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Sultana by Overworked724 (Patrick) – FINISHED - Model Shipways – Scale 1:64 – Solid Hull – First Wooden Model Ship


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They look good! "An artist must suffer for his art." At least you seem to have done that for your model!:-)

Edited by thibaultron
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Patrick

 

Looks like it may be a little too late this time as your P & Gs look fantastic, but next time possibly you could look into using Evergreen plastic. I comes in almost any thickness and width, some of them almost as thin as paper or light card stock. Also you can find plastic like paper in most craft or office stores.

 

Another possible source for stuff like this could possibly be waterproof notebook paper. You can find "Write In The Rain" tablets at most outdoor stores. Cut strips laminated with CA would make them stiff and a little thicker to match your need. I have never tried this method/paper but it seem like it could work without breaking the bank.

 

Something to possibly play with next time. The ones you built this time look perfect!

 

Lou

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Thanks Ron/John!

 

Not certain that I would classify myself as an artist...more like a 'stubborn hacker'. 

 

Funny....after I mounted the current rudder, I my mind started racing on what other materials I could have used...since my head got stuck on 'wood' (i.e. paper) and metal (i.e. copper sheeting) for the P&G's.  Sitting at my desk, I realized I could have used plastic and paper clips as well.  We have some clear plastic file folders from Japan which are just the right thickness.  And the small, plastic wrapped paper clips (I like those...they have a good 'grip' on paper when you use them) would be perfect for the pins.  If you straighten out the paper clips, you can glue the hinges to the 'pin' with the plastic on...and strip away the plastic just above the hinge!  It would work - and you would not have to worry about gluing metal to metal. The stripped paper clip is just about the same gauge as the 22g wire I was using earlier.

 

Going to try that a bit later and post the pics. 

 

The reason I am fussing so much is because the hinge is non-functional (locked in place).  Since the hinges are paper, they are fragile, and I am a bit leary of it not lasting until completion.  This was also the reason why I made a couple of additional rudders and hinges.  I used wood glue to mount the current rudder...so if the current one gets damaged, I can simply clean it up, and mount a new rudder/hinge assembly I will have sitting in the wings. 

 

On a positive note, I looked at the Sultana this morning, and she did look like she passed a milestone!  =-)

 

 

 

 

Edited by Capt'n Fluffy McDoogles

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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OMG Lou - we posted our notes at the same time!  I was just thinking along those lines!  Thanks for the follow up!!  =-)  Will take some time this evening to put together one to see how it looks....if anything, I want to experience.  =-)

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Map (like the nautical topographical map used during sailing) paper would work as well...now that my mind is going that direction - water proof paper would be an interesting attempt as well.

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Patrick

 

Looking forward to you doing my experimenting for me while I sit back and watch! B)

 

Not really, today is one of my babysitting days for my youngest grandson so no building for me experimental or otherwise. Not unless I want to have to constantly avoid the "help" of a three year old! In fact I went to my building area after his last day and he had taken a bunch of my very small strips and stuffed them into the openings for the stern windows like a bunch of straw, breaking it all into somewhat small pieces in the process! :( Oh well at least he is showing an interest in building ships and not just spending all day on video games.

 

Keeping the watch on a great build.

Lou  

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Well. Tried and failed on the plastic pintles/gudgeons. But that’s ok. At least now they are just irritating, and not exhausting and intimidating!!!

 

Some progress...Finally got the stern fashion pieces on which complete the stern. I cheated. I said I wasn’t a good wood carver. Make them out of sculpy (cool stuff that sculpy). Not too broken up over it. I made them by hand still...:dancetl6:

 

Pics below.  Can now plan a final coat of tung oil before starting to work on the bow area. 

 

Moving on!

 

 

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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  • 1 month later...

Tales of my demise have been slightly  exaggerated. But work did get in the way. 

 

Progress:  

 

Decided to make my own chain plates. Chinese soldering iron kit and flux was 19$. 26g silver coated wire from Hobby Lobby was 4.59$. Learning how to get down the technique was about 10K$ of my personal time. (I was a terrier in my past life...quit is a dirty word!).  Finally got the plates to a place where I can look at them without gagging. 

 

Made a a little jig to setup my deadeyes.  Nothing awesome...just looking for reproducibility. 

 

Decided to examine how how to make the cap railing stanchions. Finally decided to try something ridiculous. Since using square stock of basswood is boring, I wondered if I could use some Japanese toothpicks I brought with us from our April trip. We shall see. 🤔

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Patrick

 

Good to see you back and your nose at the grindstone! Looking forward to some more fine progress.

