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I would like to make gratings for the Triton cross section the way it is done on Uwek's triton build log.

Problem is to get those saw kerfs evenly spaced. Any ideas for a jig or method.?

Marius

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I don't know if this will help, but when I made some boxes with square finger corners, I made a fixture that allowed me to make repeated cuts. I tried to show that below but it may not be very clear. 

post-246-0-08183400-1364602625.jpg

 

Assuming that you have a table saw and that the kerf of your blade is the same as the spacing of the grating, then you could go this way. The idea is that you make a plate that can be attached to the cross slide of your saw. The plate would have a dowel or square piece affixed as a guide. You start by cutting a slot in the plate, insert a piece of the dowel and glue that in place. Then you take a piece of wood of the same thickness and use that to align the dowel to left of the saw blade. Now you make another cut through the plate and that then becomes your fixture. 

I hope all of that makes sense.

 

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I just posted some images of building gratings on a mill, at my Bellona scratch build site. Very interesting challenges, these gratings!

 

Mark

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... and believed the 1mm gratings from the shop still were too big for my purpose ...

 

... and so the tests began ...

 

... and her is the whole story ...

 

Literature always indicates to use the circular saw with a small guide beside the blade. So far understandable and comprehensive and does not sound scary. A first test free hand prooved that my wood was suitable :-)

 

Fastily changed the machine ...

 

800_victory_22_0180.jpg

 

.... or not that fastily, because untill everything was adjusted to the 0.5 mm blade, the right hight of blade and suitable thickness of the guide, and smooth cutting worked, it took some time. But then putted stripes of 1.5 mm thickness to cut ...

 

800_victory_24_0325.jpg

 

... and it looked a little bit tattered, see the stripe in the front. So gave it some clear varnisch and the stripe startetd to bend in all directions :-( Used some plastic foil as a separation on the topside and clamped it against another piece of wood to let dry. And luckiely it came out straight and after the second time through the saw it looked clean, see the stripe behind :-)

 

800_victory_24_0326.jpg

 

... and this is the bounty: material for the next years to come :-)

 

So came the next task: Cutting it into 0.5 mm bars without breaking its tiny teeth and without the bars disappearing in the machine. The latter was easily resolved with some tape. The first came out of the problem, that with the standard guide, the line was rubbing against the blade. So made a new shorter guide that releases the bars immediately ...

 

800_victory_24_0332.jpg

 

... adjusted the distance with a 0.5 feeler gauge ...

 

800_victory_24_0339.jpg

 

... and glued same sheet on the side of the wood to get the fingers further off the blade. So managed to cut nice bars :-)

 

 

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Next thing is mentioned neither in any book: The cutting is just one thing - the gluing is the bigger problem ...

 

800_victory_16_3383.jpg

 

... used some soft adhesive tape and tried to put it together with 0,5 x 0,5 mm toothless bars - looks nicely uneven ...

 

800_victory_24_0341.jpg

 

... so printed a 0.7 grid onto paper and used transparent double sided tape and a loupe to fix them together. Nice meditational work :-)

 

800_victory_24_0343.jpg

 

So it is filling up:

 

800_victory_24_0344.jpg

 

The caliper is set to 1.4 mm.

 

And my little worker was so kind to lift one up to show the underneath :-)

 

800_Victory_347.jpg

 

... and the result is a cute 0.7 mm grating and soon I will be able to show where it will end up :-)

 


My litte helper was so kind to lift on grating up to show the underneath:

 

800_Victory_347.jpg

 

As promised, here is where the new gratings end up :-)

 

800_victory_lowerdeck_3401.jpg

 

Even the split into four parts can be seen :-)


 

All the best, Daniel

 

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Mark mentioned in his Bellona post that he had had some difficulties aligning the strips of gratings during assembly using the traditional technique. I've attached a few photos of a simple jig I made to keep the grating ledges in alignment while gluing up the gratings.

 

The jig consists of a square of wood with slotted recesses for the ledges.  On two sides stops were added.

 

post-505-0-01873800-1364692540_thumb.jpg

 

The gratings ledges are placed in the slots.

 

post-505-0-93885600-1364692676_thumb.jpg

 

The battens are now glued in place. I use dilute white glue as they are a press fit.

 

post-505-0-82992900-1364692838_thumb.jpg

 

The assembled gratings are removed. The round up has yet to be added.

 

post-505-0-63661100-1364692890_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Greg, that is very ingenious. If I can't make my self-jigging idea work, I am building this jig for sure. 

 

Mark

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Amazing what info one gets when posting a question on this site. Thanks a lot guys. I am going to test all these suggestions and will hopefully be able to retain  a method which suits my ability and tools. Apart from helping me these responses are helping to build info for the MSW site which we sorely need  after the loss we had.

Thanks again

marius

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At production of gratings it is important to choose the size of cells correctly. J.Boudriot writes that width of laths of ruster and intervals between them made 2 - 2(3/4) inches (54-74 mm). These sizes got out so that the barefoot foot of the sailor didn't fail in cells of gratings and at least half stood on a lath.

Below drawing from article Igor Kapinos http://sailmodel.ho.ua/articles/rusters/index.htm is given

illustrating the wrong lattice with too large cells. By the way, I recommend to look at this very informative and well illustrated article.

post-215-0-11926900-1366663958_thumb.jpg

Edited by Garward

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