can be brittle if there's not much surface area for it to work with.

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Hello Vaddoc.  Those blocks turned out extremely nice - and so has everything else for that matter.  Your detailed log is informative and fun to follow.  Keep up the great work - she's turning out beautifully.



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Thank you all!


I continued to experiment with the blocks. Indeed, there is so little area for the CA glue to hold on to that I am concerned I ll have a lot of failures or that the sheaves will be glued by overspill. Also, I d like to avoid all this drilling and gluing.


I ve spent many days considering this problem and tried a few things that did not work. In the end, I tried serving some copper wire and using this instead of rope. I think this is actually the solution. Twisting the served wire and then coating with CA is very secure and looks ok.

In the next photos, the larger double block does not have Tung oil on (I forgot) but has a thimble that actually sat very nicely. For the smaller one, I should have made the twisted part shorter I think. They do run very smoothly. The thimble is slightly modified wire guardians, these come in two sizes (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-WIRE-GUARDIAN-5-COLOURS-CRIMPS-PROTECTORS-4-TIGER-TAIL-WIRE-JEWELLERY-UK/311961028467?hash=item48a2538773:m:mTVglS4r9SHT-NAqDLrcrAg&frcectupt=true)





I used copper wire simply because that is what I had. I think being softer it might work better than brass though. I have made a few pieces using two diameter wires and I will strop the blocks as I go as some may need to have eyes in both ends. It is very quick and easy, much easier than using rope.




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Posted (edited)

Time I think for another post


Life has been very busy and certainly not boring, in between massive storms ("supercell" storm), earthquakes, minor home flooding etc. I have been working on the boat but had no time to post and also managed to loose some photos. I have a new phone though so photo quality should now be better.


I invested a lot of time and effort and perfected my block making method. I made lots of components and I will be making blocks of various sizes and configurations on demand.




Then, I decided to clean my garage.



And as soon as I finished, I decided to completely reconfigure it and clear all unneeded stuff. I ll post a photo later but it now looks much better. It did take 3 days though. I also decided to add (when I can afford it) more lights, about 10000 lumens on top of the existing ones, this should make things easier.


Then, in a clean tidy garage, I started working on the gaff. It actually took a lot of work but I think came out fine. Still needs a few more components but the gaff jaws are ready. Both the saddle and the brass fitting pivot freely.








Progress is very slow but the finish line is getting closer, can't really be more than a year or two away...

In the mean time, could I get the prize for breaking the most drills in a single day?



Edited by vaddoc

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4 hours ago, druxey said:

Ouch! Are they  - I mean were they - carbide? Those are very brittle.

Yes! Closing the case, they slipped out a bit and got caught. All broke in a fraction of a second! 

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Is that all you broke? Try drilling 200+ portholes with 0.5 carbide drills. Good effort though.


Love the way those jaws turned out with the leather.

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Well, a bit of progress today despite a temperature of 38C. No need to convert to F, it is a lot!


Firstly, I ordered replacement drills (plus a few extra). You can never have enough drills.


Then, I worked on the boom and gooseneck. I could really use some micro tools for carving as it was tricky to sit the arms to the boom. The outcome was not as nice as I hoped but I can live with it. It moves extremely smoothly but still needs a bit more work.








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Another quick update! As family is away enjoying the summer, I found the opportunity to do a bit more work before I join them in a week's time.


I attached the fittings for the bob and whisker stays using brass pins and CA glue. The thread is there just to show the lines, it will of course be replaced by ropes, blocks and shackles.





Then the  chainplates went on. 




I would like to somehow have a couple of brass belaying pins attached to the back of the gooseneck. I am not sure how this would work but in the meantime I silver soldered two simple belaying pins


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Hi Vaddoc


nice work all around, especially the leatherwork details.


When you say 'near the gooseneck', I'm assuming that you mean on the boom near the gooseneck. In which case, be aware that you wouldn't usually put belaying pins - or another sort of cleat - on something that moves unless the rope that's going to be tied off there is moving with it. So a sail halyard that goes to the top of the mast can go to a pin or cleat on the mast. You can use a cleat near the gooseneck on the boom, but only for a line that does something on the boom (sail outhaul for example).


all the best

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