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Gaetan Bordeleau

74 gun ship by Gaetan Bordeleau - 1:24

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Thank you for your comments.

 

The wood camera studio stand is replaced by a metal one. I machined few adaptors for the final goal: to take a photo from the top of the model ship boat. This is a difficult task because the camera has almost to touch the ceiling to be able to see the entire 8 feet long model at a distance of less than 3 feet. Of course, a wide angle lens is required. Here is how it works; the camera transfer a live view  image to the lap top and then the photo transfers to the TV. This way, I can easily see behind the camera.

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Now, all you need to do is take two photos (fore and aft), lens correct for distortion and stitch them together!

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2 photos could be an option to get the model complete.I am not familiar with stitching images.  I did not realize that I was missing the extremities, I was focused on the quality of the light.

I did a fast try but to get a perfect match is difficult as you can see in the photo.

I will do another try, focusing on taking the complete model. 

If the model is still too high, I will take it out of the dentist chair, this way I would get 3 more feet of distance and then it would be easy to get the full model.

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Gaetan,   I did a Google on photo stitching. There's apps/programs (some free) and also how-to's using photo software you might have.  Your photo looks pretty good and if you hadn't mentioned the imperfect match, I doubt most of us would have noticed.

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You can stitch large (upwards of 10 or more pics) distant panoramas (landscapes) quite easily, just snap individual pics (vertically) overlapping them about 1/3 and stitch them together on one of the panorama programs, like Hugin (free), Photoshop or PTGUi (purchase license), but taking panoramas of close up objects (macrophotography) involves the so called, parallax error, which makes stitching difficult or even impossible.

To remedy this, you have to use a special panorama arm (head) that eliminates this error, like this one:   http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/nn3/nn3_review.html     or similar

It all involves determining the so called nodal point of your lens, which is sort of a complex concept, so I won't even try here to explain it.

Such panorama arms (heads) are quite expensive, unless you want to build one by yourself (which drastically lowers the cost, total ~ 20-30 US dollars).
Some time ago I built one from hardwood scraps + purchased a few extra inexpensive parts, following a short tutorial online, and determined my nodal points for my Nikon D200.

I still use it occasionally. It works quite well.

PS: Your model is spectacular and mind boggling! I am building the same one, but in 1:48 scale. Still, it is a monster!

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Hello Dziadeczek.

You build the same model in 1/48 scale.

Under which link can I find your construction report / photos?

regards

Karl

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12 hours ago, Jeronimo said:

Hello Dziadeczek.

You build the same model in 1/48 scale.

Under which link can I find your construction report / photos?

regards

Karl

Hi Karl,

I did not post here any reports and pics of my model build. Alltogether I lagged behind with taking photos of the progress of my work, rather concentrating on the build itself (which is going exceedingly slowly).

Here you can find some older pictures:   http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=523&t=46424

It is a Polish ship modeling forum, but the pictures are in English!   :-) Be sure to see all 4 pages.

There has been some progress since then (photoetched elements and other). One day I will have to snap a couple of new pics and post them.

Thanks for asking.

Regards,

Thomas

 

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Hi Thomas,

 

a very nice model.

Thanks for your link.

Thanks also to Gaetan for the link to the model.

 

Regards

Karl

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Actually,I am experimenting macro photography with a ring light around the lens.The 65mm and the 100 are useful for this. It is not every lens which are compatible. For the 74, the 100mm was used.

By example, we can take photos of flowers outside. With the same set up, we can also take photos inside the 74.

 

In a parallel project, I continue to explore ways to take photos inside the 74 in multiple levels at the same time. It is particularly difficult especially with the lighting. It is the kind of project which could be done  easily with a 3D model, but this is not the road I want to travel.

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Now, why didn't you mention that your ceiling was a suspended one with removable tiles before? ;) 

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For the last month, I turned and milled adaptors for photography. If I show my hands, you could not guess what I did for the last month. I do not have hands of  somebody working with metals.

For those who worked metals by turning and milling by example, you know that it is the best way to get dirty hands and sometime it is very difficult to clean. In fact, there is an easy way to keep clean hands.

You need to wear gloves. In 2020, this the best solution. But not any gloves, you need gloves that fits... "like a glove". Nitrile gloves are a solution but not very durable. There is another kind:https://www.lequipeur.com/en/dakota-paquet-de-2-paires-de-gants-lite-enduits-de-pu-53768.html#53768=ASSORT

This kind fits perfectly to the hand. These kinds of gloves have been on the market for the last 20 and are an industry standard used in many areas related to metal.

 

To handle big peace of wood,I wear another kind of gloves:

https://www.lequipeur.com/en/dakota-deerskin-gloves-32238.html?_br_psugg_q=gloves#32238=LEATHR

I like these gloves because I can feel the wood grain. These gloves, in comparison with the other pair is more like a loose fit. This kind of glove would not be safe to use to work metal especially on the lathe.

 

And again, some photos.

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You raise the bar higher and higher with each new series of photos.  GREAT work including the photos!!  I dare say, your patience level must be in the stratosphere, never settling for less.

Allan

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Ekis and Allan, thank you

 

Allan, if I dare, This week was only to explore, again 1 aspect of photography: trying to match the color. To do this, I transform the workshop in a photo studio. Here is my easy way to transform a workshop into a photo studio: the big heavy are all around the walls so that the rest is in the middle. Everything being on wheels, it is easy to store when not needed. Also, I can make with this room a theater or a listening room where the sound does not sound too bad for 2 main reasons: concrete walls and a rubber mat. Over the years, I tried different floors and this one is my favorite. It acts as a anti fatigue mat and when I drop a tool especially those with a cutting edge, it does ruin the edge.

 

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Photography is an art and has come a long way since I've done any.  I had the gray cards and color cards but developing the film and prints was the tricky part back then.  I'm learning a lot following along, Gaetan.  You're an excellent teacher.

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Thank you very much Mark. You know, the best thing about trying to explain in writing a fact, is that it also helps you to understand.

 

There is a groove on the back of the rudder. It is supposed to improve the efficiency of its control by maintaining the current of water in its extension.

The rudder is controlled by the tiller. If the tiller breaks, a hand controlled tiller can be installed.

 

The wood parts of the rudder are almost complete. The metal parts will be next.


 

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