 

Lou

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Ok. Poop deck rail stanchions are done. I bled profusely (again) for my ‘art’ and took the time to snap a pic of the proof. The admiral was not impressed but I was able to squeak an extra pity beer from the larder to help stem the blood loss and numb the pain. :cheers:

 

I decided to try the toothpicks in a different way this time. Gotta love it...all the trunnels are toothpicks, so why not the rail stanchions!  Besides, they look pretty good and not as boring as the square timbers that are called for in the plans. 

 

Also finished painting the channels and chain plates...paint is drying. 

 

Moving on. :dancetl6:

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Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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I think you may be milking it for the sympathy factor........... And possibly the extra beer. B)

Now get back to work, I have the same toothpicks and model and I want to see how the look mounted.

 

Lou

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Hey Lou!  You don’t list the Sultana in you “on the shelf” list!  

 

....and if course it was for the beer!  It fills me with creative inspiration !....or is that the beer fillling my bladder?....whatever!  

 

:cheers:

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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In truth...it's hard to look at a lot of the builds on this forum and not feel a bit out of place.  I am really in kindergarten here...and sometimes I feel like a hack rather than a wooden ship modeler.  My work is so basic....and I can see now that the Sultana, as a starter kit...was not exactly the best choice to start this hobby...and a solid hull now feels equally (if not more) challenging that a plank on frame.  The kit is dated, and needs significant rethinking from the perspective of someone who would like to begin this hobby.  The problem solving is fun...but my going is extremely slow...however, I believe I will be picking up the progress a bit more this Christmas season...soon I'll be carving into the bulwarks again to make room for the bowsprit...(gasp)

 

Step by step...:pirate41:

 

 

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Patrick

I must disagree with your assessment on the quality of your work. Whether its creative juices or full bladder you are doing what appears to me to be a fantastic job. I am not sure I agree with the assessment that building a solid hull is all that much difficult than building a plank-on-bulkhead double hull. When you do the first planking on a double planked hull you pretty much have a solid hull that you use as a base for the second planking using thinner wood. But that is me and others may not feel the same.

 

I do agree that the kit is dated and that this is proven by the method you are following with your build. I could be wrong but if you finish this model using Chuck Passaro's modifications/improvements you will be the first on this forum to have done so. That in and of its self will be something to be proud of. If you are in Kindergarten then there are those of us who are still in Preschool!

 

I picked up my Sultana this year after reading Chucks posting and finding it for something like $30 on eBay. It's an older kit but like you said the kit has not been changed in forever! I will add it to my pending list, even though the list is starting to look more like a hoarding list!

 

Lou     

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Hi Lou!

 

You got a great deal on your Sultana kit!  (I, too, am guilty of hoarding...but there are worse things to hoard!)  And Chuck's practicum is, by far, the key to achieving confidence for starting up the hobby with the kit.  My goal is to get that first solid completion under my belt, put her under glass, and sit back with a glass of my favorite blended scotch and just look at the finished model...and list every single little mistake I made.  =-)

 

I'm fairly certain I will be able to complete work on the hull and start getting into the spars/masts/rigging fairly soon.  In truth I am also pretty curious to see how the finished poop rail will look as well!

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Got to admit that the painted chain plates turned out well. Tried bending a spare chain plate into the loop of a stropped deadeye and it bent easily without the paint cracking. (Using Tamiya paints)

 

Also really needed to see how the cheapie ‘toothpick’ stanchions looked. (Toothpicks are cheap wood and during painting they did get thready...but it’s all good). Had to also carefully drill the holes into the cap rail deep enough to give the stanchion pins (26 gauge wire) enough bite to grip the hole. 

 

After setting them in, they actually look pretty good!  Need to sand down the tops a bit flatter to set the poop rail evenly, but all in all a pretty good result so far. I think the toothpick stanchions add a bit of zing!  The square stanchion don’t look as elegant. 😌

 

Note:   Drilling holes in my model raises my blood pressure!  (Cured with a glass of blended scotch. TGIF)

 

Moving on....

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Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Patrick:

Your Sultana is looking very good. Impressive work. The stanchions came out well. If you had no said they were toothpicks, I would not have guessed.

 

Russ

 

 

 

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Drilled in the hawse holes in the bow. Fun stuff. Heart attack city. Was thinking I was going to scratch the deck, hull, drill unevenly, etc. but it worked out. Was a bit more complicated as my bulwarks at the bow are not as high as those pictured in Chuck’s practicum. Upon examination, I think my bulwarks are more in line with the plans...a bit shallower at the bow...there just enough room to drill the hawse hole between cap rail and deck.  

 

Aligment was was a challenge. I used string and a pencil. Haha. Marked point on inside of the bulwark on both sides with a pencil, then drilled a pilot hole (#37 drill bit) on both sides of the bow. I was off center a bit and the starboard was a bit low. So as I went up consecutively into larger drill bits using my pin vise to widen the holes, I applied lateral pressure gradually as I drilled to try and compensate a bit for the drift of the original pilot hole. 

