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For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

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22 minutes ago, Jorge Diaz O said:

¡¡¡Is perfec!!!!!

 

far from perfect, but thank you Jorge

 

 

I will try to upload a .pdf file. I do not know if it will work.

I have assembled the content of this log from page 15 to 20 in a .pdf file, but only parts about  about my search about  knife, blade and sharpening. May be it could interest somebody. Anyway, I did enjoy doing this search with the help of Vossiewolf.

 

 

What is a good knife.pdf

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Gaetan, I just caught up with your worderful work.

I can´t say which photo I liked the most.

This not a scratch building log, this is a complete model course, with a photography course as a bonus.

Congratulations!! 

This holiday I will connect my notebook to the TV and review the log from the begining in a large screen, so that I can aprpeciate the details. 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Mauricio

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  • 2 weeks later...

For the last 2 weeks, I continued the ceiling lighting. The first upgrade was to continue to replace fluorescent tubes with LED tube. The cost is becoming more reasonable as time goes. This is the easiest way to get  a very interesting lighting.

 

Also, I continued the studio lighting with video LED panels on the ceiling which are very helpful for photography. Usually when we have one  light fixture, it is installed on a tripod. But when many lights are used, the footprint of all the tripods on the floor is embarrassing because it is difficult to move around easily. The easy way to reduce the footprint is to transfer the light to the ceiling. Photography store sell fixtures for this but these are excessively expensive. Since a few years, I did use the lathe extensively to adapt some "light holders". I did experienced with few prototypes adapting light stand  accessories. The  systm for a simple holder is light, metal rod and balanced by a counterweight to easily  change the angle. At the begining of the year, I found another type of accessories which could help to hold some LED lights. I ordered music Drum hardware. After now 2 months, I am still waiting for some chrome tubing jammed at Fedex Memphis.  I did a control board for all the switches, it is easier this way to light up.

 

With this, a lot of wiring, I found 2 little gadgets very helpful. The first one is rolls of velcro tie wrap. In contrary of traditional tie wrap which are not reusable, the velcro ones are. The other one is to pre drill holes for screws. I often assembles pieces of wood  with screws and I tried many versions of this tool. The last one I tried, is called  screw digger bit by Wolfcraft. In comparison with all the others, this one is extremely performing. One of the reasons id because the drill bit is tapered.

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3 hours ago, Alex M said:

Can you make a virtual tour?

 

When I bought a house, I had 2 choices: buy a big one or buy a small one with tools. I do not have a big house... so storage is important and it takes many chest with many drawers. It is preferable to have many low drawers than big high drawers because if you store just a few tools in a big drawer, you can lose easily more than the half of the volume of the drawer.

 

In the workshop, the big tools are close to the walls because they do not move. The others are on wheels and they can move as needed. Like a chameleon, the workshop has many colors. It can be transformed in few minutes in different kind of spaces: workshop for wood or metal, photography studio, home theater. This room also makes a very good studio to listen music, concrete walls, insulated tiles on the ceiling and a rubber floor of 3/4 inch thick. The beauty of this floor is that I can drop a knife on the floor without damaging the cutting edge.

 

The most important tool for me is the height adjustable electric table. Combine with the multi position vise, it makes a very good combination to position the part you work. Having the part at the good height and in the good angle... can make the difference.

 

 

And a few photos: on one, there is a motor with a phase converter. It allows you to use a 3 phase motor with 240 volts to feed the precision lathe and the surface grinder. In a drawer, we see all kinds of metal blocks made by the surface grinder which works with a precision of 0,0001". Precision can be even greater, the most extreme I can measure with a dial indicator is 0,00005".

 

 

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I wanted to have a lighter craddle for the 74, so I did another the V4 version.

 

V1: as usual on wheels. The biggest disadvantage no height adjustment. I repeat it working at the good height, makes the difference.

 

V2: Transformed an hydraulic chair into a height adjustable hydraulic piston. I added a blocking mechanism on the piston so that the table does not turn around the piston.

 

V3:  Transformed a dentist chair into a height adjustable table. The angle of the table was adjustable too but there was no real use to it. It was heavy and as I grow older, i do not get stronger. The way to make the table to move in a more easier way is to change the wheels. I bought a 8 inches sets that I will receive in a few weeks.

 

V4: Additionally, I decided to change, again the table for an electric table. The 2 most important  specs are the minimum height adjustment and the weight it can lift. This table is rated for 275 pounds. The model weight around 100  and the cherry wood table between 30 and 60 pounds. The only thing I kept from the previous chair are the wheel base that I have temporarily fit until I receive the new wheel set. Actually the 2 wood bases are parallel to the feet. In the last photo, at the maximum height, we can observe that the leg want to open slightly. With the new wheel set, the wood base will be perpendicular to the metal feet, this way the feet will not move.

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  • 1 month later...
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Hi Gaetan, 

 

It is funny but, looking at the focus on the bell, the shape and colour of the wood, I am reminded of how close you live to Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré, one of my favorite cathedrals in the world. 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I recently hurt my leg so, I will not be working very much on the model for a while

 

I began this actual model in 2017 and I use Lightroom as a catalogue for  the photos. Up to this day, over 3250 photos are classified  in files. I have selected 12 photos representing my vision of this model through light variations in photography. After selecting these photos, it is clear that most of the photos were taken inside the model ship of a 74 guns at 1/24 scale. This model, is the fourth one of this series. Each model had different goals.

 

One goal, for this model is to try to photograph inside all the decks at the same time and if possible to have a good level of lighting at each deck. To get there, the deck planking is as far as possible: absent, so that more light can go through.

 

3 types of cameras were used: camera, action camera and phone camera. For the photos inside the model, the action camera works best and sometime, when I get lucky, the phone camera gives good results, but I rarely use the camera phone. 

 

What would be the best advice I could give to an aspiring photographer? Light is always the first thing to check. there are also 2 other things that I always take great care:

 

First, I always photograph as close as possible to the same height of the object. By example, if I take a photo of the outside model, I will position the camera at the same height of the model or even lower sometimes. At the contrary, if I take a photo at a much higher position than the model, it will look like more like a toy.

 

Second, I always check so that the camera is parallel with the horizon. These simple 2 advices will get more realistic photos simply because it will be as if the photo was taken at the same height as the human eye. It is never interesting for the eye to see a model which is not parallel with the horizon.

 

 

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