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Jörgen

HMC Sherbourne by Jörgen - Caldercraft - 1:64

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Thank you as always Tony :). I think I will keep it. When I put a 1:64 figure behind the transom he can actually just look over the edge so the high fells natural. And  I think it is just little bit smaller than Dirk:s transom and it looks really good on his Sherbourne. 

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It's the inverse question that every builder has faced from admirals at some point - theirs being does this X make my transom too big?

 

I actually built mine back up a bit at one point, it was something I worried about when sanding the hull but I ended up with a smaller transom than I wanted. You can do the same, it's just a pain to do, but I'd go with what Tony recommends.

 

I'm getting closer to starting my treenailing, and I'm still not sure what woods I'm going to use. What you have looks pretty much perfect in terms of darkness differential, I think I'm going to use it as a starting point for my experimentation.

 

I was thinking about using dowels in the ballpark and taper them, but now that seems like asking for inconsistent sizes. I have the Byrnes drawplate so starting point is 22 and .5mm. And I'm going to work from your frame spacing. Basically I'm going to steal everything you're doing :)

 

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And i am stealing from others:). The frame spacing is from AOTS Alert and actually is exact 1cm. I have changed the tree nailing to the 24 hole instead. It works good and saves me from a lot of frustration over broken sticks. The gap between 24 and 22 makes a big difference. 

I am planking the hull at the moment but it is a very slow process. To many family things takes the time from the shipyard. our small children get sick over and over again from the preschool. Fells like a never ending story......

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Hello all, it was a while ago. 

I haven't build on the Sherbourne for some time because life get in the way. I have also done some other project like this:)

 

8N9A0496.thumb.JPG.f115be6a1f2414a1f6284c431d8061eb.JPG

 

However I have now start to build on the Sherbourne again and I have just finished the planking. It is far from perfect but since this build is to learn the different technics. Lessons that I have learned is:

  • Use more time and make better planing and drawings at the beginning. Now that I have done it the first time I know how the outcome will be so the planing will be easier.
  • Plank in smaller belts so it is possible to correct the lines between the belts.
  • Not afraid to use a sharp knife to correct planks that already is glued in place.
  • Start with the garboard strake and plank upwards since I don't like at all the fit in plank between other planks. You will then always have a plank to press against. 
  • Be careful with needles since they make mark in the planks even if you put them at the side of the plank to hold it in positioning.
  • Be better to use rabbet and this most in the steam.
  • Be very carefully with superglue since in "paint" the planks dark.
  • Try to avoid water as much as possible when bending planks. It takes to long time to dry them before it is possible to glue them in. I have start to Use Chucks method with hairdryer. 
  • But ends............. How bad I was on lining up the but ends. The reason was actually laziness. From now I will put much more attention to this.

The result is below.P1000671.thumb.JPG.bddfc85881d5ffa083a800cc1a3ff64f.JPGP1000672.thumb.JPG.3ebd8088b2af9b9be09ea0375ff41862.JPGP1000673.thumb.JPG.f5f3b526f4639f95a24e3149d58f005a.JPGP1000674.thumb.JPG.7f20ce877d3312fd8143dca9419dc93b.JPGP1000675.thumb.JPG.480d1dd923d25a790bfb8ce487d019b5.JPG

Now it is time to continue with the stern and tree nailing....


I also have to announce that I will start on a new project as you can see below.

  

P1000660.thumb.JPG.df1ed4cbcded34a6d3b215a463f8ea77.JPG

 

I already build the new DeAgostini Vasa but since I also have the Billing boats Vasa so think I it is a very good idea to build them at the same time so people here can see the differences between the kits. I am planing to build the Billing Vasa strait from the box as a relaxed build since I will put all effort on the DeAgsotini Vasa since it is so much better in details. The Billing Vasa will also have the "old" painting scheme since i like the colours:)

 

Jörgen

 

 

 

Edited by Passer

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Hi again.

It is almost one year ago since i did some update here. To be honest so did I lose the mojo when I started to do the tree nailing. And then came spring and I started to build a new garage to our house so i forgot Sherbourne. I started to modeling again this autumn but it was most plastic 1/48 aircrafts (here is a link to my latest build if someone is interested. It turn out really good i think  https://photos.app.goo.gl/K8Xd3N8ZvhoA7NxdA ).

But my mojo for Sherbourne just came back so i have continued the build! As you can see on the photo below so have I continued with the tree nailing. One thing that make it much easier sine last year is that I increased the hole diameter from 0.5 to 0.6 mm. This make the production of the tree nails so much easier because they don't split so often. The foto below show how I am doing the tree nailing. Also one one  plank has been replased as you can see in the upper part of the photo.

