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Deben 5-tonner by vaddoc - Scale 1:10 - a Whisstock yard design

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Mark and Carl, it is a BIG baby! Even as a half hull! I think after completion I will take the masts down in all my models and pack them away, to come out in 20 years time...

 

Bedford, I tried the hairdryer and it seemed the wrong tool for the job. The heat gun came in and it was much better, more controlled and consistent. Safer as well as it was the admiral's hairdryer!

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I did a tiny bit of work today but I managed a breakthrough!

 

To complete the rails, I needed discs made of brass at 7 mm diameter with a central hole of 2 mm. I looked for brass washers but could not find them in these exact dimensions. There are Jewellers tools that cut discs of any size but are expensive. I ve been scratcing my head for days now but finally I figured a way to make discs from brass sheet. Needs a fair bit of tools but nothing too specialised.

 

I used the Dremel bit for mounting grinding discs, the screw has a diameter of 1.3 mm. I drew 7 mm circles in thin scrap wood and drilled a 1.3 mm hole in the middle. I cut small pieces of brass with a hole in the middle. I sandwitched it all, mounded the assembly on my cordless drill and started grinding against the rotating disc sander.

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The result was excellent. This is a process to make a few discs, not for mass production. I opened the hole to 2 mm on my drill press. This needs care as it is easy to make the hole off center

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This is how each rail is supposed to be, The shaft, the disc and the sleeve at the bottom will all be soldered together. The shaft will be glued through the deck and there will be 4 brass nails through the disc and into the deck. The next photo shows scrap pieces but the final rail will be something like this.

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6 hours ago, Mark Pearse said:

a photo from the internet, doesn't take much room space & is above little fingers

Easy for you Aussies to say, but in Europe we do not have that much head room ...

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Nice solution to a "tiny" problem. So if you take off the masts anyway, you are finished now ? ;)

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20 minutes ago, cog said:

Nice solution to a "tiny" problem. So if you take off the masts anyway, you are finished now ? ;)

Lol, Carl this would mean going to waste the 150 m of rope I spent weeks making! Maybe best to press on...Indeed, Mark, not all countries are continents!😄 In England we are like sardines in a can.

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42 minutes ago, vaddoc said:

this would mean going to waste the 150 m of rope I spent weeks making

For your next build ... than you have it ready for use , wouldn't want to have it go to waste now!

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I think I hit a milestone today as I installed the bobstay, the first bit of rigging to go on the boat.

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I am not entirely sure where to attach the line on the boat, I think I ll add cleats to the bowsprit and maybe a couple of belaying pins to the heel. Maybe another pin rail is needed. 

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I also finished the poles for the rails. They are not all identical but at least there are 4 pairs. The tape protects the part that will be glued as I applied some renaissance wax to the rest.

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I could not restore the brass colour, the copper kept appearing in the surface. A bit of internet search indicated that my pickling solution was contaminated with iron which makes the brass copper colour as it removes the zinc from the surface. So I ll need a new solution, I think I ll use citric acid this time.

 

I though that rigging would be relatively quick but this is not the case. It takes time and I will need very many shackles so I ll start making some more

 

Vaddoc

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Hi Vaddoc

 

Good progress. On the bobstay line, there will be photos online of English types that have this setup, should be some good references there. It seems to be an area of rigging of this yacht that is definitely English as opposed to American, or Australian.

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Well, it is one step forward and two steps backwards!

 

I thought with the coronavirus situation I would have plenty of time for the boat but this is not the case. As the little ones do not go to school, we have to do an awful lot of work to keep them busy and keep some pace to their education. So I ve been doing a lot of painting and drawing, made model boat, trains and trucks from various materials, played board games etc. 

 

Going back to the boat, I decided that I do not like the way that I stropped the blocks with copper wire served with thread. The blocks took so much work to make that it did not do them justice. 

 

Ideally I would like to use rope and splice the ends. In the Ketch, my previous model, I used splicing extensively but all ropes there were three strand ropes so easier to splice. The rope I make now is made of threads and not strands and splicing is almost impossible.

