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Sultana by Overworked724 (Patrick) – FINISHED - Model Shipways – Scale 1:64 – Solid Hull – First Wooden Model Ship


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75% complete on the ratlins...good grief, what a chore. A couple challenges:

 

1. I note that the shrouds over time have relaxed since the day they were initially installed. Not certain what this is from...perhaps the miniature rope relaxed over time. They did not relax to the point of being slack, just not as taught as the first day.  The lines were waxed...if that means anything. In future, will plan to do the shroud/ratlins more closely to make the install of the ratlins a bit easier. Looser shrouds make ratlin install a MUCH longer chore...and not a fun chore since the shroud tends to kink, and the ratlins tend to more easily pull or distort the angle of the shroud. 

969B5C11-3C73-4C79-ABFF-46688E00B455.jpeg.1747382fe9c4c61704846b84bdbd83d9.jpeg

2. Ratlins should be installed to be parallel to the ground (sea). This can be a bit of a problem as your eye tends to drift or tilt to be parallel to the deck. So I found myself really needing to focus the knot placement...and a little bubble level might be useful in future models!!!

 

Moving on. Trying to be consistent!!!

:piratebo5:

 

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Well - I'm 90% done with my ratlines.  I'm not posting a photo, because the last shroud I've done seemed markedly different in appearance than the other three.  I've been staring at it for a while, and it finally dawned on me why it seems so different...the fact is, my technique seems to have improved over the last three sets of shrouds.  This final one seems to have less noticeable distortion of the side shrouds...giving it a more symmetrical, and narrow, appearance versus the other three sets that I've completed.

 

Sigh...CRAP.  My eye is magnifying the difference...and it's bugging me.  So, the question is whether I redo it/them...which would require redoing both sides...or whether I live and learn, and simply move on with the next steps in the build?  I don't know why I'm being so hard on myself...this is my first wooden ship...and it can't be perfect.  (Perfect fell by the wayside a LONG time ago)

 

But -  a couple of things I might do different....

 

1. The miniature rope seemed too heavy (at least for me with the tension I had on th shrouds - which might not have been enough to keep them from distorting as I tied the ratlins)...I used Chuck's recommendation of 0.008" rope....but I found that pulls or pushes the shrouds - depending on whether the ratlin is too taught or slack...it's a maddening balance of ratlin tensile strength versus the vertical taughtness/resistance in the two shrouds you are connecting.  I would use smaller gauge rope/thread next time.

 

2. I was think of using a hairclip (flat duckbill clip) stylists use to hold curlers in ladies hair...I imagine putting these on the shrouds above and below the area you are applying the ratlins might help you keep them more aligned.  Just a thought...

 

Moving on...or am I?  (conflicted...)

:unsure:

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Hi Patrick

I of course don't have any pictures to base my opinion on as you didn't post any, but when have I let lack of knowledge get in the way of saying something?

 

I suspect that your shrouds are just fine and it is only the fact they are standing there all by themselves with no other rigging that makes their "shortcomings" stand out to you. By the time you add all of the remaining rigging, especially if you intend to add sails, you may not even be able to see both sides if the ship at the same time to even make the comparison.

 

Having said that, IF you want the practice then doing over is always a way to get it!

 

I have not personally done it, as my Providence build is presently on hold but my intention was to take two relatively thick and flat planks that were at the right width to measure the proper spacing of the ratlines and clamp them in place to the shrouds as I worked my way up. One in front, one in back. That would create a clamp on the shrouds locking them in place while you tie the ratlines and tighten the knots. At the same time they create the proper spacing so that each line is even and straight. Unclamp, move up,clamp and repeat.

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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16 minutes ago, lmagna said:

I have not personally done it, as my Providence build is presently on hold but my intention was to take two relatively thick and flat planks that were at the right width to measure the proper spacing of the ratlines and clamp them in place to the shrouds as I worked my way up. One in front, one in back. That would create a clamp on the shrouds locking them in place while you tie the ratlines and tighten the knots. At the same time they create the proper spacing so that each line is even and straight. Unclamp, move up,clamp and repeat.

Hi Lou --- this is exactly what I was thinking!  Having a upper and lower 'stabilizer' to minimize the movement of the shroud as you tie your knots...it also keeps you from putting lateral stress on where the shroud crawl up and over the trestle trees. 

 

I'm not planning adding sails - only rigging.  With that being said, I think I'll plan to move forward.  This ship has been a great learning experience - time I started approaching it as such and stop expecting a perfect result.  And perhaps you are correct - the impact of the shrouds will be minimized once everything else in place.

 

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Here are a couple pics.