 

W6VOoR6qqwzj4lF_RJi_xHsEmpx1y_uz08IQQ_Qe Now have i drilled all the holes and I have a big blister on my finger..... Sherbourne is not so seaworthy at the moment :)

 

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This is all from me for now. I felt it was a good thing to start the build log again.

 

Best regards

Jörgen

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FINALLY!!!!I never thought this time would come! The tree nailing is finished. Sherbourne is a hedgehog.tP4Lx6-EEvWmYpXF89p5IL0HBblf4y9SHLYY0Li6  k7tOQUamVr-B5omWqAtuTeoVFSoyQiWgs8k_s0sv

And then all is sanded down and dissapear for now....

 

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It looks little weired in the sharp light for the photo all the dust is reflecting the light. I think it will look quite good when the final oil layer will be applied. But now I can start to build again:) 

 

 

 

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Small update. I have done hawse plates for my Sherbourne. I added them for two reasons, i wanted to have it since i think it looks nice and I needed to cover some damages I done :). They can not be seen on the drawings for Sherbourne so i tataly made them up bymyself.

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I wasn't sure if i like the look of them. Think they are little bit big so I started to thinking of take them of and reshape them but that wasn't a good idea...............

 

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So I decided to keep them as they are :)

The drawings (as I have seen in Gregor and Tonys buildlogs) so are there two hawse holes on each side so I decided to do that. Then I did the holes for tree nails. I just made up some pattern that I liked.

 

-CYN5GQwaaqjrQJZenSQWFxoDEH8-D5gkRWz-fm7

 

The hawse holes are 2.5 mm in diameter and the tree nails are done by 0.8mm drill. Some trre nails were done and glued in.

 

OIQ1hyaC_sT4ZXKE9d8IVslo0Fu3i29xb8V4kK-H

 

Sanded them down and I am quite happy with the result. I think they don't look to big now. I think everything will blend in nice when the oil is added and the havse plates will just add to the "buisinees" in the front. Actually they look little oversized on the photos but that is the mobile camera that "create" that. They look better in reallife.

 

M_n99C9V_MjwHVYqIANM72yo7h4Ujclez3D5SO2X

 

I can't make up my mind on what to do with the two foremost gunports. I don't just want them emty so either have closed gunportlids or add two extra guns here. According to wikipedia so was Sherbourne build as a 10 gun Cutter (the kit instructions says  8 but there are 10 gunports..) so maybe it is not wrong to put "full" arnament even if she never seems to have it. 

 

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Well spotted on the hawse holes. I kept only two and can't remember the discussion around them.

 

With regard to the forward gun port it would have been very tricky to set up one of the cannon in the area because of the windlass, bowsprit supports and pin rail. You'll see that I adjusted the pin rail so that it was along the axis of the boat, but even then there wouldn't have been much room. There was also the question of getting the gun over the windlass. I think we assumed that the forward ports would only have been used in exceptional circumstances and so left them empty.

 

You'll have seen from the build logs that there was extensive discussion about whether gunport lids were fitted. There is one shown in one of the plans, so some builds included them. However there were contemporary cutters without such lids. You can't go wrong if you want to fit them, so it's up to you. It'll give you nice practice anyway!

 

Keep up the good work,

 

Tony

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I will fit them Tony, I use Sherbourne for practise after all:). Then I probobly close the forward ports. But I think it is little tricky to get the right fit.

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Hi again and a small update. The build is slow because hard to find time to sit down and build. Real life with work and small children takes its toll :)

However here is what I have done. 

I constructed the two front gunport lids and lids for the oar ports. All of these will be closed. Then I put one layer of tung oil on the hull for protection (and it looks better for me when I am sitting and build). I am very happy how the tree nailing looks under the oil layer and I think it was worth the effort. They are quite "funny" because you can't see them if you don't look on them strait on. This makes the tree nails to blend in perfect on the hull and just adds details for the eye. 

 

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1kofgV0rgULYqfEeeAlK7fOGdmVXyHevPryhpg4s

TZDRIEqVXLV2FhXfDZLCZUQdNQ_ZkWDkIQmG1kgJ

Then I started to create the fancy rails. I used a 2x2 mm list instead of the one supplied in the kit. In the DeAgostini Vasa kit so were there supplied this template in photo etch for these type of work so I didn't have to create it by my self.

kg7twdIUAuJmcQuXsq7m1wry-GCKQ_GkqG3k4hP6 

The strips fancy rails will be 2 mm wide instead of the 1.5 on the kits drawings but it will look better because they will be the same size as the channel (i think it is called). However 2mm will be to deep so I sanded them down to 1 mm in my own "thickness sander. 