 

I experimented for weeks, mainly trying to use heat shrink tube. Michael's suggestion to use it on the shrouds was fantastic but despite all my efforts,I could not make it work on the blocks or the rope ends/thimble. Bellow are some of the failed attempts. They don't look too bad but I could not standardise a method and was not happy with these results

 

This is the old strop versus a proper rope one

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So finally I found a relatively easy way to do it, giving consistent results I am happy with. So here it goes:

 

A few tools, a copper/brass ring with soldered ends, thread and needle, some rope and a brass electrical connector thingy is needed.

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First, I open the ends of the connector carefully to preserve the round shape and to not leave sharp edges

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Then I flay a bit the ends of the rope.

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I secure the rope on one connector. Which side the rope end is matters.

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Then do the loop and secure the rope and the threads to the other. This is the most difficult step, there is a learning curve

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Ready to be tied. Despite the crimping, pulling on the rope ends the loop size can be adjusted.

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Tied with fine polyester thread, the ends buried underneath with the usual loop trick . I decided to use black and highlight the stropping rather than try to hide it. Tying the thread around the rope is relatively easy as the rope is secured in the crimps

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Ready! 

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This block though will have an eye, this is simply tied with black thread

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I like this method, gives consistent results and the blocks are reasonably strong

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I now have to strop another 40 or 50 more blocks. Humongous work on these blocks and in the future, no one will ever know! Oh well, that's life! 

Stay safe all!

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20 hours ago, Mark Pearse said:

that's a LOT of blocks

No winches in my boat Mark! Plan is to make rigging as complex as possible (to learn and for fun), I d like to have many ropes and blocks.

Also, I made many blocks because making them is so complex and time consuming that I did not want to go back to it. I counted the blocks I have ready, they are 50 in different configurations. I hope they will be enough.

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It was raining today so no cycling. The children were tired and the admiral had no jobs for me. That meant I had lots of time to work on the boat!

 

Before moving on to the boat though, a small word on lighting. I have about 1000 W of fluorescent lights but it is actually not enough. I think that for the detailed work I do, I would need twice as much. I bought a lamp from IKEA and paired it with a daylight bulb producing 5000 lumen. This made a huge improvement. This is how my work area looks like now

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Today I replaced the bob and whisker stays using the newly stropped blocks. I think they look much better. It is a bit difficult to capture the boat well on photos, it is very big and my cheap samsung phone is struggling.

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Next I installed the outhaul for the traveller and a line to haul it back in. I also installed the line for the flying jib which also acts as a self tensioning stay. In the next photos there is a piece of copper wire joining the two ends that would normally be attached with shackles to the flying jib or to each other when the jib is furled.

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I have just starting the rigging and already I have 7 lines to find cleats for. There will be many more by the time the boat is done. I will finish rigging the bowsprit area however and then decide where to install more hardware.

Today was a lot of fun, hopefully I ll be able to do a bit more work soon.

 

Regards

Vaddoc

 

 

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Great work as usual

It's always hard to get the right amount of light exactly where you want it even though fluoros are the best way to light a workshop because their length helps eliminate shadows cast by you and other things. Sometimes an adjustable, relocatable lamp is the only way.

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Thanks Bedford! The real problem is that my garage walls are  bare brick with no ceiling so light does not reflect. At one time I considered painting the walls and boarding up the roof but it was just too much work and expenses.

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You could glue plaster board (e.g. Knauff) to the wall, which is quite easy and quick It would be practical above the workbench ... I used the method in my kitchen to get an even wall

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On 5/10/2020 at 11:40 PM, vaddoc said:

I have about 1000 W of fluorescent lights but it is actually not enough

I know what you mean, the more light I put in the more I need, I think the main problem is my eyes. The blocks and shackles look really nice - worth the effort.

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Thanks Keith, indeed ageing eyes is the main problem!

Carl, I agree, gluing some white panels on the walls and also ceiling should be a relatively easy solution to get some light reflections.

 

Today, I continued work on the boat and overall was a very satisfying day. I brought down the mast to pass the hoops and then I secured it properly to the tabernacle with the brass axle. It kind of looked like a shipwreck.

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I then tied the proper ropes on the dead eyes. I replaced the wire ropes holding the spreaders and added a temporary wire aft to hold the mast. The backstays should be doing this but I will at them last otherwise they will be constantly in the way.

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So now the mast stands on its own.

