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Restoration of Bassett Lowke "Albertic" by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100


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Any ideas about the black metal frame structure on the fore deck?

john I think that you are correct regarding them being a crutch for the booms, There is a similar framework at the stern.

 

 

The piece you've removed should be much easier to restore on the bench than in situ.

Druxey, yes you are right, what I find interesting is the combination of the nickle silver (German silver) and yellow brass, I am guessing they used whatever was at hand in the stores, since it was all painted white. The rear section is all soft soldered together, I think it will take less time to fabricate a new piece than to fight with straightening the twisted remains. It will serve as a useful guide though.

 

Michael

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Thanks Joe, we must have been cross posting.

 

And again thanks to all who are pressing the like button

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Keep going the way you are.  Think it all through before you start. It would be a shame to find out you did things it the wrong order and have to take it apart again.

 

Off subject,  I have not seen round nose pliers with such sharp ends.  What brand are they? 

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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I have not seen round nose pliers with such sharp ends.  What brand are they?

Hi Bob they are Lindstrom as are the flush cutters. the round nose are number 7590 and the flush cut are number 7291 The PDF product catalogue has some great technical data in it

 

I did not pay quite as much but they are the best pliers on the market as far as I can tell, the difference is like night and day I have a couple of lesser quality round nose and they cannot hold alignment as well and flex too much for some tasks.

 

One of the things that I make a point of doing is to use any remuneration on projects to improve the quality of my tools. These pliers are a joy to use.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Thanks Michael, I'll have to get some.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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it looks like your coming up with some good ideas Michael.  I like some of the test work you've done with the stays and guys so far...the whippings  are going to look so much better........the original ones are dreadful.

 

I had a nice pair of the small flush cutters.......Mac tools.    I broke them trying to cut that steel wire I bought a while ago.

Edited by popeye the sailor

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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I have and use those round nose pliers quite often. You can make incredibly small loops and hooks with it. We had a great local jewelry supply store where I spent many dollars on similar tools over the years. Unfortunately, the elderly owner recently died so all similar purchases must be made over the internet. But the experience is nothing like browsing amongst the thousands of interesting items he carried in his store.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Bob there are some good prices out there.

 

 

I had a nice pair of the small flush cutters.......Mac tools.    I broke them trying to cut that steel wire I bought a while ago.

Denis I have also ruined a good pair of flush cut pliers doing exactly the same thing. regarding the stays I am looking forward to getting the right gauge of brass wire then I will be able to replicate the correct strand count.

 

Greg I agree with you regarding browsing in the store, I spent a good hour discussing the round nose and the flush cut pliers with the owner. Fortunately his son is taking up the cause and is as pleasant and knowledgeable as his father. They both practice the epitome of good customer service. they have been serving the community for 30 years and it look by all accounts that they will continue. I have to visit their store most times I head into the city for supplies. I was able to try the different pliers with different wires in the store before deciding which ones serve my needs best.

 

Albert thanks for your kind comment.

 

Again thanks for all the likes and for those who looked in.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Made a start on the easy stuff first. The most damaged lifeboat is the one at the stern end of the boat deck.

 

post-202-0-75911100-1477435883_thumb.jpg

 

the damaged area was planed flat in preparation for some new wood I determined that it is sugar pine.

 

post-202-0-06339600-1477436095_thumb.jpg

 

glued to the new block

 

post-202-0-45559400-1477436144_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-99380600-1477436181_thumb.jpg

 

trimmed off the main block

 

post-202-0-77212400-1477436217_thumb.jpg

 

Used a pairing chisel to shape the new wood

 

post-202-0-76823700-1477436257_thumb.jpg

 

I used one of the other boats to get the shape right

 

post-202-0-13348900-1477436330_thumb.jpg

 

Next was the open boat that sits on top of the collapsed one, I used the #11 blade to create a smooth shape for the new wood.

 

post-202-0-40197400-1477436397_thumb.jpg

 

then used the #11 to do the rough shaping

 

post-202-0-03805000-1477436557_thumb.jpg

 

That's it for now I'm off to make supper.

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Hello Michael

 

It looks like a wonderful diversion to while away the cold dark Alberta winter months. Best wishes for a successful build.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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now that's high class........he's fix'in 'em on a pool table  ;)    that-a-way Michael!   the fix is on!!!!  ;)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Denis it's just a bit of green felt I'm afraid.

 

Greg two weeks!  I cannot make any gravy in only two weeks....but thanks for the compliment.

 

Druxey, it feels good to be actually repairing and not just removing broken parts.

