Jump to content

Lady Nelson by mmotherw - Victory Models - Scale 1:64


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I bought a model 25 years ago, the Baltimore Clipper Sidmouth 1815 by Constructo. Started on the keel, bulkheads and false deck and then got stuck. Having no internet in those days that was the end, but I was good and kept everything in theirs packets. So hopefully have not done to much damage and will be able to finish it later.

 

post-25568-0-86106800-1480184119_thumb.jpg

 

So I realised that the model was to difficult for me and having read information here decided to start on a easier model, the Lady Nelson which I do like the look of.

 

post-25568-0-62858800-1480184146_thumb.jpg

 

So I've bought the various tools and model and starting my build log, as I know I'm going to need help. I also had an attempt at building my own keel clamp, which after a couple of modification seems to work.

 

post-25568-0-92703900-1480184145_thumb.jpg

 

Now time to read the instructions, study the plans and look at few build logs and we're off..... :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great to have another cutter on the block. Looking forward to your build. As you've seen, there are lots of builds you can refer to. The Sherbourne is very similar to the Lady Nelson in construction, so have a look at Gregor's, Dubz's and Stockholm Tar's builds for some really fine work and hints. I learnt a lot from them, as well as from very many other builds on this forum.

 

Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

I've done a parts check and I've a couple of questions for those who have built the Lady Nelson.

 

1 the parts list has 3 gratings but I do not seem to have them. There is a bag of parts which look like they would make the gratings thou so is this bag the gratings?

2 the brass stand posts have a hole through them but should there be bolts or screws which go through these holes?

 

Thanks for any help

 

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually I've never used the brass fittings as they don't seem to fit to well.I use the wooden cradle either stained or painted. If you're going to use a "pin" between the fitting and the keel you'll need to drill the holes on th keel well before any deck fittings go on.

 

Rick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm building the LN myself but not doing a build log because I'm using Bob Hunt's LN dvd practicum and promised not to divulge his techniques. I'm not too far ahead of you so I will give you some non-Hunt tips if I can and also inform you of my errors as I discover them. I've almost finished fairing the bulkheads; next step is cutting the rabbit joint.

 

I'm curious about the model shown in your clamp photo. Why are the bulkhead tops cut off at that stage? How will the bulwarks be attached?

 

Cy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Christmas is over and the New Year has started so time to make a start on the Lady Nelson.

 

I took the bulkheads off the sheet and tidied the edges and did a dry fitting and found that a few sat a bit lower than the top of the false keel. Having read a few blogs I saw that adding a small bit of card was a simple way to raise them, so I did that first and that brought them in line.

 

post-25568-0-60934200-1483560681_thumb.jpg

 

I then found that the bulkheads were loose and could rock side wards so I was worried that they may not glue in place horizontially so I added more padding on the sides to make them a tighter fit.

 

post-25568-0-87529200-1483560711_thumb.jpg

 

I've not glued them in place yet, I'm going to bevel them first. That's coming next.... :)

Edited by mmotherw
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well I've started removing wood :huh: and the beveling of the bulkheads. I've done the front and back 3. I think they may need a bit more, but I was thinking may be glue them in place first, as I want to fill between stem and bulkhead 2 and between 9 and 10, so I can get a better angle (SimonD has a very nice example of filled bulkheads).  I have tested with a plank for fit but having never done this before I can't be to sure of flow of the plank.

 

Also not sure whether to do a rabbit or not, there seems to be mixed reports on this one with the keel becoming very thin. I'm interest in any advice.

 

post-25568-0-88083100-1484773175_thumb.jpg

post-25568-0-67074700-1484773177_thumb.jpg

post-25568-0-15467700-1484773178_thumb.jpg

post-25568-0-05252800-1484773177_thumb.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Ok it's been a while but have made a some progress on the bulkhead fillers. I've only done the first two and last two, not sure if I need to do the 3rd's. For my first piece of carving I'm quite pleased, but if you see anything wrong please let me know.

 

So I guess next is to glue down the false decking and add the Prow and the Keel, might leave the Rudder Post off until I've done the first layer of planking.

 

BowAbove.jpg.08292dfc7121e205243b06fc3d3ce0f0.jpg

 

BowSide.jpg.2565f7835b255a1827a57d62a6de7817.jpg

SternAbove.jpg.075e539b2b4ed6f1d9ab102596c604b5.jpg

SternSideB.jpg.93b2ef3525902451ac57f0698e1b9071.jpg

SternBehind.jpg.991133e8f999cd68d3c857c7e15d2833.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh I'm not recommending you follow all my steps, just see the places where I found things out of alignment or otherwise problematic, like the bulwark strips and their crazy top line and confusing gunports.

 

In this case you should see where I eventually added filler/reinforcement to all of the inter-bulkhead gaps because in every case if you don't, the first planks will not follow a fair line but have flats between bulkheads that are at best hard to totally remove, and they will flex under sanding leading to dips that need filler. But at the same time to make it right, those filler block outlines need to follow the correct curves, you can't just sand them flat or you have the same problem.

 

If I did it over, I'd use filler blocks everywhere.

 

That said, what you have looks good. One thing you should do now also is ensure perfect symmetry on the last transom frame - make a template from one side and flip it over and make the other side match. I didn't do that and had some annoying work to get it right later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another one, make sure the bearding lines established by the lower parts of your filler blocks are exactly symmetric and the bulkheads on both sides end the exact same distance from the keel. When I went to cut the rabbet for the first planking I found my two bearding lines looked good but didn't agree in places up to 1/32" and that would have been replicated to the planking and the finished model.

 

I didn't do this, but if you want to be sure of hull symmetry you can use paper strips, cut one and make it follow one of the bulkhead sides and cut it to the exact length of one side, then lay it on the other side of the bulkhead; if they match you're good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi,

I have done a bit, put on the false decking and the bulwarks. I did have a bit of a problem I had filed down my fillers a bit to much so had to apply filler to pad out. Been a bit busy with sunshine and golf but studying the planking. Been reading various blogs, measuring bulkheads and planning but I think I just need to have a go, experience counts. I don't want to get scared off by how well some people do the job. I need to fail to succeed, it is my first model.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just take it slow and remember that the first layer of planking can be experimented with and will take a reasonable amount of sanding. Any problems arising don't hesitate to ask if you're at all unsure - we've all been there with our first (and with me 2nd, 3rd etc) models. :D

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...