Jump to content
Heronguy

Bluenose II by Heronguy - Artesania Latina #20500 - Scale 1:75 - 2nd build

Recommended Posts

Doug,

 

 

Thank you for answering my request with those perfectly taken pictures as well as the information of the tool.

 

upon close examination I couldn't help my imagination from running wild with it's multipurpose It's a must have.

 

now looking at my old sorry looking 3rd hand which I tossed out the window (should have opened the window first! LOL)

 

the Admiral decided for the sake of safety  to simply order for me a new 3rd hand just like yours, (amazing what a none needed fake bandaid can do after cleaning up broken glass Lol)

 

looking forward to this very nice build 

 

Jay

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I decided that I would step the masts before rigging.  I gather that I may want to do rigging before the masts are stepped in more complex builds but I need the experience of rigging this way to convince me of the challenges before I abandon the "obvious" order.

 

My jig for getting the mast raked at the correct angle was very simple.  

 

DSC_9627.jpg.b22b046ad3da6cbc2aa255a6133d670d.jpg

 

IMG_2057.jpg.00ccd4c2cb2740023ab26c98051414e6.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am experimenting with a method for preparing the lower shrouds.  I like the appearance of the shouts being served both at the mast top and at the deadeye.  Using Syren Ship Company's Servo-o-matic it is easy to do the serving.  The experimental part, and the part I'm most concerned about if getting lengths correctly.

 

The experiment used some brown rigging line for the shroud and some black sewing thread for serving.

DSC_9642.jpg.dc50ba6dda829d61fbd00063cf7565fb.jpg

 

I measure the length I wanted for the shroud (actually 3 measurements - the length of the serving at the mast, the length of the serving at the deadeye, and the distance between the edges of those two servings - I call this the brown length).  

 

My 1st attempt was not spectacularly consistent as you can see.

IMG_2079.jpg.f4a4dbc9580a87caeaf4fb86ddf79696.jpg

 

For the 2nd try I refined my measurement methods and achieved better results.

 

DSC_9650.jpg.136092889b382fdf360bbc9a47051af1.jpg

DSC_9652.jpg.74c3a46ebc65a44cc3f50c88ee9aaa3d.jpg

DSC_9654.jpg.e9bd5b50b6062ae6594620a8a7382977.jpg

 

I'm supposed to have 15 mm between upper and lower deadeyes - looks pretty good.

 

So what's the problem?  Each pair of shrouds is going to rest on the previous ones at the mast.  That will change the length of the brown length.  Furthermore each deadeye is at a slightly different distance from the mast top.  So is this method too cumbersome and error prone - each shroud pair has to be individually measured.  

 

I can't see any easy (i.e. Serv-o-matic friendly) way of doing the serving at the deadeye ends after the shroud pair is on the mast.  If I could for the serving once mounted the deadeye spacing could be adjusted more easily.

 

Any pointers to other ways of accomplishing this?  On my previous build I tried using the deadeye spacing jig and seizing the shroud at the correct spacing - but in that build I didn't serve the lines at all.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can use much the same technique with served shrouds as you do with those that aren't served. Start with a longer-than needed piece of shroud line. Put it on your serving machine and serve only the center part that will go over the mast. Then, put the shroud on the mast and temporarily make the loop (hold it with an alligator clip). Then, using your deadeye jig to hold the deadeyes the right distance apart (note - your jig needs to hold two deadeyes at once), wrap the free ends of both shroud lines around the upper deadeyes. You can then mark where you want your serving to begin and end. Then put the shroud back on the serving machine and serve the ends between the marks. Then you put the shroud back on the mast, seize the loop at the masthead and then seize the loops at the deadeyes.

 

Note that the serving at the deadeyes come well above them as shown in the picture below. There should be two seizings as well. In your picture, the served part of the shroud is cut way too short.

 

Cheers -

John

 

deadeyes.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

John,

 

Very useful advice as always!  Thank you.  I'll do another dry run using your suggestions and then hopefully can make actual shrouds.  It will be nice to make forward progress not just sideways "progress". 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Tigersteve said:

Somehow I missed this build. Looks good. 

Steve

 

Thanks Steve.  I keep circulating between various builds.  Makes each of them proceed at snail's pace.  I'm following along on your Pinnace.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good, it was my second build as well before I started the HMS Victory.  I learned a lot building it.  It was also Artesania Latina but apparently  the european version kit is quite different. 

 

Robert

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Bertu said:

Looking good, it was my second build as well before I started the HMS Victory.  I learned a lot building it.  It was also Artesania Latina but apparently  the european version kit is quite different. 

 

Robert

Hi Robert,  Thank you for the comment.  I looked at your build several times.  The use of natural finishes and the colour scheme is very lovely.  I did notice that there were a number of differences between my AL version and yours.  My kit was the older one and has a different AL kit number so I guess they did a major revision at some point.  I too feel like this has a lot to offer in the "learning department" although I suppose that comes with gaining experience on any build!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Seventynet said:

I just read through your build Doug. You are doing a great job. I'm going to have to seriously consider building this kit someday.

 

Ian

 Hello Ian,

Thanks for dropping by.  I'm following your Brazerra build with interest - I have a Marisstella kit on the shelf and I think the exercise in understanding plans will likely test me!

