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Bluenose II by Heronguy - Artesania Latina #20500 - Scale 1:75 - 2nd build

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This will be my second model ship.  The first was just started a month ago and is a simpler version of the Bluenose II (scale 1:100).  Rather than finish that before starting this model I'm going to try to learn on the 1st and apply it on this one.  I have no idea if this is a foolish idea but here goes.

 

This is a slightly older version of the kit than is currently sold.  

 

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This kit came with French language instructions.  Online I found a set of articles on this model produced by John H. Earl (http://www.modelboatyard.com/bluenose2.html). I decided to follow his instructions.

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I thought I was ready to set the planking batten for the 1st band.

 

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I was unhappy with the batten shape at bulkhead #8.  Rather than continue I emailed John H. Earl who had offered advice with his instructions.  John graciously replied with some suggestions and an admonition to put more effort into shimming up the bulkheads as necessary and bevelling the bulkheads. It was advice I was happy to receive.

 

More work on the bulkheads and then back to placing the planking batten.

 

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I was much happier with the results.  Time to shape the 1st planks 

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Planking in progress.

 

Doug

 

 

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Hi Doug,

I built the older version also. Mr. Earls' website is where I got some instruction also, albeit, several years ago. (I thought that John had [passed away?)

This incidentally was my second build after tackling the A/L "Daykit" of Bluenose II

 

Will be interested in your progress and have plenty of Photos of this if required. (Unfortunately, the Web Site that hosted my build log closed down, ship modellers forum)

 

Looking good thus far!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

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Hi Doug,

I built the older version also. Mr. Earls' website is where I got some instruction also, albeit, several years ago. (I thought that John had [passed away?)

As Mark Twain said, more or less, the rumors or my demise have been greatly exaggerated!  :D  Still alive and kicking although a bit more slowly every year. I retired in September of last year and have been enjoying lots more time to work on models. I still maintain the website and am currently working on a scratch build of a Chesapeake Bay buyboat.

 

Doug - looks like your BN2 is coming along well.

 

Cheers -

John

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My sincerest apologies Sir!!

It was something I read on the shipmodelling forum a little while ago....

 

I'm pleased that you are sill very much with us!! :)

 

Yup, all getting older, Wiser?

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

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Hi Doug, thanks for the help on my last question about the Bluenose steering wheel. I'm a while away from building my Bluenose but I think I'll follow your build for instruction and information.  And by the way, if you look at my log for the Mare Nostrum, you will look first hand at what learning is all about.  I have redone more work than I have done, but trust me, I have learned a ton with that build.

 

Good luck and I wait patiently for your posts.

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I read your Mare Nostrum tonight. I think we're both on the steep part of our learning curve. I actually have 3 models on the go. I thought then1st would be where I could make most of my most serious mistakes and the next two would follow quickly enough that I would apply what I was learning. I may slow down progress - 3 hulls to fair, 3 hulls to plank, ... You are making good speed compared to me.

 

Lots of great advice aboard MSW!

 

Doug

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Thanks Peter.  Are the extra 2 blocks there to provide enough wood to drill the mast footing?  Looks like an easy fix since the planking has just started!

 

Doug

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Doug stern schooner in the set are wrong. I corrected it a bit.

 

Sorry, it's all Google translator.
:rolleyes:
Stern  -  корма
Food  -  їжа, корм
 
With greetings
Peter

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Well the 1st belt is finally planked.  There was a short diversion while I tried to figure out decent ways to shape planks and bend them if necessary.

 

My jig for planing planks just used a pair of metal strips set to hold the wood strip on edge.  To stop the wood strip from slipping I added a metal stop that holds the wood strip bent and creates enough friction to keep the wood strip in place.

 

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Once I had one strip profiled according to the planking dimensions I'd sandwich it between 2 or more untouched strips and plane the new strips using the 1st one as a template.  Of course I had to be careful not the plane the template down - that seemed to work out well.

 

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The second jig I wanted was for edge bending strips.  I've adopted the dry heat bending approach using a painter's heat gun (which is nothing more than a hairdryer on steroids).

 

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I'll drill more holes to hold different curves as I need them.  The pins I used to bend around were from a shelving unit with adjustable shelf positions.

 

Here's the hull so far.  It is not as smooth from plank to plank as I hoped/expected.  I'm disappointed in that, but know from my other build that a bit of sanding and filling will fix it.

