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Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1948 by russ - 1/48 scale - POB - Finished


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Hi Russ,

Just caught up with your latest build, beautiful and clean work as always. Your deck planking looks perfectB)

Best regards,

Aldo

Currently Building:
HMS Pegasus (Victory Models)-Mothballed to give priority to Triton

 

HMS Triton (first attempt at scratchbuilding)

 

 


Past build:
HM Brig Badger (Caldercraft), HM Brig Cruizer, HM Schooner Ballahoo

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Aldo:

Glad to hear from you. Thanks for the kind words. I will have the deck finished in the next few days I think. So far so good. :)

 

Russ

 

 

 

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Deck planking is complete and the deck has been scraped fairly well. I will, look again over the weekend to see if it needs any more scraping. 

 

The last deck plank, outboard and aft on the starboard side, has no glue on it. It went in nicely on the last fitting and I could not raise it again to apply glue to the bottom. Oh well, it is in there to stay regardless. 

 

Russ

progress deck planking complete forward 2-9-2018.JPG

progress deck planking complete aft 2-9-2018.JPG

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John:

Thanks. I am tolerably pleased with the result. 

 

Russ

 

 

 

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Very nice deck planking Russ.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Here is the main hatch coaming. My Model Machines 4 inch table saw was handy in making the half lapped joints at the corners. The coaming sits down into the deck planking so the fit will work out well. This is much better than sitting it on top of the planking. 

 

Russ

progress main hatch coaming 2-10-2018.JPG

progress main hatch coaming fwd 2-10-2018.JPG

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"The coaming sits down into the deck planking so the fit will work out well."

 

Isn't that harder to accomplish, I would think so, although, I know I shouldn't think.

 

Nicely planked, and the next steps start promising!

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Carl:

Thanks. There is work either way. Either you will have to carefully sand the entire underside of the coaming to fit onto the planking, fitting to both the sheer and the camber of the deck,  or carefully fit the planking to allow the coaming to sit into the recess. I have tried it both ways, and fitting the planking is easier, especially if you take some time to make carefully cut jigs to layout where the planking ends. It is really just a matter of which option you prefer. 

 

Russ

 

 

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Making a lot of good progress lately Russ; some free time?

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Pat:

Thanks. It has either been very cold or rainy just about every day lately, so that leaves me with some free time. It looks like there will be some much needed yard work later this week though. :)

 

Russ

 

 

 

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I hope this will be of use to someone. Here is a little jig to help locate support cleats on the inside of the hatchway so that you will know that your hatch covers will sit level with the top of the hatch coaming. 

 

The jig is made of two strips of wood, one of which is the thickness of the hatch covers. Glue that strip to the edge of another wider strip and then sit that wider strip on top of the hatch coaming so that the first strip lips over the edge of the coaming. You can strike a pencil line along the bottom edge of the strip to mark the top edge of the cleat on the inside faces of the hatch coaming. Glue the support cleat right on that pencil line and your hatch covers will sit level and flush with the top edge of the coaming. 

 

In the photos you can see the jigs and one of the cleats on the side already installed and then the jigs in use. I made one for the side of the hatch coaming and one for the end of the coaming. These are easy to make from scrap material and yield good results. 

 

Russ

 

 

progress hatch spacing jigs 2-14-2018.JPG

progress hatch spacing jig side 2-14-2018.JPG

progress hatch spacing jig fwd 2-14-2018.JPG

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Carl:

In the first photograph, look at the inside edge of the hatch coaming and you will see one of the support cleats already installed. On that support cleat will sit the end of the hatch covers. There will be identical support cleats along the entire inside face of the coaming. In the next two photographs, you can see how that jig sits on top of the hatch coaming and establishes the upper edge of that support cleat.

 

Russ 

 

 

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Carl:

See that long wooden strip along the inside edge of the coaming in the first photograph? That is what I am talking about. 

 

Russ

 

 

 

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Here is another photograph with the first hatch cover made. 

 

Russ

progress hatch cover fitted 2-15-2018.JPG

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I would call it more like a sill inside the coaming...the lip in which the hatch cover sits on.   the deck came out nicely Russ.......I do the same process with the structures.  it's easy to overcome the deck camber with the method......it can be seen inside the hatch.  very nicely done  :) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Thanks. Yes, sill, cleat, call it what you will. :)

 

I actually relieved the underside of the hatch coaming on each end to account for the camber a bit; just enough to get a good fit with no movement. 

 

Russ

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Good jig/idea Russ, makes for a nicely uniform and level hatch cover.

 

I hope you don't mind me pasting this?  Carl:

 

Cleat - A strip fastened to one part to hold it in place or to facilitate the fastening of another part.  Examples: cleats on the inside of a blanket chest used to hold a drop-in tray. A variation of the cleat that woodworker's tend to use a lot is the French Cleat
cheers
Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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21 minutes ago, russ said:

I always enjoy a good jig

A jig or a reel ...

 

Thanks Pat, that clearifies a lot. Maybe I should have bought that English Oxford dictionairy 30 odd years ago ... or not(?). It seems double Dutch isn't the only dubious language  ...

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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The hatch covers have been completed except for paint. I am also making the brackets for the planks that would hold the tarpaulin cover in place. There are two on each side of the hatch and the ends. I am going to live with these for a few days and see what I think of them. They may be replaced, but we will see. 

 

Russ

progress hatch covers complete 2-18-2018.JPG

progress hatch brackets 2-18-2018.JPG

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John:

Thanks. It is surprising how much research has to go into what seem the smallest details. 

 

Carl:

Thanks. The width of the first three hatch covers are 33 inches wide and the last one is 30 inches wide. 

 

Russ

 

 

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