Jump to content

74 gun ship by Gaetan Bordeleau - 1:24


Recommended Posts

Thank you for your comments.

 

The wood camera studio stand is replaced by a metal one. I machined few adaptors for the final goal: to take a photo from the top of the model ship boat. This is a difficult task because the camera has almost to touch the ceiling to be able to see the entire 8 feet long model at a distance of less than 3 feet. Of course, a wide angle lens is required. Here is how it works; the camera transfer a live view  image to the lap top and then the photo transfers to the TV. This way, I can easily see behind the camera.

IMG_4411.jpg

IMG_4399.jpg

IMG_4373.jpg

IMG_4372.jpg

IMG_4371.jpg

IMG_4368.jpg

DSCF0887.jpg

1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not only are you a master model maker, you're also a master photographer.  Those photos are beautiful.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 photos could be an option to get the model complete.I am not familiar with stitching images.  I did not realize that I was missing the extremities, I was focused on the quality of the light.

I did a fast try but to get a perfect match is difficult as you can see in the photo.

I will do another try, focusing on taking the complete model. 

If the model is still too high, I will take it out of the dentist chair, this way I would get 3 more feet of distance and then it would be easy to get the full model.

Capture d’écran, le 2020-06-29 à 20.56.06.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gaetan,   I did a Google on photo stitching. There's apps/programs (some free) and also how-to's using photo software you might have.  Your photo looks pretty good and if you hadn't mentioned the imperfect match, I doubt most of us would have noticed.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can stitch large (upwards of 10 or more pics) distant panoramas (landscapes) quite easily, just snap individual pics (vertically) overlapping them about 1/3 and stitch them together on one of the panorama programs, like Hugin (free), Photoshop or PTGUi (purchase license), but taking panoramas of close up objects (macrophotography) involves the so called, parallax error, which makes stitching difficult or even impossible.

To remedy this, you have to use a special panorama arm (head) that eliminates this error, like this one:   http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/nn3/nn3_review.html     or similar

It all involves determining the so called nodal point of your lens, which is sort of a complex concept, so I won't even try here to explain it.

Such panorama arms (heads) are quite expensive, unless you want to build one by yourself (which drastically lowers the cost, total ~ 20-30 US dollars).
Some time ago I built one from hardwood scraps + purchased a few extra inexpensive parts, following a short tutorial online, and determined my nodal points for my Nikon D200.

I still use it occasionally. It works quite well.

PS: Your model is spectacular and mind boggling! I am building the same one, but in 1:48 scale. Still, it is a monster!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Jeronimo said:

Hello Dziadeczek.

You build the same model in 1/48 scale.

Under which link can I find your construction report / photos?

regards

Karl

Hi Karl,

I did not post here any reports and pics of my model build. Alltogether I lagged behind with taking photos of the progress of my work, rather concentrating on the build itself (which is going exceedingly slowly).

Here you can find some older pictures:   http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=523&t=46424

It is a Polish ship modeling forum, but the pictures are in English!   :-) Be sure to see all 4 pages.

There has been some progress since then (photoetched elements and other). One day I will have to snap a couple of new pics and post them.

Thanks for asking.

Regards,

Thomas

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Actually,I am experimenting macro photography with a ring light around the lens.The 65mm and the 100 are useful for this. It is not every lens which are compatible. For the 74, the 100mm was used.

By example, we can take photos of flowers outside. With the same set up, we can also take photos inside the 74.

 

In a parallel project, I continue to explore ways to take photos inside the 74 in multiple levels at the same time. It is particularly difficult especially with the lighting. It is the kind of project which could be done  easily with a 3D model, but this is not the road I want to travel.

IMG_4651.jpg

IMG_4647.jpg

IMG_4555.jpg

IMG_4541.jpg

IMG_4540.jpg

IMG_4539.jpg

IMG_4537.jpg

IMG_4532.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the last month, I turned and milled adaptors for photography. If I show my hands, you could not guess what I did for the last month. I do not have hands of  somebody working with metals.

For those who worked metals by turning and milling by example, you know that it is the best way to get dirty hands and sometime it is very difficult to clean. In fact, there is an easy way to keep clean hands.

You need to wear gloves. In 2020, this the best solution. But not any gloves, you need gloves that fits... "like a glove". Nitrile gloves are a solution but not very durable. There is another kind:https://www.lequipeur.com/en/dakota-paquet-de-2-paires-de-gants-lite-enduits-de-pu-53768.html#53768=ASSORT

This kind fits perfectly to the hand. These kinds of gloves have been on the market for the last 20 and are an industry standard used in many areas related to metal.

 

To handle big peace of wood,I wear another kind of gloves:

https://www.lequipeur.com/en/dakota-deerskin-gloves-32238.html?_br_psugg_q=gloves#32238=LEATHR

I like these gloves because I can feel the wood grain. These gloves, in comparison with the other pair is more like a loose fit. This kind of glove would not be safe to use to work metal especially on the lathe.

 

And again, some photos.

