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Pelican, later renamed as Golden Hind, by Backer - scale 1/45 - Galleon late 16th century


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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/18/2021 at 1:43 PM, Barbossa said:

I don't think so Patrick. I'm afraid that poor bird is frustrated as the crewmembers hamstered all the toiletpaper. 😄

Serious : Wonderful work.

Thanks,

If the sea is rough enough, he probably won't need toiletpaper 🤣

 

And a small update, This time of year, I spend more time in our heated kitchen building military models. Then on my unheated hobby room upstairs.

 

Made the channels from the mizzen mast. I found 3 ways to attach the deadeyes deck, railing, channel. It is important not to make the channels of the mizzen mast too large.

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I chose the channels.

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Made an anchor rope.
3 strands of rope, twisted together and treated with diluted PA glue. After a few days of drying I got this result.

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A 144 mm thick rope was made for the Batavia Replica. That's about 3.2mm to scale, mine is 2.8mm slightly thinner, but my ship was smaller ;)

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The anchor ropes "disappeared" in these holes (no photos)IMG_20200324_185340.thumb.jpg.874ff1681e4fdb53468eed5aa0d6f099.jpg

And, finally, the stairs can be placed.

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The anchor ropes are out of the way for the time being.

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Next items to build, work in progress.

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Thanks for following.

 

 

 

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Small update.

Installing the mastfeet (mastfoot)


I first had the idea to replace some of the bolts of the mast feet with eye bolts. But later decided not to do this, just bolts.
The fore and bowsprit foot was a bit complicated, and i needed three parts for this.

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Mizzen mast

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Main mast, with pumps installed

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Fore mast and bowsprit (pumps are not glued here)

20210130_162707.thumb.jpg.1e0f9dc6b0655972498c563e6ee7a67a.jpg

Thanks for following

 

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Patrick,

 

Nice -- I'm working on sump pumps as well. What is that around the bases?  I'm not sure if I should directly glew them to the deck, or did sump pumps have some sort of "seal" at their bases  --Hmmmm?

 

Regards,

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23 hours ago, md1400cs said:

Patrick,

 

Nice -- I'm working on sump pumps as well. What is that around the bases?  I'm not sure if I should directly glew them to the deck, or did sump pumps have some sort of "seal" at their bases  --Hmmmm?

 

Regards,

Got this idea from the Batavia and Duyfken replicas.
These are 2 links to pictures on the internet

https://www.modelships.de/Museums_and_replicas/Batavia/gPICT0554.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5684/30935046281_9dfecd3598_z.jpg

 

How i build them starts in post 429

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

A small update


Two hatches were made in between production of the military models.
The hinges were metal color first. Didn't like this and later painted them in white and green.

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I also made a crown while building the Tudor rose. After hesitating for a long time to ad it or not on the model, it was also placed above the rose.

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And the first steps in rigging immediately went wrong 😳

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Corrected

20210307_100437.thumb.jpg.abef5771b1d6e5618086b40b863ac406.jpg

Thanks for following

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The first steps in rigging.
The idea is to follow the drawing and the Vasa as examples. 
The drawing is how it should apparently be perfect. The Vasa follows almost completely with some minor deviations. 

(And someone will see his work in some of the photos).

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Wire comes from Amati and Gutermann. 1 mm of Amati is used on the mizzen mast. 1.3mm Amati will be used on the fore and main mast. The Gutermann wire is about 0.5 mm and is used for the deadeyes.

Black for the schrouds and natural for the deadeyes.

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A "U" bent wire was made to hold the deadeyes in the clamp 

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First 2 schrouds.

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Black or naturel.. Naturel 20210308_133746.thumb.jpg.f53622dbf4c7c82eef42bf03d835cc57.jpg

This is what the result is. The naturel rope has had a wash with thinned mat Black
Knots yet be glued with diluted PA glue and then cut away the excess wires

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I will not continue on this before Saturday or sunday, If anyone here sees something wrong, "shoot".

 

Thanks for following.

