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HMS Pegasus by paul carruthers - Victory Models - Scale 1:64


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I presume thats just a demo bit - either that or thats  to fit a bit of the vessel I never found !

 

But you are so right - you can never get a nice fit without it. 

 

I tend to only do one edge of each strip which mean you have a flat(tish) edge for the chamfer on the next strip to fit up against.  

I use three main tools for it - a sanding stick for most of the work, the edge of a scalpel held vertically or my favourite because, its so  controllable is a David plane clamped upside down. 

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You have to watch the grain if you are using blades always work so the grain takes you away from the cut.

Edited by SpyGlass
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Various ways but some require starting at an earlier stage earlier stage.

 

How far have you got with the first planking - are you down to the keel ?

 

I practice with this type of kit I find that simply fairing the first planking  into the keel ply with a little bit additional fairing INTO the ply give  a sufficent Rabbet. 

Its one of the advantage of not fitting keel bits early that you can get that shaping better but with the keel bits fitted you just fair in till the  "lip" on the keel  pieces is sufficient.  Hang on while i see if I have a pic of this on one of my Swans

 

Not a Swan one to hand but if you look at these shots of my Pickle http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8650-hm-schooner-pickle-by-spyglass-caldercraft-164-scale/?p=425756 you can see how much needs to come off along the edge - yoi can see the knife marks where I took it down

Ignore the fact that my keel is demountable you will still need to fair/cut/sand in about the same amount  The 4th pic down is a trial second garboard  - you can see that it lies nicely with the amount of "rabbeting. 

 

Ah found a Swan shot - A Pegasus from the stem shape I think but the same as Fly.

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You can see how much I took the first planking/keel back.

 

Reality - the keel bottom second planking actually doesnt need a rabbet ( purist hold up hands in horror !) you can shape the edge of the garboard to lie nicely against the walnut keel.

But if you ARE putting a Rabbet in you need to get it quite pronounced   The Stern post sorts itself as long a s you get the ply +planking down to thickness  A good rabbet at the stem though makes second planking SO MUCHEASIER you can actualy tuck in the strip end and it will be held !

Edited by SpyGlass
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I looked at this during my build and I finally settled on RB32mm guns and the 15mm for the Swivels.

However, the 29mm look fine as well on the carriage, and once they are all together along the broadside I don't think they will look undersized, I just preferred a slightly chunkier look.

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This is the comparison I made when deciding on my build, and as you can see the Syren version is finer still than the RB 29mm.

 

B.E.

 

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The gun port size is as per the pattern, and I lined them with some 0.6mm boxwood strip. However, were I doing the model again I would have made the first port, which is in fact a Bridle port, (not a gun port), narrower to 8.50mm, and side hinged the port lid.

I didn't line the Sweep ports.

 

B.E.

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Hi Paul -- I just now found your log, and have caught up.  You're doing very nicely.  Once you've passed the gunport strip (sort of the initiation into Victory Swans), and the planking, you get to start on the really fun bits. 

 

I'll be following along with interest.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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