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The Highfield levers I think should be placed somewhere here, next pics show the open and close position

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Adding the rigging is really good fun, it is very satisfying to see the boat slowly being completed. The next photos show the rigging that is already in place.

 

So bob stay and both whisker stays are ready as well as the out and inhaul of the traveler. The forestay is in place.

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The jib topsail goes all the way to a block at the top of the mast and is actually a self tensioning stay. The two ends now tied with a bit of wire would normally attach to the sail

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The jib is a flying jib and as such needs a lot of tension. The block that is attached to the traveller would normally be attached to the jib. At the mast there are two blocks and two lines reach the deck. The starboard one just ties and loosely sets the tension, then the port blocks put some real tension.

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Now, I really need to start adding some cleats, there are now many lines that need to be tied somewhere. I am hesitating though as there will be a lot of components in this very small boat so I don't want to be in a position needing to pull some cleats out.

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This is now great fun, hopefully I ll make some more progress this week.

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She looks like a beauty. Some marvelous details, especially the brass. Soon the only way we can see it is a model is the wall behind her and the table with tools, so life size like!

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Thank you all for your likes and comments!

 

Today I installed a few cleats to tidy up a bit the boat. The cleats are very securely attached with 1 mm stainless steel screws.

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The bow looks much more tidy now. I thought of installing a pin rail but I think the heel timbers would certainly be used to tie ropes so maybe it will not be necessary. I am not sure how to arrange the excess rope so for now I used fine copper wire to hold the loops

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I also installed pin rails on the shrouds and temporarily the boom, mainly to know were on the mast to install more cleats and pins

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The boat is very big so difficult to get it all in a photo

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Thanks Bedford! My 5 year old daughter popped in the garage, saw the boat and asked "why boats have so many cables?"

 

I did a bit more work today, it is really a very enjoyable part of this journey. This is how I work now, I have a pot of blocks, one with shackles and my box full of ropes.

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I added to the mast the three brass pin holders I had prepared many months ago and also added a cleat. I hope I won't run out of point to tie lines coming from the mast top, I think I could add a couple of more cleats to the mast-I d rather not though

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Next I added the rigging for the staysail. The single block that would be attached to the head of the sail is temporarily attached to the crance iron with a bit of copper wire. Plenty of pins to tie the bitter end! I also put some proper rope to the forestay tensioner.

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The mast hardware is certainly becoming very busy-it will get even busier.

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The bow is now completed, just a loose line needed to the bobstay chain. Of course, there will be 6 lines from the sails that will need to be sent aft and 6 cleats will be needed, maybe to the outside of the cockpit coaming. 

 

Next some work will be needed on the boom and gaff as they should be next to go on the boat.

 

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You certainly seem to be cracking on. Are you planning to add sails, what I find is that it is really difficult to get sufficient tension in the forestay to counteract the pull of the jib sheet. The forestay tends to bow more than it would on a full sized vessel. I will be interested to see how you solve the problem (if you do have sails).

 

 

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Many thanks Keith, indeed the plan is for full sails. The rigging is actually quite beefy and potentially could take a lot of tension. The shackles are also strong. There are 2 weak areas though that might give in. One is the cranse iron that took too many bumps and is just nailed (ca glue on the nails). The other is the backstays, I did not take into account that they would need to actually take some serious load so they are not as strong as i would like. The pull of the main sail should take some of the load off.

However, it will mostly have the sails furled. Due to the functional blocks, hoisting sails is easy.

 

Hopefully not long before we find out!

 

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On 1/7/2018 at 7:54 PM, vaddoc said:

Another milestone reached, the hull is finished!

 

It took a massive amount of filler to do the job.

 

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Then I applied two coats of sanding sealer, sanding after its coat. Finally, I sanded to 240 grit and then used some 0000 steel wool. The hull is now very smooth, sealed and the imperfections are all filled. Notice that the light reflects off the surface of the hull!

 

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I then cut the ribs flush with the sheer. I left the ones that secure the braces though. I now need to figure out how the deck will work and then start making the beams

 

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.

 

 

Hi Vaddoc, there is some really  beautiful work here. lovely.  Vlad 

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On 5/15/2020 at 1:42 AM, vaddoc said:

Thank you all for your likes and comments!