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Patrick

 

Nice --

PS: on the backside of the shrouds (facing to the inside of the ship - where I would do the knots) - I found that Gorilla Gel CA is the best way to almost immediately secure knots - don't tighten TOO much - give a pull just after adding the tiny spot of glue - hold for a second  - The glue will then weave into the single loop knot and become  a super solid lock.

 

After the glue dries - couple of minutes - you can really tug on the loose ropes ends and cut with scissors as close to the locked knot as you can - without leaving a visible strand - works so well... and looks so good 

 

Also if you really want to;  the glue dries shiny - So I later add a small touch of flat clear paint to remove the shiny looking knots. 

 

For the ratlines - bit more work - I found that after the clover hitches sometimes the knots would loosen up and not "look right"  Gel CA also became useful.  --- Glad that I could be a helpful guide 👌

 

Another suggestion - CA Gel is not good for super small knots - but GS- Hypo Cement is perfect indeed.

 

Cheers my friend.....

 

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On 3/9/2021 at 9:53 PM, md1400cs said:

After the glue dries - couple of minutes - you can really tug on the loose ropes ends and cut with scissors as close to the locked knot as you can - without leaving a visible strand - works so well... and looks so good 

Indeed, looks very good. Thanks for the advice Michael 👍.

 

I did not use Gorilla CA gel, but CA gel from another brand (Pattex, easier to get in this part of the world).
I was a bit skeptical about this fancy plastic bottle at first. But with the 2 "squeezers" on the side, dosing is very easy. no hassle with needles or toothpicks. Just a little squeeze and always the right dose in the right place.

The thin polyester thread is  also lightly treated with the Tamya glue .

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Schrouds in place.

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Ratlines, 

The Model shipways Mayflower instruction (so much better dan the instructions with the Billings Vasa.)

Very helpful to me, now I finally understand what clove hitches are...

 

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Ratline spacing. 

7.5 mm at scale  1/45 is about  33.7cm in reality

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here they found 12" to 15"

 

Start "Ratlining"

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Knotted, glued, cut,  and lightly treated with diluted matte black20210314_131744.thumb.jpg.e30c5cc5c5167cc22d40ed56256658e1.jpg20210314_131845.thumb.jpg.50960f34554fea54571468b8097ba1aa.jpg20210314_131859.thumb.jpg.5c5acf7d368e648b9a6ef7f96e7f0562.jpg20210314_131949.thumb.jpg.bc221f2a9e7338206808c7758076bfbc.jpg20210316_090141.thumb.jpg.ef4fdb37572af0bb770746fc520afbdc.jpg

Result

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Thanks for following, comments and likes

 

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3 hours ago, Backer said:

Ratlines, 

The Model shipways Mayflower instruction (so much better dan the instructions with the Billings Vasa.)

Very helpful to me, now I finally understand what clove hitches are...

 

 

Patrick, the ratlines are very well done!

 

Clove hitch = Mastworp

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/16/2021 at 6:28 PM, G.L. said:

 

Patrick, the ratlines are very well done!

 

Clove hitch = Mastworp

Thanks Geert,

 

Bought specifically for this occasion and forgot I had it. (Forgetting things, one of my corona effects :default_wallbash:).

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The clove hitch, de mastworp.

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The forestay of the mizzenmast

Made 2 bloks.

Used the mold from de deadeyes as basis.

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Drilled 2 extra holes

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Then they are cut and sanded

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In place

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The "mouse" started from a piece of plastic sprue.

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in place

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Next to do are the backstays of the mainmast.

But first i have to make blocks. at the moment these are "think and test" work.

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And we are a little more organized. 
My late mother's old sewing box is back in service.
And my wife bought me a new tablecloth. For how long will this nice cloth stay clean ? 😇

 

 

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Weekly update.

 

Making blocks, hooks, eyebolts and rings.

With as examples
The Mary rose (16th century) blocks (general shape)

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And the rigging info of the La Belle (17th century) for approximately the dimensions. This is a pdf which is freely downloaded and very interesting

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Rigging "is very interesting" Even for Felix

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Nope,  zzzzz...