 

Joel I was using the end bench vise to clamp the V table for cutting out the curved piece for the open boat and wondering how to set up a stop, and it just came at the moment so I dropped the table about an 1/8th inch lower to create the well.

 

John, yes I wanted to start doing some positive work as much for the inspiration as anything else, it cheered me up for sure to see some progress. I glued in the opposite piece this evening and will finish it off in the morning.

 

post-202-0-05287300-1477458118_thumb.jpg

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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They paintjob may be your largest chalenge.

Those old type of paints do no longer exist, I'm pretty sure that the colours went a bit 'off' over the last decades, so you have to match colour, 'structure' as well as 'age' in the paintjob. (and prepping the surface of the new wood, without damaging the old paintwork micht be tricky as well. But just a plain repaint of the whole ship is a severe sin from a restorers point of view.

 

I'll follow with interest.

 

Jan

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Jan is right: it's not only the original paint color, but patina and surface oxidation/atmospheric dirt deposit effect on that paint! Also, be beware of old paint: it may contain lead compounds. Please take precautions.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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I know Michael.........just wanted to make you laugh  ;)

 

you gotta have a good attitude.....I can imagine the feeling,  as you were tearing 'er down.  you chose a good place to start the process.   are you 'washing' the parts as you work on them?   wiping them down with a damp cloth,  will enable you to get an idea of the exact color.  it's quite possible that you'll need to mix paint to achieve some of the hues.   filler and sand on the repairs?

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Share on other sites

 

Those old type of paints do no longer exist, I'm pretty sure that the colours went a bit 'off' over the last decades, so you have to match colour, 'structure' as well as 'age' in the paintjob.

Ah yes Jan...that is why I still have this 40 year old Humbrol enamel, one of the best model paints that was ever on the market for hand painting in my humble opinion.

 

post-202-0-49122000-1477495768_thumb.jpg

 

 

Seriously though I hear what you are saying and my intention is to do as little painting as is possible. blending in a 1/16th line of paint will be a lot less hassle than a large repaint. The collapsible lifeboat that was the most damaged is about as far as I hope to have to go regarding replacing broken wooden parts. There are a few bits missing and I will tackle them as I get to them.

 

post-202-0-48084500-1477495816_thumb.jpg

 

I am going to use the enamel paint to fill the joint lines where possible this will take time to let the paint harden but will give me a lot of control over these small areas. In all likelihood Bassett Lowke used a very fine grind of enamel although they might also have used Lacquer, which is what we did at Allmodels when I was a young man in the early 60's we matched all our paints from the British Standard Colour charts I cannot remember the actual name of the Standards now  but we only used the primaries and black and white to make any colour we needed.

 

You are right in that this will be one of the most challenging areas but I do have a little background from the old school so I will be proceeding with a great deal of caution.

 

 

Jan is right: it's not only the original paint color, but patina and surface oxidation/atmospheric dirt deposit effect on that paint!

  Druxey, yes adding a little grime will no doubt be in order.

 

 

are you 'washing' the parts as you work on them?   wiping them down with a damp cloth,  will enable you to get an idea of the exact color.

Denis, my plan is to do as little to disturb the original surfaces as possible, the colour oxidation is already apparent regarding the areas of the deck that were hidden from exposure when I removed the structures from the funnel deck. The white will be the least problematic in my view. the most difficult I think will be the side of the hull, I will mix some colour let them dry after some initial test sample to get close, and then use the damaged area to test them with very small spots of the Humbrol to see how well they will blend.

 

The next picture shows the aft funnel structure and the area highlighted is where one of the tiny broken bits somehow avoided being swept up it is glued back on with carpenters glue. The vertical rectangular section was snapped completely in half and a section at the bottom was broken off as well.

 

The section highlighted on the collapsible lifeboat is one of the supports for the top boats and is the only pattern left, all the rest are missing from the port side boat deck, I managed to pull a small piece of similar Maple from my scrap maple drawer, so they will be easy enough to replace.

 

post-202-0-31951600-1477496892_thumb.jpg

 

time for some breakfast and a coffee.

 

Michael 

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Hi Michael,

 

I`m following your restoration with great interest, for its not only showing your progress in work, but here and there also a little glimpse at how the builders made it. I wish you that you keep up with the drive and pace and turn the "Albertic" to new blossom for display again.

I also have many over 10 years old  Humbrol paints, but most of them have dried out although the cans were closed.....

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Wow.  Very impressive project.  Hopefully you have someplace nice and warm to paint the enamels... :)    For the black lines, will you use enamel in a ruling pen, tech pens or Micron pens?

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I also have many over 10 years old  Humbrol paints, but most of them have dried out although the cans were closed.....

