ECHO Cross Section by Trussben - FINISHED - 1:48

[jml1083]

Hi Ben,

 

Looking good! You're on your way. Here is how I went about the chocks:

 

I glued my frames up right on the paper template, this way I was sure nothing got knocked out of whack. Where the chocks are I cut an oversized hole in the template BEFORE I edge glued the frames. I edge glued the parts of the frames that touch and waited for the glue to dry. I then CAREFULLY placed the template with the hole for the chock over the piece of wood the chock would be cut from. Using a very sharp lead I traced the outline right from the frame pieces themselves. I then sanded almost to those lines on my Byrnes sander. Once I was close i made very small adjustments with the sander until the chock fit tightly into the space allocated for it. There was always extra wood on what will be the inner most surface of the chock and that's what I used to guide the chock into the sander. It took a couple tries until I got good at it but once i did the pieces almost snapped together and more than one I had trouble removing a chock so I could add glue. I treenailed all of my chocks using boxwood treenails. I started with 1/32" x 1/32" boxwood and pulled them through a Byrnes drawplate. Some people don't like making them but I found it relaxing.

 

Good luck, you're off to a good start.

[TomShipModel]

Hi Ben,

 

Great looking to this point. I am a bit of a way from starting work on my cross section but, these build logs are really tempting me to get going. Reading them is going to say me quite a bit latter on. Thanks.

 

Tom R

[Trussben]

Jim - thanks for the tips on those pesky chocks, I think I have a method worked out now.

 

Tom - look forward to when you start, make sure to start a build log.

 

Well I have managed to spend a couple more hours, weather was soooo bad yesterday I had to stay in the workshop.

 

Framing square was made out of some 3/16 ply that I had, added 2 more supports for strength and stability.

 

Dead flat and dead flat 1 are completed and i'm pretty satisfied for my first ever frames, now onto frame 1 fore and aft of which has a shift - gonna be interesting.

 

ben

[mtaylor]

Nice and clean, Ben.  Looks very sharp. I'm looking forward to seeing more.

[JPett]

Ahoy Ben

 

Your craftsmanship has reached new a new level with this build. Amazing

[Rustyj]

Well done Ben. Those are very good joints and nice looking frames!  

[gjdale]

Nice looking frames Ben - a great start.

[jml1083]

I'll say this for you Ben, you are a VERY quick study! The close up photo of that chock shows it is perfectly made. Congrats!

[druxey]

Very nice work there, Ben. Those joints look great.

[42rocker]

Your clock joint looks great. As does the rest of them.

 

Later 42rocker

[Trussben]

Thanks for all the nice comments guys - I really appreciate the motivation it gives to carry on with the Frame 1 pair.

 

ben

[Trussben]

Question - I have got some bamboo to put through my Byrnes drawplate, what size hole should I draw down to and what is the corresponding drill size?

 

Ben

[Rustyj]

Hi Ben,

 

I pulled my boxwood down to a # 28 on the draw plate and a # 69 drill bit.

That was a real snug fit so you might want to try a # 68 bit too. Enjoy!

[dvm27]

Treenails on a ship this size were between 3/4" and 1 1/4" in diameter so something around .020" would be fine. That would be roughly a no.76 drill bit or the third smallest hole on the Byrnes draw plate. You can dip the treenail in dilute white glue and insert it immediately as it tends to swells up or insert, cut then paint over the treenails with dilute white glue (my preference) Treenails should be barely visible. 

 

I'd also advise testing on a scrap piece with the finish you'll be using to see the effect of the finish on the treenail grain.

 

Greg

[druxey]

Good advice, Greg.

[Trussben]

Thanks Rusty and Greg,

 

I shall start drawing down some bamboo tonight and see what I can come up with.

I'm not sure what finish I am going to use yet, was considering getting some sanding sealer and trying that out

instead of my usual Minwax WOP, any specific brand that you guys would recommend and have had good results

with?

 

ben

[druxey]

I use the stuff that model aircraft folk use: SIG brand. I dilute it considerably with solvent as the sealer is thick and syrupy.

[Maury S]

There is a water-based matte finish poly by Rustoleum that I really like.

Maury

[Jaxboat]

I Googled SIG as I was not familar with it. Of course, the first thing that came up was Sig Sauer. I would only have use for their products in ship modeling if the model was going very badly and I need to put it out of its misery      .

 

I was able to find the sealer by Googling "Sig sealer"  . SIG is a butyrate. This is very old technology developed for furniture finishes. It does a great job but the solvent fumes must be considerable. Do you wear a filter mask when applying?

Jaxboat

 

Bonus Cliff Claven factoid  : A form of butyrate was used to paint Ford Model Ts (it's a little known fact!)

Edited June 18, 2013 by Jaxboat

[druxey]

Good ventilation is a must, of course, as with any volatile solvent.

[ChrisLBren]

I use standard Minwax sanding sealer avail at any Home Depot diluted with mineral spirits 50/50 and wiped off almost immediately.  Greg (DVM) swears by the water based version -  even flatter than the oil based (which is hard to believe my deck on Confederacy looks dead flat with no finish whatsoever other than the caulking lines being slightly more accentuated).   

Edited June 20, 2013 by ChrisLBren

[Jaxboat]

I have always liked Minwax products. I will give both versions a try. I am always concerned about WaterBorne products because of wood grain raising but sounds like that is not an issue

Jaxboat

Edited June 21, 2013 by Jaxboat

[Trussben]

A good update, I have been busily making frames, only pair 3 and 4 left to make.

 

1st photo shows Aft 5 which has the 1 1/2 shift, using spacers to achieve it.

 

Also I have started installing treenails into the chock joints, I'm using bamboo drawn down on the Byrnes plate to the 3rd smallest hole #20 ( approx 0.018 ) and a #75 drill bit ( 0.020 ). Then using dilute white PVA they are glued in.

It takes a little time to get used to using the drawplate but I find that if I start with 1/32 x 1/32 squares of bamboo about 6 inches long it takes me about 30 minutes to make it - but i'm getting faster with every one I make.

Only thing I have seen ( or not if you catch my drift ) is that they are pretty much invisible once they are sanded flush to the frame - I expected to be able to see them a little , even with a little water used to clean the frame.

 

I shall add more when all the frames are made and treenailed and I'm ready to start raising them.

 

ben

 

EDIT - reposted missing photos 4-2-14

Edited April 2, 2014 by Trussben

[dvm27]

Well done, Ben! And don't feel bad - properly done treenails should be almost invisible.

[druxey]

Nice progress. Now you can imagine what it's like for Greg as he frames a complete hull!

[Trussben]

Hi Greg and Druxey and thanks.

 

I am really enjoying this first adventure into fully framed scratch building, this cross section is teaching me so many new skills that I can't wait to finish all my current builds and decide on the next.

 

Swan, euryleaus or Niaad.

 

I have already started researching doing the Indefatigable in the far future.

 

 

Ben

[gjdale]

Very nicely done Ben.

[rafine]

Very nice looking work, Ben. I'm impressed that you can get the bamboo down to #20 on the draw plate. 

 

Bob

[Trussben]

Thanks grant,

 

Bob - I have done some tests and have managed to get down to the smallest hole, but it breaks pretty easy at that size but its possible.

 

Ben

[Trussben]

All frames are completed and treenailed, I will post some pictures tomorrow after I get the dead flat frames raised.

I am going to use boxwood scrap to use as spacers between the tops of the frames and I will also treenail the frame into the rising wood for more strength.

 

Ben