 

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post-26957-0-01247300-1483193260.jpg

The planking is complete and I'm satisfied that it went pretty well.  (It'll be better next time won't it?).  I still have to figure out how to remove some material from the bow where the planks overlapped the false keel.  

 

post-26957-0-23318800-1483193280.jpg

 

I'm spending time thinking about best approach before I commit to the blade or file.

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I like the planning jig and the bending jig you made.  I hope you don't mind but I will likely steal those ideas when I start my Bluenose.  I do know with mine they say the hull has only a slight curve to it and bending would not really be necessary, the wood could easily be put in place without any additional work.  However, I have learned how important getting the wood to the right shape is prior to installing so I will likely be bending anyway.

 

It's certainly coming along nicely.

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Hi Derek,

 

Go right ahead - also make improvements and let me know what works for you.  I'm a newbie ship builder as well as a non-woodworker so my ideas are pretty unsophisticated!

 

I used the plank bending jig almost exclusively for lateral bends - trying to emulate what Chuck Passaro promotes for planking.  WhenI tried (yesterday) to bend the planks for my Krabbencutter hull (much more curvy than the bluenose II) I found my pegs were too short (10mm planks rather than the 5mm strips from the Bluenose II).  II that case I went to the plank-bender (soldering iron with a big head on it) .  I'll have to hunt down some longer pegs.

 

You'll enjoy the Bluenose.

 

Doug

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A good idea from the forum that I really like.  There is a narrow walnut piece between the quarterdeck and the foredeck.  It needs to be shaped to the curve of the deck.  Tape some sandpaper to the deck and use that as your sanding block for the strip.  Get the right curvature (by definition) every time.

 

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Finally back to paying some attention to this build.

 

As mentioned earlier I'm generally intending to follow John H. Earl's suggestions for modifying the AL kit.  However my 1st deviation was in the planking and waterways.  Rather that install the waterways 1st and plank at the same level as suggested, I wimped out and planked first then added waterways on top (like the AL instruction suggest).  John's mods to the deck involved cutting the supplied planks in half lengthwise, and laying them in a curved pattern (on the afterdeck) to more closely replicate the real ship.  My attempt to split the deck planking lengthwise was less than satisfactory so I took the different path.  

 

It turns out there are consequences (one of the lessons I keep learning).  In this case the consequence became evident when adding the bulwarks. John's mod replaces the supplied plywood with a spiled strip of basswood.  This is required to fit the transom mod:

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The new bulwark is constructed from the basswood strip (about 2 planks wide) and then a stack of 1/16" square strips.  There is plenty of overlap on the foredeck for attaching stanchions to the 1st bulwark stripped hence to support the stack of 1/16" strips.  However there wasn't much overlap left because of the elevated waterway mention above - the consequence!

 

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In order to attach some stanchions I glued some pins into the deck, drilled holes in the bottom of the stanchions, and glued the stanchions to the deck.  They provide a solid base for the rest of the bulwark.  Consequence avoided!

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 Nice going, Doug. I hope you don't mind terribly if I steal your jig design when working on my schooner "Atlantic" model. Following foreign language or badly translated instructions can be a real bear. As you seem to have discovered a few posts ago, Google translator is frequently less than spot-on in its renderings too. In fact it often reminds me of the old Monty Python skit in which a guide book translates requests for directions into such nonsequitors as "Please fondle my bum" or the famous "My hovercraft is full of eels!"

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Thanks Professor,  I welcome ideas from you all and if by chance any idea  I mention is useful then I'm pleased to share it!  Google translate is pretty cool but hardly spot on when it comes to specialized terminology.  Not usually as funny as Monty Python though - but then again its all in the delivery!

 

Thanks Scott.  I'm looking forward to working more on this model as I get its little sister moved along a bit further!

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As I mentioned above regarding the bulwarks and waterway and the consequences to making changes without enough foresight, I have a new consequences to add.  

 

The current step is to cutout the scuppers.

 

They were pretty easy to do on the foredeck (still some cleanup to do) because the bulwark piece at the foredeck is such that the scuppers are cut in the middle of the strake so there is lots of supporting wood around each hole.

 

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On the other hand, on the quarterdeck, because of the limited overlap in that strake, the scupper holes tended to splinter the wood and I lost the wood that was behind the stanchion.  Lots of fixing to do here!   

 

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on a happier note she's looking more like a Bluenose II hull now!

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