 908094AB-EA72-41C5-BC63-ADF18ABC056C.jpeg.92010565a169749d2ac7cd8028de9278.jpeg

C6DCE2B4-5277-499E-AE4D-F8FD88335EE1.jpeg.4de46948508aa3c64b9b09d1ae86f175.jpeg

Hmmmm...well, when not looking at the shroud dead on, it still looks pretty good. 

 

These shots show the difference a bit better. 

D7A5DC37-9F4E-4C9E-8356-F8FAADD36AB3.thumb.jpeg.73ba4af1bb585cc36886117125aa5caa.jpeg

6B64ACF8-477A-4FA0-A6D3-F8EAD7B66F88.thumb.jpeg.efd4b9aada7ea568cc1f65792d8f6ad8.jpeg

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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I think it is your imagination. They look fine from here. Another case of being your own worst critic!

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Thanks Lou/Ron.  I’m probably being overly critical. I did some searching and the frustration of ‘hourglassing’ and dissymetry is not uncommon, especially as folks develop their own skill/technique. I’ll finish them up today and move on.  

 

The builder sees the mistakes magnified x10 over.  The Admiral just shook her head and told me it looks awesome...then gave me a glass of wine. 

 

All better!  :cheers:

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Ratlins are done. For my first time doing shrouds and ratlins, not a bad result. I learned a lot, and have a good idea of how to improve my result next time around.  My little rigging tool I made from a dowel and needle I used extensively and actually found it more useful in helping to tighten up and position the knots. 

 

Here are are some photos. As mentioned, my last set of shrouds showed minor ‘hourglassing’ mid’way through...I decided to live with it...live and learn!!!  

 

337D7B73-F716-42AD-BA0B-5AA43766BB80.thumb.jpeg.ebebd7d14d7ca62d35af46568afe4c15.jpeg

583BF432-1916-46AD-8F0C-4FA5E23E6502.thumb.jpeg.ee0b083e9b8065f0cd1bbc069e5563a7.jpeg

081A0671-DB26-4C3F-867B-7A7370667698.jpeg.96e52331aa73761a05f01f648615948b.jpeg

C2A37809-6450-4E2F-8CE3-6FB08111A8A1.jpeg.7ced7649a6476f22692997178b723214.jpeg

7E4579C1-A6B3-40F6-A75C-4CD6390A7A7D.jpeg.7409a4907a9a6fca39d9caf840e0ae45.jpeg

1ACA298F-B49D-4E71-8943-B828D63E73AC.thumb.jpeg.cdb0bce67ee1b11076fda2cfcead3ecc.jpeg

FC9C798A-2763-4A16-8DD0-44C188C52532.thumb.jpeg.6f61ebcc2d277a528731b2560b75cbae.jpeg

13BCCE2B-CEBC-41C2-873B-67F94394BB29.thumb.jpeg.8c46ad35aaccc58e1cdc5201e5b9ed85.jpeg

Moving on!!!

:dancetl6:

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Off to the Emerald Isle for business the next week. In between church and packing...I printed out my itinerary on our inkjet.  Decided I would fuss with the idea of flags for a few minutes! 

 

Took some washi paper my wife bought for me during our last visit to Japan and taped it to a clean sheet of paper.

181C6635-D893-40C5-99C5-F79B24BFD714.thumb.jpeg.e4134fe283e3365008a3464854b83c7c.jpeg

Then, I printed out the page from Chuck’s practicum to see what the paper did.

B4132455-1D8C-4B8F-9352-445FEBDEAFF3.thumb.jpeg.64c7d48218d42acc3dde17c71fedf47e.jpeg

Well, to my surprise, it held the ink well. Also, upon wetting, it’s very easy to shape as it is extremely thin. Just ran the trial flags under room temp water and 10min later had the shapes below.  Ink did not run. 

08218A3A-8B67-457F-93B4-678C9D5563E9.thumb.jpeg.25f8ddb4bb6c172313f2f7d1d4aa54e1.jpeg

I think I have a pretty clear and simple way to make my flags. 

 

On another note...the Admiral made breakfast this morning and said there’s a deadeye in her cooking pan. Confused, I went over to take a look...and sure enough, there was an egg-xact replica of a deadeye. Pun intended. 

D17A82B0-4F29-4890-9CC1-B7CBBAE8533F.thumb.jpeg.dd8aa62dcc41385bb4ba7b3b1db7b3ca.jpeg

Moving on...have a great week!

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Nice flags but the eggs are a little out of scale I think. You need to find some micro chickens.

 

Maybe you can find some among the Leprechauns on your trip! See you in a week or so. 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Happy St Paddy’s Day!  Well, back from Ireland...windy and raining the whole time. 🇮🇪❤️ Gotta love the Emerald Isle. 

