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HM Cutter Mermaid 1817 by Cabbie - Modellers Shipyard - Scale 1:48


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Scare Bleu, yes i know starting another one. As stated I my Endeavour log

I am very time poor at the moment, but I need to do something.

Something, I can just sit down and model with, and not spend time sorting out what and how to do.

A couple of pics

post-18136-0-81471000-1479891759.jpg

post-18136-0-34124400-1479891775_thumb.jpg

 

it will be done as the kit is, except after looking around it appears, a binnacle needs to be added.

Cheers Chris

Edited by Cabbie
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Look at some of the other builds for this kit - it's not as accurate as it could be when compared with it's commander's sketches of it.This copy on Wikkie is a pretty good illustration https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6e/Mermaid_ship_%281817%29.jpeg. There are some others also available out there.

This may also help http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9173-hm-mermaid-rigging-questions-edited-by-admin/

 

 

Rick

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Thanks Rick

For the links, though I was thinking that I wouldn't be doing much research

for this build, and I did groan, when I saw what you put up.

If it is easy enough to decipher, and make changes they will be done,

otherwise the ship will be as the kit is. Thanks Chris

Edited by Cabbie
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If you do nothing else be aware that there is (probably - unless the mfg has fixed the instructions) a problem with the instructions when fitting the bulwarks. Here's a comment I made on another build of this model " Having just finished a build of this model I can add a comment for others - page 13 of this build mentions that there is a problem with bulwarks/ bow "  I have added my cap rails and extensions.. I am a bit dissapointed my keel at bow seems to have fallen a bit short of where it should be.. Stern could be a bit higher above rails also.   :huh:  I dont know how that happened,".

I had exactly the same problem and brought it up with the manufacturer, basically was told it was my fault even though I'd followed the instruction sheet as well as possible. So I went back to basics and rechecked all my work and still couldn't see where I'd gone wrong. Final thing was to check measurements - low and behold - there is a 2mm difference in height one end to the other for the bulwarks and although the fit appears better with the high end to the bows it should in fact have the lower end to the bows thus allowing the extra room in the bow/keel for the required drill holes.

The instructions just say "identify and fit" no mention of the 2mm difference - I did point this out to the manufacturer and was told that they'd fix this in their next review.

 

Rick

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Yee hah

A little modelling to update.

After separating all the pieces and doing a dry fit, only one bulkhead needed a shim  to

bring it up to the right height, then I made a build board to hold and glued it all together.

post-18136-0-27327900-1480496719_thumb.jpg

post-18136-0-28484900-1480496737_thumb.jpg

 

But one thing that is going to be hard to handle is the planking timber.

The 1st planking is limewood, which I have never seen before, and is very

hard and 2.2mm thick. it is meant to 2mm.

 

post-18136-0-45286200-1480497375_thumb.jpg

 

The second planking is mahogany .35 to .4mms thick and meant to be .5.

Modellers shipyard told me that the 2nd planking was mahogany, before I Bought it, but their

picture advertised shows a browner timber. Which I like the look of better.

(PS no complaints from me about it)

 

Yes, I know that I am meant to be keeping this build simple, but

I am going to thin down the lime wood to 1.5mm thick, which will still be hard work to use.

Then I am going to cut my own 2nd planking from some Kauri that I have, of which

I like the color much better. it will be .8mm thick. That will allow me to cut wider planks for

spiling if need be.

 

The mahogany that is left I am going to put on the deck, and the rudder.

Anyway that is the plan, we will see what happens

Cheers Chris

 

Edited by Cabbie
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Hi Don

yes I know fiddling again, guilty as charged.

Yes they are my filler blocks, I thought, after posting that i should have trimmed them a bit,

but with the aid of various tools they will be bought into line.

thanks Chris

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Hof

But if you are watching, you have to help.

 

A couple of questions for the brains trust, I have been fairing which was easy enough to do,

except for the bit, up to each side of the transom.

It seems to be a lot to take off, or should I glue some strips on to make the transom wider.

 

And how should the bottom of the transom be finished? with the curl as now, or straight across,

or as the plans have it, with a rounded bottom.

 

A few pics to show

post-18136-0-09360400-1481275936_thumb.jpg

post-18136-0-68213500-1481275960_thumb.jpg

post-18136-0-57193900-1481275974_thumb.jpg

 

post-18136-0-51869600-1481276014_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Hi Chap,

Don't know that I can be of any help here.

Is there a reason that the Transom is not as wide as the Deck?

I'm guessing that you have had a good look at plans and instructions further forward in the build?

 

Cheers....HOF.`

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Good afternoon Hof

Can't see any reason, there isn't any plans as such, just photos and colored drawings.

They don't show it too clear. The bulwarks are meant to run to the transom  and glue to it.

I am inclined to make the transom wider, and have less fairing to do.

Thanks Chris

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Hi Cabbie.

 

It's been a while since I finished my Mermaid so I went back and had a look at the video on the ship's construction that I bought from Modeller's Shipyard to remind me what I did with this problem. In the video the deck is faired back to the transom. I took a photo of my tv screen on pause at this point in the video. See it below. Hope this helps.