2l866Zv-BW3EeMSHpXMvmgehUiac8-phm1oQL50T 

Here is the result

3ol09WXWDmJdPO4GFGfTPry3_XdigSw3NBgEgpjS

I soaked the strips in water and put them on the hull wet. The drying will give them the proper shape and it will be much easier to glue them on place.

This is all for now. I will add two phots over other project that I have finished. I hope you don't mind that I put them here. The wood and plastic model building complement each other because for me they are so different. Plastic is more or less glue and paint but the in the wood you have to think much more and figure out how to construct the parts :) 

 

Best regards

Jörgen

 

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q4MiPjRv8HgsjjN6aIMSvQsyQbwGONIukjKhqWxM

 

 

 

Edited by Jörgen

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Very nice progress, Jörgen. Those treenails have come out just fine, and the lids are wonderfully precise. Are you going to give the lids hinges or some other means of holding them? I also appreciate your modifications and re-thinking.

I really agree about the benefit of wood modelling. Kits give a great feel for working with the ideas and tools and are the ideal way of starting, but it gets even better when you start building just from plans as the number of degrees of freedom increase dramatically.

I also very much appreciate the added photos of the planes. There the challenge is the seamless finish combined with great care and skill in paintwork: both of which you have accomplished admirably. They remind me of my younger days with Airfix kits of World War 2 fighters and bombers, although I never achieved the level of execution that you have.

Tony

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Thank you Tony, you are very kind as always :)

You and the others have done most of the thinking, I just add my small touch. Too bad that I didn't build Sherbourne when you and the others did. I read your old diskussion all the time and make my own conclusions of them:)

Yes I will put on hinges but I hasn't touched that brass work yet. Lot to learn but I will finish most of the woodwork before I start on that. And after that I think I will try to learn how to make my own ropes...

I  have too many plastic kits on the shelf that I need to finish so I have to fit them in also :)

 

 

 

 

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Hi again

 

Today was a very good day in the cave, I was aloud to work the whole day on Sherbourne since my wife gave me permission.... :)

So here is what I have done (some parts was done during the week)

 

I have formed the whales in water and the have then aloud to dry attached to the hull to be able to get there form.

 

64CF3ea-ldGOPLdMvi5nOqcvb-74q9uf67Y_muGE 

 

The wales was painted black with airbrush. I used Vallejo Model Color Black diluted in theres airbrush cleaner.

 

UG7xVtnvcCWsHp6JhO3aRA-Ckrz6kSZeyUxOGpnf

 

After this I glued them in position with superglue and wood glue.

 

omERo9KbTWBJA842hJyMcjZ3E_lCI_1aRlD7Sg5c

 

I constructed some counter timber. They can't be seen on the drawings for Sherbourne but I think they are a nice tough and also they make the stern "come together"  and hides the joints.

 

PFGrJ8HJs2puEY1SPcTp4VUSbGqWwGY84rUWO5zq

 

The rails for the stern were constructed and glued on the the hull.

 

SraL70AV1CX37S1PveeWA4BTx9d4wWnaWpYgQtQw

 

The joint from the stern rails to the counter timber were not so nice....

 

CaVJPFZAuVyELNWj_cxGDcSaOkTcUKNGAms9PwWx

 

But this is fixed by vallejo putty

 

WTby2x82na3KxwhhAngsD9tl9--2cxPg1bHKF5d_

 

And here is how it looks like when finished. I have thinking a lot on how to make the stern on Sherbourne because I didn't like it at all how it was presented in the kit. So this is my way to do it. Others have done it different. 

 

pOqEcQueW8UkgXwIgFjCmsGuaeth_5IU-8VXPnoT 

 

Now next step, some masking tape.

 

NM_AYL-q3C943f95ygO0Mg69O-enwgGOC0Ufvx11

 

And Vallejo Model Color Yellow Ochre diluted in airbrush thinner was sprayed on

 

u46E9pvcySPO1BQXZPrkDDOeJgnGLDzmUsermScO

 

And when masking of the tape it seems that Tamiya masking tape seems to disolve the tung oil. This is very good to remember for the future to avoid problems. It is easy fixed again by just wipe on oil again.