IMG_4711.jpg

IMG_4714.jpg

IMG_4716.jpg

IMG_4752.jpg

IMG_4758.jpg

IMG_4764.jpg

IMG_4768.jpg

IMG_4776.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You raise the bar higher and higher with each new series of photos.  GREAT work including the photos!!  I dare say, your patience level must be in the stratosphere, never settling for less.

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ekis and Allan, thank you

 

Allan, if I dare, This week was only to explore, again 1 aspect of photography: trying to match the color. To do this, I transform the workshop in a photo studio. Here is my easy way to transform a workshop into a photo studio: the big heavy are all around the walls so that the rest is in the middle. Everything being on wheels, it is easy to store when not needed. Also, I can make with this room a theater or a listening room where the sound does not sound too bad for 2 main reasons: concrete walls and a rubber mat. Over the years, I tried different floors and this one is my favorite. It acts as a anti fatigue mat and when I drop a tool especially those with a cutting edge, it does ruin the edge.

 

1.jpg

Capture d’écran, le 2020-07-25 à 09.00.03.jpg

Capture d’écran, le 2020-07-25 à 20.17.23.jpg

DSCF0906-2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Photography is an art and has come a long way since I've done any.  I had the gray cards and color cards but developing the film and prints was the tricky part back then.  I'm learning a lot following along, Gaetan.  You're an excellent teacher.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you very much Mark. You know, the best thing about trying to explain in writing a fact, is that it also helps you to understand.

 

There is a groove on the back of the rudder. It is supposed to improve the efficiency of its control by maintaining the current of water in its extension.

The rudder is controlled by the tiller. If the tiller breaks, a hand controlled tiller can be installed.

 

The wood parts of the rudder are almost complete. The metal parts will be next.


 

IMG_4964.jpg

IMG_4965.jpg

IMG_4949.jpg

IMG_4956.jpg

YDXJ0109.jpg

YDXJ0111.jpg

YDXJ0115.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once again, your photography rivals your build, that is to say, TOP NOTCH!!!!

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Jeronimo said:

in your photo does the ruder blade consist of four parts?

Optical Ilusion?

Karl,

Closer inspection will show that  your #1 and #2 are a single timber.  The bevel tricked you, too.

On 8/1/2020 at 9:25 AM, Gaetan Bordeleau said:

There is a groove on the back of the rudder. It is supposed to improve the efficiency of its control by maintaining the current of water in its extension.

There was a discussion,  in NRJ  about chatter grooves    19:81-85  with illustration       chatter strip   16:236

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Allen,

 

Karl, the rudder was made with 3 big trees like the 3 paper bands to the right. Big nails hold the parts together (The forth part would be fragile to these nails). The number 1 shows a 45 degrees bevel which also is drawing as if there was a fourth part. If you look the drawing from Boudriot, you will see that the hinges are at 45 degrees too.

 

Jaager, I do not have the journal, if you could show us a picture, it could be nice.

IMG_4973.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found the reference in the Vol 1-40 CD's.   The store here sells the CD.  They also offer some PDF of already requested pages, if contacted, the office may be willing to do these pages.  But unless a guild official gives the go ahead for a back channel copy, I am reluctant to traffic in copyright protected media. 

 

The CD set is worth owning

 The editors used the opportunity that the journal offered to reprint some obscure and rare original material.  Much of it is multi part.

Some of the content titles:

 

LE COMTE: PRAKTIKALE ZEEVAARTKUNDE
SHIPYARD AND SERVICE CRAFT: PLANS PORTFOLIO
RIGGING DATA FOR TWO BRITISH FOURTH-RATES
A FIFTH RATE 1684 KELTRIDGE DRAUGHT
SPECIFICATIONS FOR OARS OF VARIOUS BOATS OF THE USN FOR 1900
17TH CENTURY MAST AND SPAR LENGTHS SUMMARY IN A SEA GRAMMAR
SAMUEL BENTHAM: FORGOTTEN SHIPBUILDER AND ENGINEER
THE COPPERING OF 19TH CENTURY AMAERICAN MERCHANT SAILING SHIPS
THE WHIPSTAFF
EARLY HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING MACHINERY
A GENERAL DISCUSSION ON FRENCH 64-GUN SHIPS OF THE LINE    BOUDRIOT,JEAN
THE WILLIE L BENNETT AND NOTES ON OTHER CHESAPEAKE BAY SKIPJACK
THE COMPLETE SHIPWRIGHT   BUSHNELL,EDMUND
SOME THOUGHTS ON THE RIGGING OF COLONIAL SCHOONERS  
THE DECK FURNITURE AND MACHINERY OF LARGE MID-19TH SAIL
FISHING SCHOONER ELSIE 1910: RESEARCH AND PLANS
A STUDY OF MID-LATE 18TH CENTURY AMERICAN SMALL VESSEL FRAMING
PAINT AND COLORS FOR AMERICAN MERCHANT VESSELS 1800-1920
THE APPEARANCE OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY SHIP

 

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gaetan, as always your work is impeccable, and your ship is rounding into form beautifully.

 

Thank you for posting that listing of NRJ article subjects.  I will have to obtain a set of the CDs.  If I may ask about the chatter groove on the aft face of the rudder - in what period of French naval architecture did this groove first appear?

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...