 

The Bluenose and Bluenose II are such important symbols to those who grew up here that I think all Canadian ship modeller's should build one at least once!  I think you'd enjoy the ship.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you've made some nice progress since I last looked in.   I made a small jig for the dead eye spacing......I don't serve my lines though.   I use different thickness threads to achieve pretty much the same outcome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small disaster tonight.  Walking away from my work desk my sweater caught the bowsprit and the Bluenose II followed its predecessor and sank (i.e hit the floor.

IMG_2144.jpg.47259301985015c543d559ea987598b6.jpg

IMG_2147.jpg.bf227d12fe2f11fdb765767372b2c45d.jpg

Damage wasn't too bad   - the keel broke off along the glue joint (easy fix), the main mast and the bowsprit likewise can be easily reglued.  The anchor chains can be straightened out.  I thought I got off really really easily until I noticed that the hull had been holed.  Hopefully once filled, sanded and painted it will not be too noticeable a blemish.

IMG_2149.jpg.55960a667f63b113b382e039da2ca585.jpg

 

 

Lesson learned? - naked modelling?????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's too bad! Very easy to do though. I snapped a mast off my Constitution by swinging my light around when it wasn't high enough to clear. In any case almost anything can be repaired.

 

Naked modelling? I'd be VERY careful with that. I have a tendency to drop my xacto knife a lot.

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, David Lester said:

That's too bad! Very easy to do though. I snapped a mast off my Constitution by swinging my light around when it wasn't high enough to clear. In any case almost anything can be repaired.

 

Naked modelling? I'd be VERY careful with that. I have a tendency to drop my xacto knife a lot.

David

`

It's a strategy Ive developed over time - fix one problem and create two others - kept me thinking!

 

Fixed up everything but the small damaged hull area - I was lucky this time.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Nirvana said:

Ouch for that crash, but it looks somewhat easy fix, it could had been worse.

I know you will fix it!

 I wasn't even very upset by the upset.  I figure it is like a rite of passage for ship modellers.

 

Thanks for the encouragement!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This schooner has been languishing on the shelf for a few months awaiting the motivation to work on the rigging.  When the @xken's Ratliner tool was released I decided to give it a try.  My use of the Ratliner is documented in this forum.  The main mast shrouds were made that way.

 

Once the shroud set is placed on the model it is still necessary to reeve lanyards through the deadeyes.  This has in the past been a step I found straightforward in theory and frustrating in practice.  I found a small enhancement to the process that helped me a alot!

 

As recommended by others on MSW I use a piece of bent brass wire to temporarily connect the upper and lower deadeyes at the desired spacing.

 

IMG_2740.jpg.2f717769097ea409dd6b089f90e35b27.jpg

 

 I've bee frustrated by the tendency of the wire to slip out before the lanyard is threaded.  Solution turned up in my daughter's earring box.

 

IMG_2741.jpg.d0c8c1e7ea908028623e0dd72ebf6197.jpg

 

On a cheap pair of ear studs there were these small rubber/plastic keepers.  Easy on, easy off, but no slip!

IMG_2737.jpg.21b008582add8fa9f675645aee5654da.jpg

 

With the pair on it was easy to wrap the bottom end of the shroud around the deadeye and clamp it to the shroud above and then proceed to reeve the lanyard.  Once the 1st wrap is made the keepers are removed so they don't interfere with the threading.  Works for me.

 

The foremast shrouds and ratlines were done in the usual way - shrouds 1st then tied the ratlines.  The mainmast shrouds were done with the Ratliner.  

 

IMG_2796.jpg.0277307eff9da850a8300ff676a45d8d.jpg

 

Don't worry about the forestay - I'll tighten it!

 

I'm looking forward to more rigging - gotta conquer it sometime so why not now?

 

 

IMG_2742.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

glad to see your getting back to this one.......you must have repaired all the damage {even the hull}.   I made up a tool similar......two pieces of wire soldered together with a handy dandy handle jutting out from the middle.   it will only do one size lanyard though,  so I want to make a couple other in different lengths.

5a6b4ec31abd0_lanyardtool.jpg.dcd1cc608898d3ce7f9f4d2ce1f67463.jpg

it can also be used to insure the center hole is in the correct position, on the dead eye in the channel {that is, if CA didn't get on it}.   you did a great job with this model......it will be good to see her finished  :)    I know it's not the right time of the year........but short sleeves or roll them up please  :cheers:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice little jig popeye!  Getting the deadly (spelling correction is wonderful!) holes properly aligned has been a challenge for me.  Also I've found that the deadeyes provided with this kit were really poorly made - holes unevenly spaced.  I might have replaced them with better quality one but I was feeling pretty stubborn - they came with the kit so I'll use them!!  (bad attitude I fear).

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

part quality can be a pain......I'm not into waiting for parts,  unless it's for the inventory.   the part has to be really nasty,  for me to do it.   I was stubborn in the beginning.......but I got tired of guessing the shroud length.   they look more natural,, if they are off a little......but I started going too far out of whack for my taste  ;) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To Heronguy:

 

I, also, am looking for the English instructions and the plans for Bluenose II model 20500.  I started it several years back and we have moved twice and lost the plans and instructions.  If you or anyone else has completed their model and would sell the plans or a copy, I would be most interested.  I live in Southwestern Ontario.

 

GBE

ebedw@hotmail.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...