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OK.  I have come to the conclusion that Amalio isn't building this model himself at all.   I believe that there are 1 inch tall boat-wrights that build this model in the middle of the night.  I'm sure that I see there tiny foot prints in the sanding dust.  That's what it has to be!!  No one can work that precise in that scale!!!  :default_wallbash:

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One will never ever have enough clamps, druxey.

 

Look at it, Amalio can't even finish an entire length ...

 

 

Another fine day at the shipyard Amalio

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Good morning.
I use a lot to remove the tail, these circular brushes from Dremel. When two hours have passed after having glued. There are corners where it does not arrive and you have to take it into account so that it does not overflow in those places.
It is necessary to put the machine at the lowest possible speed so as not to burn the nylon of the brush.

IMG_5486.JPG

IMG_5485.JPG

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18 hours ago, michael mott said:

Finally I see that he is human

Or it could be just a trick to make us THINK he's human! All the while he's operating with those 8 arms :)

 

Am I understanding you Amalio that you remove the dried glue with the nylon brushes turning very slowly? I've never heard of removing PVA glue that way and I've been using it for too many years. Interesting.

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Amalio: isn't it easier to clean up PVA glue squeeze-out with a damp (or wet) brush before it dries? That's been my practice for years.

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If you can, I prefer to do it that way because if you do it with wet tail, it always stains the neck.
I find it very comfortable and with a good result.
Thank you.

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Posted (edited)

I use the same method as Amalio, same nylon brushes (discovered it by accident), and it works great! Especially on half-dried glue.

It is just much faster and simpler than water. But water works better in tight areas, for sure. Especially water plus scraping with some xacto blade.

Edited by Mike Y

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But wouldn't you run the risk of making markings on the wood with the exacto blade, which you cannot see with Amalio's method ...

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