Hi Nils I consider you as one of the masters of this type of ship model, so any advice that you have to offer will most certainly be welcome. The tins I have seem to be OK after a while of remixing the pigment from its long rest on the bottom of the tins I use a piece of stainless steel that I salvaged from a wiper blade as the tool to remix

 

post-202-0-35188100-1477502224.jpg

 

The straight end works to dig into the pigment to break it up and the folded end works like a sort of potato masher once the pigment is mobile. 

 

 

For the black lines, will you use enamel in a ruling pen, tech pens or Micron pens?

Bob Not sure on this one yet, I might have to do a spot of practicing with my ruling pens and compasses, its been a while.

I have some very fine lining brushes so might go with that option.

I am reminded of a video I watched some time ago where someone was doing a decorative glaze on some china and they had obviously been doing the same motion for a long time and made it look like child's play.

 

The other thought might be to use the type of pens that are used for doing the Pysanka

but to use enamel instead of wax. and I would not need the heat either. This might be an interesting tool to sort out for painting.

 

Has anyone used something like this for paint?

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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I've only used the "flame heat" kistky, not the electric ones, and I've only used them with wax, but I found them to be trickier and less predictable than a ruling pen (and that's saying something...) 

If the existing linework is an ink formulation as opposed to enamel, the Micron archival ink pens may be a really easy solution...I've had great luck with these on various surfaces.  http://www.pigmamicron.com/

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Hi Michael,

 

perhaps, if of use for you, here two suggestions.....

 

cable cord:

I use very flexible control wire for flying wire control model aircraft in two different diam.

one line is 0,3 mm OD and consisting of 7 strands ( each 0,1 mm)  of tin galvanized steel wire. this can be easy and durable soft soldered and secured with mini metal beads

The other line is 0,5 mm OD and consisting of 19 strands ( each 0,1 mm)  of tin galvanized steel wire. this can be easy and durable soft soldered and secured with mini metal beads

 

Lifeboats:

here is a sample in scale 1:100 appr. 86 mm long,  for an open lifeboat with rimm and seats, its plastic, but when painted has a good appeal.... (they come 5 a pack for a very reasonable price)

 

Nils

 

 

post-3445-0-85881100-1477507575_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-3445-0-82844300-1477507581_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-3445-0-56695000-1477507654_thumb.jpg

 

 

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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one line is 0,3 mm OD and consisting of 7 strands ( each 0,1 mm)  of tin galvanized steel wire. this can be easy and durable soft soldered and secured with mini metal beads

The other line is 0,5 mm OD and consisting of 19 strands ( each 0,1 mm)  of tin galvanized steel wire. this can be easy and durable soft soldered

Nils I have some brass coloured control line wire in both .018" and .032" the original B&L wore is .028"

 

The hidden damage is now becoming more apparent.

 

I am also of the opinion now that this ship has been knocked pretty hard on some earlier occasion.the following pic shows two concerns I have

 

post-202-0-18931800-1477520203_thumb.jpg

 

within the highlighted area the cargo winch deck is sprung that is the same on both port and starboard. you can see that the underside of the deck is unfinished and not very clean.

 

The area below and just above the brass hatch is bulged a little and this is an old repair it is only on the starboard side.

 

My concern is that the cargo deck is flexible enough that I should be able to pull it back down into alignment by using the vent stacks as a clamp by fixing the base ring that sits on the deck so that as the vent is reseated into the main block of the hull deck the black rings which are loose would pull down the deck.

 

post-202-0-19621200-1477520950.jpg

 

Both the foremast shrouds and the stern-mast shrouds are loose and I am reluctant to tighten them to make them look clean because they will put an additional strain on the already compromised decks.

here you can see that the lifeboat deck at the bow is bent upwards in the same way as the deck at the stern, no doubt that pressure on the shrouds during the fall contributed to this.

 

post-202-0-98302500-1477521222.jpg

 

This brings me back to the funnels

 

I think that having the shrouds and stays more rigid and made to exact lengths and replacing all of them might end up giving the best solution. The following picture shows a new stay using the .032" brass control line wire it is brass plated steel. with some of the Bassett Lowke wire used as a serving to emulate the same look but neater.

 

post-202-0-10419700-1477521411_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-61309900-1477521468_thumb.jpg

 

 I could do this with all the standing rigging, it even has the wrong lay up as the B&L

 

help I'm falling down the rabbit hole........

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Don't panic! Take a deep breath and take things step by step.... You'll be fine. There are always hidden wrinkles to these projects.

 

BTW, you can get Humbrol paints online in Canada: www.sunwardhobbies.ca

 

I've had great service from them.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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