 

Steve

 

post-1505-0-66394600-1481344999_thumb.jpg

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I seem to recall I went the other way and shaved my deck area down to suit the transom, left the "curl" as is. You don't need a 100% fit up to the transom as the boat davits, gunwales and subsequent planking (both inboard and outboard) will cover any minor problems around the stern. As for the stem, stern, keel etc. I dumped the all the ply versions as they looked pretty bad ( can't disguise the ply) and cut my own from solid walnut. If you want to pop over (it's only about 180 km) I could show you all the modifications etc. that I made.  ;)

 

Rick

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Hi Rick. You say that you 'shaved' your deck area down suit the transom. That is what I am suggesting too :) That is how I would describe what is done on the video. The ply deck and the ply support underneath is faired (shaved) to meet smoothly with the transom. The edge of the transom is also faired so as to allow for a smooth run of planks. I have taken a photo of the transom of my Mermaid. See below.

 

Cheers

Steve

post-1505-0-64424400-1481347812_thumb.jpg

 

post-1505-0-54452500-1481347877_thumb.jpg

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Hi Chris,

Seems that the consensus is varied....

My take on things, if it were me, would be to do things 1/2 way, make the Transom a little wider and fair the rest in.

Don't know Chap.

I guess you will do what you will do, carefully consider the consequence, make a choice and do what feels right.

 

(Sorry, doing what feels right is the only advice that I can give. Have not seen this particular manufacturer/model before)

 

You are a woodworker, as am I, just be confident in your choice, I am sure you will....  :)

 

Have I helped?

 

Cheers....HOF.

Edited by hof00
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Thanks Rick, Steve and Hof

For the pictures and advice.

I have decided to glue half the amount on as Hof suggested, I found the off cut of ply sheet that

the transom was in, and have glued it in place. One reason for doing so is that I will be

able to have a large round on the bottom of the transom to plank around.

 

I will probably take off the 2 downward points, of the transom at the keel. They are right behind the rudder hole and at this stage

I don't see any need of them, but will leave that until I need to do.

 

Just another little question, What would have been the width of a hull plank on a full size boat

like this,150mm, 200mm?

 

 

Thanks again, Gents

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good afternoon mi Lords and Ladies

And merry Christmas, or a happy whatever you like to celebrate.

A little bit has been happening on the Mermaid,

2 blocks added in the bow to give the planks something to finish on.

The top planks under the gunwales are on,

and part of the Garbords are on.

 

First some pics

post-18136-0-63937600-1482632661_thumb.jpg

post-18136-0-25140900-1482632682_thumb.jpg

post-18136-0-52559800-1482632700_thumb.jpg

post-18136-0-34214200-1482632714_thumb.jpg

 

And now a question, or is that 3? or more

How should the garbord plank finish up to the stem post?

I believe that they shouldn't finish in a point?

Is it correct in what I am doing?

Should it be done as a hooked plank, with the next cut from a

wider plank to allow that.

post-18136-0-46169200-1482632978_thumb.jpg

 

yes i am a fussy bloke, this is only the first planking, but

I figure that this is the best time to get the technique right.

 

Cheers Chris

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Thanks Rick, yes air con is on and the modelling room is a great place to sit under it.

Might add the blocks, will see if I can do without.

It is a bit hot and dust today, but 36C is ok if you don't have to go out in it.

 

Hi Dupree thanks for looking in, BUT, be careful

following me, you don't know where you might end up.

Cheers Chris

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If you haven't already then a read through some of these should answer your planking questions quite well. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php I notice that you haven't installed the false keel as yet - I found that it was easier to install then plank up to it rather than try cutting any excess planking for the keel to fit.

 

Finished lunch and having a rest?

 

 

Rick 

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Reason I used blocks at the end was to make pinning for the last two bulkheads easier - also used a lot of Post Office rubber bands - the broad red ones hold planking down quite well and a Leggo brick placed under them helps direct the pressure correctly.

 

Rick

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Hi Rick haven't got started today yet, the Admiral is at work and will be home soon.

Then we will get stuck into it.

i left the false keel of at this stage so that i can sand to the right thickness before the 2nd planking.

I am very conscious of the planks fitting up to it, and will glue on before 2nd planking.

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Hi Chap,

Merry Christmas!!

I enjoy the references to HVAC.

No worries in Wellington, a nice. mild 15.6 (O/S) 21.6 (I/S) No Wind, no Earthquakes tonight, so far....

(Southerly Zypher coming from Australia. :))

 

Your question/s Chris, sorry I am no help here. (Garboard Strake.... I believe that it's a very "Peculiar" shape, I should know, I've done a few.... Wot you have done at the Bow looks good, same at the Stern and Straight throughout the length. Where it meets the Keel is where the plank takes an "Interesting" shape.

 

The Mermaid looks great!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

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Finally garbords are on, and rebate has been cut into the stem.

Now its time to plank.

post-18136-0-99022700-1482872758_thumb.jpg

post-18136-0-50866400-1482872775_thumb.jpg

post-18136-0-45152600-1482872794_thumb.jpg

 

It is a bit unconventional leaving the false keel off,

but that will make it easier to get the thickness right.

It will be fixed on before 2nd planking

I will probably make it a bit higher, as it is now

there is not much showing under the planking.

 

hooroo Chris

Edited by Cabbie
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