 

1myyd1GIBjcMf9tGDtUw68kZMdhzhb0cEDrYDYhI

 

And here is the result

 

BHsY9_kxswHMdgx2pVCS30JNGhimD_ekQjmHV9tX

1tX9P4i1MwpOFI_OUsbo3iHDjiR7lsLYFan5979t

So this is all for now. Now it must dry to morning so I can continue with the stern to clean it upp and try to name the ship :)

 

Jörgen

  

 

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Posted (edited)

Yes, that join at the stern counter is certainly very challenging. A good solution. I also appreciate the use of an airbrush. I don't know how to use one but I can see they produce great results.

 

Tony

Edited by tkay11

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Tony, i can't paint without it. I just hate to paint with a brush. Airbrush gives superior finish. I can highly recommend it but it is some investments. But you do not need any expensive compressor or airbrush to start to learn. And it is not hard to do. Much easier than the skills you already has learned during your shipbuilding:)

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Thanks for the encouragement, Jörgen. I'll read up about it once I finish my current build.

I think there's plenty of advice on the web but I note that there is nothing in the articles database in the area labelled 'painting'. I am pretty sure that if you write an article about your own methods and place it there it would be of interest to many on this forum who might like to try it.

Tony

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Posted (edited)

I will think on it Tony and it is an interesting idea (Me doing an guide here... :) ). I will soon paint my other FW 190 D9 in 1/48 so maybe do something there. Have some more work to do before painting and Sherbourne take my time for the moment.

This is also the very good benefit to work with "two ends" of the hobby and combine them.

 

There are some interesting things I have discovered since I started to build wood kits and read books and followed build threads. They are (this does of course not apply to every one)

 

-   Resin is or plastic parts are forbidden.... Some people seems to think that if a part is of white metal or something the quality is so much better than if      the part were of plastic or resin. Funny because the details in resin parts is light years ahead of what you can get in white metal. 

 

- Sails seems to be avoided at all times. The idea is that they are impossible to do because of scales etc. Well many more things is done and they are still in wrong to scale. I read in a book by a quite famous builder (i think he was since he did many books) that he didn't want to touch a nail to do stitch  or the sewing machine (in my ears it sound like it was a woman's work.....)

 

- Caldercraft Admiralty color seems to be THE color brand to use :) 

Edited by Jörgen

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Hi again

I have been able to do more work on the stern.

I didn't like the photo etch letters in the kit because In my opinion they are to big. So I order new from http://cornwallmodelboats.co.uk and they are much more in my taste. In the photo below so are the kit letter to the left and the new to the right.

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iXjVyqhJABnDztrP-Pc5xDeXh4eZVqDWHohPAc24

My first attempt to use them failed because I used blu tak to attache the letters but even how small amount I used so were the blu tak spreading out to musch. You can see it on the photo below. 

ZQFn42YDKxcA-93DP6KnQYeC6IGpLQXLDsliyBjv

I sprayed it with black but after removing the letters the bad result from the blu tak was shown.

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nynTKaCwis1bRdaKeY4jF8jBRTkOKsIZoEElfCOn

I was not at all happy wit h the result so I sanded it down again and repainted it. Then I used Tamiya X22 clear for protection because I used white glue instead to attach the letters. Then I sprayed it with MRP black lacquer paint because i removed the letters with little water. It was still not perfect but I learnt how to make a wet palette for acrylic colors and I then had the time to fill in the bad areas with a 10/0 brush. Here is a photo on the wet palette and here is a link how to made it, I can highly recommend it if you paint with acrylic colors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMPn5po5-m0

PBxHYhLvrw9Epoqx-czSVtuFxBqkG9sFpv59-MxO

After this a paint the other areas black with Vallejo models color and the sprayed it with Tamiya XF-86 flat clear to even out the colors. I was then forced to re oil the stern because the masking tape had removed old oil...  

I am really happy with the result so I can continue on other parts now and this is all for now :)

hPSqERCgbVmmVX4DOFkYcMYayUZ5TzgsKylceIO0

NT7I5Ke8om0itVh-0mfUM2ycNad46aYWJLl81lcg

 

 

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Posted (edited)

The construction continues with the channels. I used the kit parts for template to construct new parts in dark massive walnut.

 

HLoe0_754Ll5RPjQDLD5Wbw4YxiRJV-85LZ3TsRz

 

The part with the right color that I wanted to use was 5 mm thick but the channel is 2 mm so I had to milled it to right thickness.

 

8ycW9CeD7RqDinX0Xl934aPJ84CsYkHkSKw9wgFk

-axujTJ9rKikhwcZ9H2JIh8j4aow3yPrImLQw0fO

 

Then I formed the channels and milled out the chain plate slots. I also drilled 0.8 mm holes for reinforcements.