 

Well, I used my drilled out deadeyes to make bullseyes for the main stay and main top mast stay. They might be oversized as Chuck was cautious to avoid...but I think it turned out pretty nice.   I tied them to the bullseyes attached to the deck eyebolts, then glued them on afterwards. Left myself enough slack to sieze at the main mast and main top mast while slightly increasing tension. Might be backwards, but seemed the best way to assure the lanyards on both bullseyes were of equal length. 

783F0D75-ADD1-4AF8-B7F0-0601B5736518.thumb.jpeg.73b436d570cc4ea14683b23d74c767d1.jpeg

F30E234B-029F-4ABA-AE2D-E3131ED4CBCB.thumb.jpeg.df6e3fc82c89dabaafd2877467415ed2.jpeg

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8904A980-C5FE-4305-8B36-4BFFD91B9A56.jpeg.9f97fbec77ae1f18c5113419ee9ad944.jpeg

I threaded the block and then rigged the attachments to the main and top masts. 

6DF98831-D4D2-4AD5-8E5D-A7B8AB7F0AC2.jpeg.34878834f09bc90bd32196093b15ca49.jpeg

6EB4909B-DFA0-46FF-92BC-9A850B5398B8.jpeg.d57898c9d3e154526a64f00edf582696.jpeg

98356347-B8A3-48C5-A923-96EC496E47B0.jpeg.572fe95cb5eb2600ed6a264bbff029a5.jpeg

And on the culinary side, my wife made cheesecake muffins and said she found deadeyes again!!!

541CA5EB-12F9-467C-A86A-1E73DA50B514.thumb.jpeg.c033a36871413f8cd090278f23979126.jpeg

 

🤣

 

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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What a great first model. You are learning a lot from chuck’s practicum. Before you know it you will be sitting back looking at a completed model thinking to yourself, “I made that!”  

 

And then your wife will be asking, “where are we putting this thing? 😉

Steve

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Thanks, Steve!  Actually, I’m learning from Chuck’s practicum, folks who visit this blog with constructive criticism and ideas, my mistakes, doing things outside the instructions and the practicum, reading other people’s builds (and their mistakes and learnings), and reading outside references...etc.  So many places to learn. 

 

It dawned on me that the joy in this hobby is manifold...the joy of creating something you can take pride in, the community of support who also build, overcoming problems and mistakes with success, the continual learning of new skill sets, learning fascinating maritime history, and simply getting lost in a great and wholesome hobby!  

 

:cheers:

Edited by Overworked724

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Today was the traveller construction that goes on the jib boom. Chuck’s practicum describes this really clearly. However, I used a brass pin so I could blacken it...also, I did not seal the loop with CA. Instead, I soldered it together and smoothed it off with needle files. Pics below. Straightforward process but it took a while because I dropped a few attempts!!!

C39980AB-FFAB-44D5-ADD8-F6296CBEC7DA.thumb.jpeg.1341ed392b65c381b24302b462fb8f8a.jpeg

C7466E92-7BDE-4750-B795-597D4F843BA9.thumb.jpeg.b546a5ff2518d4f77295ea87c0719949.jpeg

6EAD037D-64A4-4538-9252-118D555E2C85.thumb.jpeg.925f26633d6306a02336659ed9df1d76.jpeg

CFCF0D0E-5A34-425F-8340-E74B69BE59E7.thumb.jpeg.73460b642e371cd5b37947625f1a91b8.jpeg

5F83FA37-27B2-45B7-A771-8E63F65F332A.thumb.jpeg.63b52f404f0bcda8b9dfcd29d71384b6.jpeg

3F1B32A9-B3A1-4EA9-BB0E-A590447F1E81.thumb.jpeg.676759d47c62ec6d425c57f5e0fa0593.jpeg

Moving on!!

:dancetl6:

 

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Great work as always, The darkened brass seemed to work out for the best.

 

That Jedi mind trick you used on your wife seems to be working quite well. She is seeing them everywhere. Now all you need to do is when you drop one get HER to find it!:D

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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3 hours ago, lmagna said:

That Jedi mind trick you used on your wife seems to be working quite well. She is seeing them everywhere. Now all you need to do is when you drop one get HER to find it!:D

Haha....right!  🤣

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Found a great idea from another forum member here...using kindergarten counters to make nice rope coils. Worked like a charm. Fun stuff!!!  (If I find the link I’ll post it)

F260FC63-D084-4111-BE55-9EEB198E4524.thumb.jpeg.d8c95beec6deba9691b271e4e4cdfda3.jpeg

8240173B-6CDC-4E36-85FE-C518EA1BF632.thumb.jpeg.2bc7e6cdd8b6c0a11cc65cac85cf5162.jpeg

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76FAD98C-292C-4CC5-A37E-1B0B85807799.thumb.jpeg.0c068e06b3c6b236f499e24a3c1da669.jpeg

Also got my outer jib stay and fore top mast stay in place. Traveller looks good. 

