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Bluenose by Worldway - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

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I sometimes find that walking away from a “disaster” for while allows it to fix itself at least partially!  I can be confident about this as I get lots of disasters to check it out!

 

Good work Derek

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On 2/25/2018 at 7:45 PM, JustBlowingInTheWind said:

Once you've eliminated all the wrong ways, the right way is all that's left.

Well put Brian.

 

On 2/25/2018 at 5:17 PM, Heronguy said:

I sometimes find that walking away from a “disaster” for while allows it to fix itself at least partially!  I can be confident about this as I get lots of disasters to check it out!

 

Good work Derek

Your absolutely right Doug. My problem is that when a task gets very repetitive I tend to quickly lose interest.  Especially if I feel that it needs to be repeated.  If you look at my posts for this build I haven't been very active lately. However, because of the cost of the kits and money spent getting the right tools etc., I told myself that I have to get back at it.

 

I found an easier and quicker way to mask.  As shown by the following pictures.

 

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I managed to mask the quarter deck and paint it in about half the time I spent on the foredeck.

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I'm betting I can paint mine by hand. No taping off.

 

As for the repetitive, I always try to make a jig, or fine some way to mass produce. I think that's what gets me in trouble.

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I was removing the cap rail from the billet and broke a small piece off.  No worries, a bit of 1/16" x 1/16" scrap and the fix was made.

 

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However, I do have a situation that I need your help on.  As you can see, .my cap rail doesn't completely line up with the transom block.  The drawings show about an 1/8" reveal but I have close to 1/2".  Also I need to raise it about 3/8"

 

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So I'm curious how critical all these dimensions are or what I need to modify for a proper fit.  Should I build my own vertical pieces or just move the kit supplied ones up to meet the top rail.  Is this critical or is this just an unnecessary detail.

 

Any advice would me most helpful

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I see two issues you have run into, the transom build up is to thick, take a second look at the plans and you will see that the perpendicular planks are to visible.20180304_041033.thumb.jpg.f70e8499cff4131401968041884e0ea8.jpg

Doing has change the location of the main sheet boom buffer.

Secondly I think it looks like the aft deck stanchions are little to high. The bigger unit should align with the waist.

Hope this didn't add on with to much work. You are doing a great job. 

The cap rail is to have a slight lip over the transom.20180304_042541.thumb.jpg.8bf4ec8177785763f869c77b842fc37c.jpg

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Taking advice from Per, I began reworking the transom.  I chiseled it until I achieved the proper proportion.  I added a filler piece then finished it off with some wood fill.  I think it's a good improvement.

 

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That looks so much better. 

Before you add that piece you have some extra part to add on underneath.

Look at the plans.

Edited by Nirvana

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Tonight I cut in the hawse ports. Pretty easily done but had some minor damage which was easily repaired.

 

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I initially cut the hole then used needle files to fine tune it.

 

One thing I've noticed is that the caprail is 1/16" x 7/16" for the most part but widens to 9/16" in areas where there the belaying pins are located. 

 

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The kit doesn't come with either size plank.   I'm curious what others might have done at this stage or I'm open to any suggestions.

Edited by Worldway

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You should have 4 plank strips 1/2" wide in the kit. Those are for the main rail.

The widest part on my plans for the main rail measures 5/16, where we have the belaying pins.

Your plans might be off in measures.

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Thanks Per, I think I'm getting a little screwed up with measurements. I keep thinking 1/16" but we are talking 1/32".  The 1/2" strip will work fine.  Thanks for keeping me on track.  One question, did you cut the strip to width then bend it or did you cut it to the profile of the deck?

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Derek, 

I lifted the part from the plans..... I attached 2" wide clear tape on top of the plan, then used a second layer tape to trace the part.

This way I was able to lift the part as according to plan.

See my page 7 as most of the main rail construction is located there.

Thanks for asking for help........ I might be the next one to ask ......

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It's been a while since I updated my progress. I decided to try my luck at a bit of scratch building for the main rail.  As usual, when I'm tasked with something new, I tend to over analyze for quite a while until I finally break out the tools.  I bought a sheet of balsa wood and glued on the pattern using a glue stick.  I cut the rail out using my scroll saw trying to stay as close to the line as I could.

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There was a bit of sanding required but no big deal using the sanding options I had. I also set up my Dremel so i could use it like a drum sander to help make the task go faster.

 

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I'll still have a lot of fitting to do and cutting to length.  

 

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I'm coming on that as soon as I'm done painting.

 

My scroll saw is a dremel product. It's not deep enough for that. I fear I'll have to make them smaller pcs.

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