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HMS Pegasus by paul carruthers - Victory Models - Scale 1:64


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Hello Paul Carruthers,

 

god luck with your build and enjoy it.

 

Some years ago I also have modeled this kit. And I must say that it had been a long and very good time to model Pegasus. And if there are question in details its best to look into blue ensigns  build log. It's absolutely perfect.

 

Cheers Angarfather

Edited by Angarfather
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So nice to see another Peggy build.  Looks good so far.

Just teeny check from your pics  does the forrard BH need a leetle more harsh shaping??  It need a LOT..

And again from the pics the stern outer extensions seem to be at right angles to teh BH - they are best to be angled in a little to follow the line of the hull.

But these may just be the way the pics are shot -, Nice start

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The ply so far is good,

I used the rear deck ply to align the stern extensions.

The mdf is also very easy to work.

Commenced planking of the deck, still to scrape and tidy up

 

My first model was Cruiser by Caldercraft, a bigger model, I hope I can get my hands in to Pegasus as it gets more complex.

 

Is there a good source for strip wood in the UK?

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Edited by paul carruthers
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Looking good - and no there isnt a good UK strip wood supplier that I have found.

I get my stuff now from Crown  which is expensive but good.

The wood though I found wasnt too bad on Peggy - the  Tanganika for the decks will not work if you want to do more than straight planking but the hull strips i found were fine.

 

Yeah that looks like "normal " ply which will help greatly !  Check the parts 307 308 - if they are in the weird ply they are a b** nuisance.

 

I did Cruizer and Snake - simpler !

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Edging with pencil after fitting may not be very successful - you could try a variant of my approach http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/420-hms-pegasus-by-simonthepieman-victory-models-164-started-by-spyglass/?p=8119 using either a thin feeler gauge or a blade just to open the spacing a teeny bit - the varnish will seep in and add definition

Edited by SpyGlass
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How are you going to deal with the tops of BHs that will be exposed ?

 

They cant be removed till at least the gunportstrips are installed they are an invaluable guide.

You have planked round them  so there will be a gap when you remove them. 

Could I advise removing some of your outer planking strips now - easier to replank in longer strips after the BH are gone

 

 I usually planked close to teh stubs then  left the details to be completed after external planking

 

I like your mitred fore hatch - Very tut tut from the purists but i  quite fond of how they look ! Nice lining too/

Edited by SpyGlass
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Well it can go like a dream  ...or !!!

 

My guide I repeat -

make sure LOTS of fairing on the forrard two BHs

The forrard strips are long

I shift the jigsaw joint back - the measurements are on the log

and expect to have an overlap forrard which means you may have to trim the stem end and.recut the sprit hole a bit

The stern ones end up a bit long but that is a just a trim to fit.

You will have a BH showing in the first port - various approaches to that 

 

Then my route is soak and clamp soak and clamp  - over and over.  It realy can be made to fit exactly - S curves and all.

Should look like this

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/420-hms-pegasus-by-simonthepieman-victory-models-164-started-by-spyglass/?p=7999

 

 A few more pics of the soaking and clamping process from my Fly log which got lost in the big crash

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Note use of scrap to push in the S curves

 

Have fun !

Edited by SpyGlass
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First wet lay up, considering relief cuts where marked as no matter how much you soak, the fibre lay up in ply is always going to distort rather than follow form, anybody tried this?

 

Oh and Poundland sells clamps, cheapest set I've seen anywhere.

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Edited by paul carruthers
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Nope you dont need the relief cuts  - the ply WILL adjust given an adequate soak and LOTS of clamping- usually take 3 - 4 passes !

And may I remind you to add in the "shaping" clamps using scrap wood to squeeze into the "S" curves unless you have very thin clamp jaws.

 

The refererence  http://modelshipworl...pyglass/?p=7999 that I gave in my last post shows a strip after I think at least 3 cycles - that fitted exactly everywhere in the end. 

I see you have fitted a dummy sprit - good idea -  though I think one needs  few mm off the stem end of the strips - letting them "hug" the sprit gives a good line.

I found the worst problem once i had twigged where to put the jigsaw joint was to keep the lower edge of the strip  "unwavy" between the BHs

 

Ah i found this pic in my old Fly log files - you can see that there was only a teeny bit of filling along the base of the strip needed.

 

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Edited by SpyGlass
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Nice work Paul, and welcome to the Swan Class brotherhood :)  The Pegasus is a really wonderful kit as I'm sure you're finding.  BE's log is the gold standard that we all follow.

 

For my gunport patterns, I soaked and pinned only twice.  I found that it reverted a lot after the first soaking.  The key is just to relax the fibers and make sure that everything lines up properly.  Spy has some really good notes and suggestions on placement - particularly regarding the jigsaw connection.  I forget if it's forward or behind where the kit diagrams show it.  Don't worry too because you can sand back the ply, and since the hull is double planked, you can use filler, etc.  It's a pain, but not too bad in the end (the patterns do make things easier than had the kit required you to actually frame the bulwarks, which is what I'm going through on my Morgan).  Just take your time and you'll be fine.

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