 

Today I installed a few cleats to tidy up a bit the boat. The cleats are very securely attached with 1 mm stainless steel screws.

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The bow looks much more tidy now. I thought of installing a pin rail but I think the heel timbers would certainly be used to tie ropes so maybe it will not be necessary. I am not sure how to arrange the excess rope so for now I used fine copper wire to hold the loops

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I also installed pin rails on the shrouds and temporarily the boom, mainly to know were on the mast to install more cleats and pins

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The boat is very big so difficult to get it all in a photo

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Awesome. 

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Thanks Vlad! The Deben is a very fun boat to build and like your clipper, I think deserves a large scale!

 

Now, I d like to share with you a few more models that I ve been building. You see, I have a 3 and a 5 year old and this lockdown is an opportunity for some creative time together by doing school projects. They actually take a lot of time but the girls love it!

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Back to the boat, I must admit I am having a great time. Progress is now very fast, I mostly draw info from the books by John Leather and Tom Cunliffe. They do have limitations though but more on these later on. Also, the size of the boat creates a problem taking good photos. Another problem is that I am running out of single blocks, I think that I will have just enough. I really do not want to make any more!

 

So far , these are the components of the running rigging that have been installed

1. Jib topsail, which is combined with the stay and self tensioning

2. Jib, which is set flying with some powerful blocks

3. Staysail, again with powerful blocks.

 

Next, it was time to add the gaff. It has a sheave for the gaff top sail.

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4. Throat halliard. It is currently made fast to the port pin rail but Cunliffe is adamant it needs to be on the starboard side so I ll change it later

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Yes, the hoops need to be bellow the gaff-fixed later on

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5. Peak halliard. The wire will look fine once the sail goes on and there is a bit of weight and pull on the gaff

20200517_210559.thumb.jpg.8440d5b43bed22270b2903a13c61a1cf.jpg

20200517_210655.thumb.jpg.df7a60472b48fb73635f4a6fe7ce0115.jpg

6. Topping lift. This again has some powerful blocks. The line will be tied to one of the mast pins-this pin will be shared with the topsail downhaul as the two lines will never be used simultaneously.

20200519_210557.thumb.jpg.c79734dc025ca15f34120f010826a2ed.jpg

20200519_210612.thumb.jpg.607119a648bc48ba2482f0c22bdfe9a5.jpg

The topping lift is the upper most block

20200519_210629.thumb.jpg.d1073c48c9419d2ed8271053c8162413.jpg

20200519_210701.thumb.jpg.037137e86e7bb159540632a76e323e54.jpg

The next 3 sketches explain how the rigging works. S1 means single block one ended, S2 two ended etc

20200519_210742.thumb.jpg.faf108a48baeb2bf48daa75ca5bd728a.jpg

20200519_210752.thumb.jpg.71fc757e8bbbd81c27fc028df0393a36.jpg

20200519_210803.thumb.jpg.9c21d68d6337c9781e7bd3914c49cf62.jpg

I then actually moved the topping lift to the other side of the mast to make room for the lines rigging the topsail

20200519_215733.thumb.jpg.33de980310e179002b4641bfb5601e6f.jpg

The next two photos show how things are currently. I started rigging the topsail but run out of time. Certainly the mast is starting to look busy!

20200519_215756.thumb.jpg.0315d0e9f41b7755723207a9de775a0d.jpg

20200519_220524.thumb.jpg.ac29842e8ab28b41a8eb8448d08b4e09.jpg

I now am confident that there will be enough room on the boat for all the above components. However, I am concerned that there will not be enough room for the sheets of the foresails.

 

The two books I mentioned earlier, "Gaff Rig" and "Hand, reef and steer" do not elaborate enough on how the sheets are arranged. I searched the net and also watched several You tube videos and this is what I came up with:

 

The jib top mast is a weak sail, does not need a block and the sheet goes straight to the stern

The jib will have on each side a single block, one end of the line tied to the deck, the other through the block, through a lizzard and straight to a cleat at the stern

The staysail needs powerful blocks

 

The problem is that 3 cleats will be needed at the stern on each side, and with the Highfield levels and the main sail sheet blocks, I do not think there is enough space. Maybe I should not have made the cockpit so generous. Anyway, we ll need to make do. I also would like to add a boom vang but I ll leave this for later.

 

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