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Blocks

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Discs

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ironwork

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"Custom made" pliers

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Blocks collored and ironwork  soldered  

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ropework

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One side in place  

This is what the small beam at the supports of the channels is for.

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The problem of not having any belaying pins.
Not yet fully tied . I hope this can be the right solution ?

20210403_194635.thumb.jpg.e158b82140dd416afebadd0b5b7685ba.jpg

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Weekly update,


I started with the chains and the shrouds from the main mast. 

All this actually started in June 2020, but then I realized I had to make the masts first.

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/14188-pelican-later-renamed-as-golden-hind-by-backer-scale-145-galleon-late-16th-century/?do=findComment&comment=728985

 

Drilling the holes for the eyebolts and adjusting the channel a little bit

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Oops..

Miscalculated (forgot the cannon port). So, there will be 7 schrouds instead of 8

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Chain and block production. 

All chains have different lengths. So there is a lot of fitting and measuring

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Chains in place  20210407_184750.thumb.jpg.465751c2fb425e894c87a05eb0822376.jpg

Colored (mat black paint and pencil) eye bolts glued, and the 2 first schrouds ready.

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"Wip"  The next row on the other side.

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Thanks for following, likes and comments

 

 

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Update,

 

All deadeyes are provided with chains.

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Found that the iron "ring" around a deadeye calls a deadeye strap. With a head, a neck and a foot.

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The blocks for the fore mast backstays are ready. And now working on the next batch of deadeyes. 

And, was there serving around the shrouds or not in the 16th century??

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Thanks for following, likes and comments.
 

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Good day Patrick!

Nice job You did!

I served only first shrouds ,those which most closed to the sail...

How it was in those days I don,t know...

Probably there are more information You could find in Vasa forum/ or Vasa museum..

as far as I remember,Vasa shrouds on reconstraction shown partualy sèrved...

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20 hours ago, kirill4 said:

I served only first shrouds ,those which most closed to the sail...

Indeed, in some cases the first shroud was with serving.  

And yes, Vasa only has serving on 1 side of the mizzenmast (very confusing)

 

19 hours ago, kirill4 said:

Wonder,why You didnt use self made ropes but decided to use unprocessed sewing threads.

Sometimes I am lazy  😳

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I like this thread very much. Only just discovered it. I especially like the way you do your research. In my opinion it does not pay off often to try to build a model of a specific ship, even more so if the data are unsure and controverse. Much better to depict a type, even if you put a name on it later. You found a nice way in between by connecting with archaeological finds and manuscripts. So much better than simply using a plan made by someone who did not know what is right or not either.

My compliments Sir.

Ab

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49 minutes ago, Ab Hoving said:

My compliments Sir.

A compliment from someone with so much experience.

Thank you very much :imNotWorthy:

 

I try to do this as best I can.
It seemed so simple at first, find a plan and get started.
Actually, I'm glad I didn't follow a plan, this is much more challenging.

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This week has been very productive. The back stays of the fore mast and the shrouds are ready.

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The shrouds do not have a serving.
4 reasons
The Vasa ship appears to be in doubt, only the Mizzen mast has this on one side.
The front shroud is far enough back to avoid hitting the sail.
As mentioned in a previous post, sometimes I get lazy.
And I don't have a ropeserving tool. But since yesterday gears to hopefully make one.

And Gorilla gel (The 3 gram patex tube is handy but is empty quickly).

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Attaching the back stays to the channel in this way turns out not to be convenient. These ropes rub against the railing.
Presumably that is why this way was later not used animore and they were attached like the shrouds on the outside of the channel.

20210424_193431.thumb.jpg.5a57417644b30aedc77b2ddbd3136b7d.jpg

 

In the absence of belaying pins, hopefully the ropes were tied in this way.

20210424_193304.thumb.jpg.de57bc16c41759518449de0f1c2cce77.jpg

 

Current status

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Now first try to assemble a rope serving tool

 

Thanks for following, comments ans likes

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