 

Proof is is in the pudding. Came out fairly decent. Used a toothpick to clean up the fringe wood splinters in the holes. I can always widen again if needed, but tested the size with the rope needed and it seemed ok.

 

took me a while to do this little task!  Done for the night!

 

Moving on. 👍🏽🍺

 

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Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some progress!  Made bowsprit and jib boom. Need to make bowsprit first in order to carve out the bowsprit hole/gap in the bow. Tricky work.  

 

A couple things...I did not glue that part of the cap rail on the direct middle of the bow, so cap rail was easy to cut out with a #11 blade. Err on the small side and widen it as you go. Since the bulwarks are soft wood, a round and elliptical file made quick work of the gap.  Taped up the deck to keep from scratching it...but decent result. 

 

However....the stem is too bloody short. There is a magnificent gap between bottom of the bowsprit and the top of the stem. Easily solved by a wood block filler. 

 

Next time will drill out the holes in the bow BEFORE adding the deck or cap rail. :default_wallbash:

 

Miving on.... 

 

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Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Made little block to adjust height of stem to accommodate the bowsprit. Sigh. Looks awful but it will do the job. Will stain/glue/sand later. 

 

Miving on....

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Drilled in the pin holes into the cap rail for the timber heads. Did not glue in at this time since I wanted to ensure that I would not be crowding them in the cap rail, since I  still need room for rings, anchor, etc. also wanted to see the effect and if I was better off making them from straight blocks. 

 

Overall, I agree with Chuck’s thoughts in his practicum. The carved timber heads make a nice accent to the bow. Will glue on during the future ‘deck furniture/fixture party’ I plan to have after the stem/cheeks/channels/etc. are on. 

 

Moving on...

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Great job Patrick. Can't wait until the next installment! She is truly going to be a model to be proud of.

 

Lou

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Thanks, Lou!!!  (Shhhh. Don’t jinx me!). I think the reason I am going so slow is because I’m afraid of rigging. :dancetl6:

 

Side note. The Admiral is always amazed when I show her something new on the ship. Halfway through my excited explanation, she yawns, blinks, pats my shoulder kindly, and smiles. I have a sneaky suspicion she isn’t listening to a word I’m saying but can’t prove it. 

 

Second side note. This morning the Admiral asked me how my ‘gibbon’ turned out. I told her that it was a ‘jib boom’ not a gibbon. Then she yawned, blinked, patted my arm, and asked me if I wanted more coffee. 

 

Seriously.  

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Patrick

 

I think that we may be living under the command of the same Admiral! Unlike you though I KNOW she isn't listening. In fact she hasn't listened to me for the last forty years! "Yes dear, that's fine dear" is just another way to say "If it doesn't sparkle and fit around my neck or on my ears, how could it be important?"

 

At least you get a second cup of morning coffee!

 

Lou

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Love is blind. Thank God for the respite of the Shipyard. :cheers:  Aaaaargh!

 

And yes, I appreciate the Admiral’s coffee. (I’m no fool...I know which side my bread is buttered!!  ;))

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Ok. Moving on. Decided to tackle the ship display board and mounts. 

 

Display board was was chosen for sheer cheapness. Pine board from Hobby Lobby. Width of the board is same width as the main yards. 

 

Mounting holes match the holes already drilled into the ship currently used to mount hull on the keel clamp. So, easy enough to match those up. (Note that I have a spare mounting board I used to double check the holes I drilled into the display board! 👍🏽)

 

Decided to try to mount the ship on wooden balls. (Also a Hobby Lobby special buy...what can I say...the Admiral is a frequent customer and she likes me to use their daily coupon!). Lined up on the board they look like little wooden snow men...my intention.  The keel will sit on top of the balls.  I always hated those metal chess piece mounts...wanted something more elagant and simple/rounded/without edges.  Ships are all curve, so why thrown jagged metal at it for mounting?

 

The mounting screws are #6 zinc wood screws.  Need a bit longer screws than those pictured to ensure the screws are well set into the meat of the hull...final mounting should put ~ 1.5” of screw depth into the hull. My objective was to give a viewer a full and unbroken view of the keel...the ship would have the appearance of balancing on two wooden balls ‘a la bubble balancing’. 

 

Yes...many of my club members will frown upon this...but it’s my model! Besides, if I can get this thing completed and under glass I will be happy! 

 

Moving on...

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Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Carved out the knight heads. Used square dowel, 0.1-in (2.4mm). Same technique as the timber heads. Pics below are useful if you are still fuzzy from chuck’s practicum. It’s actually fairly easy once you get the hang of it. Will paint tomorrow and attach at liesure after the bowsprit is on. 

 

Moving on... 

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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