0612EC93-F8D5-4E8C-BAD4-2150172B1710.jpeg.77229b95af1f96bf7c607e4f5ddd6db8.jpeg

Moving on...!!!

:dancetl6:

 

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Today was shroud cleat installation day. Chuck’s practicum mentions glueing then tying them in...not certain how the heck he did it. I opted for a more straightforward method...I glued the cleat to the line, then lined up the cleat on the shroud, and used a touch of CA to lock it in place. I then tied a simple slip knot which was also dabbed with CA. It gave a passing result, but next time I will research this part a bit more and open up some options for me...because this was no easy task. Little bastards are hard to get on lined up correctly. 

 

Heres a few photos.

23F8A37D-8363-4743-98B9-46B87E7C5492.thumb.jpeg.179055a5e7282f3d64e5de1a89d2966f.jpeg

9CBC2323-CB33-4CE4-8E92-5E337E157521.thumb.jpeg.e334d4a4217cf078780ae265d3899a34.jpeg

7EB8FC28-0840-4B4A-B57F-63C50D4BD0FA.thumb.jpeg.3e498c30f1c137e967d4494bd1a39e0a.jpeg

9376B246-F628-4040-97A6-3FAF692F801E.thumb.jpeg.f44696e5e581803c61e26e4fd98cb13a.jpeg

241F72C7-CE2C-4A37-A885-0B9623D142A1.thumb.jpeg.307fdcc968dec8ea4cb40c904806fef7.jpeg

Moving on to main boom. 

:cheers:

 

 

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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So how do we deal with "gluing" and 'glueing"?:wacko:

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Main boom is in. Realized the block I used for the traveller rod on the transom is too big...something to remember for my next build. Not a surprise, really. I had noticed that my inner stay for the jib boom was the wrong dimension as well...used too small diameter rope. But I’ll live with it...I still like the look. 😁 Beads for the collar I got from Hobby Lobby. 

 

See below for courtesy pics. I’ll add ropes later on the cleat and traveler. 

 

09FD63B9-1BFF-4BDB-941E-538CFE325259.thumb.jpeg.2d71c4ef585bbcd2e4b3d149b153fb24.jpeg

11E0C6D9-5232-43F4-9F98-BC4EFC4317CA.jpeg.a4f4d2a0f7094eecc7f6fadf7092bab1.jpeg

5353C33E-5B95-43F0-897D-BA7CEBA7273F.jpeg.38cedb0cf7cf4fb5f2c9835e455cc6ac.jpeg

EE19F038-CA3D-4315-A924-4CF92AC427C1.jpeg.e331df098d884516085b7cc3bf1cf886.jpeg

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B11921F5-EF54-4501-8DAB-DD8F889F5E27.jpeg.3c22707bd8a34f16d12277596526bf1c.jpeg

 

And a bit of detail using my newly made rope coils on the foredeck. 

0C0DBFFE-1CF4-4CA3-84AD-320491B57D64.jpeg.03d804d26a6999974e1d549b454d7fb6.jpeg

Moving on...!!!!

:dancetl6:

 

 

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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38 minutes ago, lmagna said:

So how do we deal with "gluing" and 'glueing"?:wacko:

My degrees are in chemistry...not English!!  Why do you think the elements in periodic table only have 1-2 letters?  Chemists can’t spell worth a darn. But...we do have all the solutions. 😆 (Bad pun)

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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AT least you have a degree!

 

I have one of those things they call an AA degree. Basically that and $2.50 or so will get me a cup of coffee. I just put it away along with all of my other unmarketable skills many years ago.

 

I think the worst offenders are those people with MD at the end of their names! When my son was going through Med school he was constantly throwing unpronounceable, and unspellable words out there just to prove he was smarter than the rest of us common people. Why use "Flu" when "Influenza" or even better "an acute febrile illness" is available? 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Your son is a doctor!!  Congrats!!  Best and most reliable free healthcare anywhere!! 😁

 

True, I qualify for little letters after my name (very little!). But the document I’m most proud of is not a graduate degree, it’s my DD214!  I’ll stack my years of service and my VFW life membership against any PhD.!  Sadly, being a veteran gives you no letters after your name!

 

I agree, Lou...take pride in who you are ...life isn’t about collecting letters. God isn’t going to ask for your business card at the end of this ride. 😎

 

I just hope I can finish my Sultana before my ride stops!!!!l

 

:pirate41:

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Oh...and the Admiral is the smartest, cleverest, most awesome lady I ever met. I definitely married ‘up’. And she is very proud, as am I, of her AA Degree. 👍🏽

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