  

hLMMmTMZ2ifC5FF5_xFY6066M8uXi_tS3Y18c3TW

 

I also created the outer part for the channel but this will be attached later when the chain plates is installed. It was very fun to start to be "creative" with the milling machine :)  

 

99mAzMqgNVWLCVCr0B4kFeOvJfTzt7OI-H8yMcHf

 

This part is only 1,5 mm thick and i manage to mill the strip out with right thickness.

 

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0.8 mm brass wire is used as the reinforcement. The parts is installed with wood and cuper glue.

 

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And the installed channel :)

 

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This is all for now. Next part will be the entry port ladders and it should be interesting to see if I manage to mille out the form for them that is presented in the Alert book.

 

Edited by Jörgen

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Hi again, a fast update since i manage to do the entry port ladders yesterday.

I was thinking how to make six exact the same ladders and this is how I did it. I milled them out on a row from a bigger block. I also drilled out 0.5 mm holes and tree plug them since this is shown in the Alert drawing. The ladders are 2,5 mm high and 11.2 mm wide.

 

-lPT5keFXhkFBuImQL15W4e76mbusnzavyBOsqMy

 

Then i made the curved pattern with a round mill bit.

 

h7WgwSfjdh2xwmaqkDHog8lad9u8EF1CRVrVsQiJ

 

I also milled  out a small edge on the upper part of the ladder. Sorry for the bad photo but I hope you can see it.

 

T549u_T6lxRkTEGKtefDTV4U4g3OKzGmPk-mpm9J 

 

Then the parts were milled out from its block. The corners were rounded with a small file. Also 2mm x 0.5mm hand holes scores were milled in each part. Then they were glued on the hull on each side.

 

c85UL3Wg95-U3h0hyE7ecSb2IM7ClBrmVMPey0hW

 

Then a layer of oil was added.

I am really happy with the result and at last I am finish with the wood part of the hull so now can I start to focus on deck area.

Here are some photos and this is all for now. :)

 

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B5Vhhwhk4s2oTMFpsnP5G4bmFQNYSwAbDcg9RaqP

00nPgrkKoh4AF-rQ5mh0iNK21vVB8_QdkZwrCS-l

KeKxdOaHmthL6x-u3kpcZJ6hFC4-UdR_T5pjjvWW

KW1VjzBw7o_BEwTSO64fp5pRBdeSsResTxkCHJuR

YYbVtwKTnQepmeJzkLCkGIZg_LY94_8BexZHwS39

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Posted (edited)

Thank you Mike:)

 

Havn't been an update for a while and this is because I had spended my time on finish my garage and on other garden projects. I am tired on the evenings so the build is lacking:( But I am finish soon so I can continue Sherbourne.

Edited by Jörgen

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Hi Jorgen, I've been trying to find this log as I am building same kit.

Can I  say you're doing  a very nice version I can only hope to do justice to mine.

Jon

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Posted (edited)

Thank you Edward. I'm sure your build will be great. Remember to not hesitate on try new things. That is what I am doing, just trying :). Also check Tonys log (tkay11). He has some very nice guides how to do things on Sherbourne.

Edited by Jörgen

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Posted (edited)

Hello all

 

Sorry for not posting for a while but I have to much to do home so the ship yard is in second place at the moment. But I have been able to do some small things. First of all I finished this small thing. It is Eduards Polikarpov  I-16 1/48.yERXcgr7ElhC0QoBK0YsKg6mL4vCkZNeQLkeraHJ

On Sherbourne it is now time to take care of the inner hull and prepare it for painting. As you can see in the photo so have the tree nailing damaging it a lot (i was not careful att all). 

oFCtQSLBpkAD2Vora1ZtPG-IKMEG0EAFpm785Db2

v9YvDd2ZyvqOz_iccjz6pjEu42fQGZaBoue4-QTh

What I have started to do is to build up the canon ports. I do it in this way so I can have a nice painted red edge that is perfect against the dark tree.

I will use Vallejos Mat red Model colour for the inner paint.  

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AtAGjt8NydQpp2wq4XlHrrHaG76QLPLcBhVPNnx5

This is how far I have come but I hope I will have more time soon. 

I have also started to convince my self to buy Chis Whattons new Alert kit from https://vanguardmodels.com/. I really want to try to work with Pear and boxwood before I buy it to my Vasa kit.

 

Jörgen

 

Edited by Jörgen

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Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
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