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Hello again folks.

 

Having finished my Viking boat I have started another kit from my stash, the Mare Nostrum.

 

I see loads of other people have done this kit as well so it will be interesting to see how I get on. This little boat has to be planked properly of course, no clinkering this time!!

 

Anyway I am sure you all know what's in the box but I'll show you anyway !!

 

So far most of the bulkheads have been fitted to the false keel and her rear end has been stroked until round and smooth !!

 

More soon.

 

 

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Gosh, so many people watching I had better not make a hash of this !

 

I have faired the stem and stern, not a job I am very good at. We shall see when I start the planking - another job I'm not very good at !

 

I have planked and installed the bunk room and engine room floors and gone the extra mile by planking the sides as well.

 

As for the bunk room, the kit comes with pieces for the beds but they were too big so I made my own. I realise that these would not show once the model is complete but I took pity on the crew and because I am such a sad person I made them a galley as well, we can't have them starving down there after all. I may try and make the companionway removable so that with a magnifying glass and a dentists angled mirror the internal wonders may be beheld!!

 

 

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Very nice Mike!!

I would hope that the cooking fumes doesn't disturb sleep!!

 

Are you sure that the Crew wouldn't just take a packed Lunch? (Vegimite Sammies?) :)

(I did the Bunks also but didn't think about the Kitchen facilities.)

 

Great start regardless.

 

Cheers....HOF.

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Had to consult Google Translate on this one.  I failed Latin 65 years ago.  Twice.
However, it seems that ...
Mare Nostri means 'Our Sea' and/or 'Mediterranean'.
Mare Nostrum probably means either, or both, in some local derivative of Latin.
Latin 'Mare' declines as (singular) Mare Mare Mare Maris Mari Mari; (plural) Maria Maria Maria Marium Maribus Maribus.
My guess, if you wanted 'Our Seas', would be Maria Nostra.  Or Nostrorum.

(Now who's being a 'sad person'?  :) )

 

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Brian you are truly sad !!!!

 

Thanks daddyrabbit but,

 

You spend ages planking the deck with pre prepared lengths nicely rubbed with pencil to give good caulking, stick them on being careful not to get too much glue on the surface, leave it to dry. Cut out the necessary holes only to find that one at the front and one at the rear didn't need cutting out because they should have stayed there. So, then you fill them in carefully so that they don't show. Then you stick the deck lovely and central onto the hull with the aid to two raised points to make sure it is in the right place fighting with the clamps that don't want to stay on to maintain the curve of the deck. You leave it to dry resisting the temptation to fiddle with and watch the clamps ping off.

 

The next day you take off the clamps and examine you handiwork and you find THIS !!!!!!!!!

 

Just how on earth does it happen ?

 

 

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Unfortunately, by doing the shimming and trimming your deck plank layout will no longer be symmetrical. I had no issues with the false deck and certainly didn't experience this problem.  I agree with HOF.  Perhaps detach the deck and realign it.  I can't tell you how many times I have had to remove and redo an assembly.  It's all part of the joy of ship modelling.

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5 hours ago, Mike Dowling said:

So, now I have to add shims to the bulkheads on one side and shave some off on the other side. We love making models really, I'm sure we do !!!

 

Mike, I remember having just that problem with the Mare Nostrum.  It looked as though the deck was fitting about 1.5mm further to one side than it should have been.  I overcame it in just the same way as you're doing it, with shims of veneer on one side and shaving down the other side.

Check that, in fitting the deck on the model, you haven't introduced a curve to the (false) keel.   That's what happened to me.  If you have, it's not a disaster - I corrected it by sticking the proper (mahogany) keel on straight, after doing the first planking, and aligning the second planking to that.

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Hi Mike,

Another thought, if you decide to separate the Deck from the Bulkheads, you can still "Pin" the edges of the Deck as any holes will be covered by the Waterways.

Pin from Stem to Stern, or, maybe, from the Centre Bulkhead, work towards the Stem and Stern, (Alternate), one Bulkhead at a time, (Left/Right), then Pin in the Centre where Deck Furniture will cover any unwanted holes.

 

If you are happy with the way things look, run a Fillet of glue from the underside around all Bulkhead to Deck joints. (If not, Pin again.)

 

Cheers....HOF.

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Thank you all for your thoughtful comments. The thing is that there is a very slight warp to the false keel but really, very slight and not enough for the difference I have experienced. There is little point in removing the deck as it is correctly lined up centrally with the false keel. On this kit there are locating pieces for the deck to get it in the right place relative to the false keel. These were the holes in the deck planking that I shouldn't have cut out but did and had to fill in again afterwards. The problem would seem to have occurred by a very slight angle that the bulkheads were cut at where they slotted onto the false keel. I was very careful to get them square from a horizontal point of view but I didn't take enough care of the vertical. A good lesson learnt I think. Anyway I have shimmed one side and sanded the other and that shouldn't leave a gap at the sides of the deck unless my planking is really bad which is quite likely. I am not very good at it.

I am going to measure the position of the first plank today and try and get it on both sides. Watch this space!!

 

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Thanks HOF, you stick your beak in as far as you like !! In fact in my impatient way I forged ahead and did it anyway in line with the deck so I am glad I did it right !! In is 3mm but what's 1/2mm between friends! Since you are there I am tempted to put the garboard strake on next, does that make sense ?

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Hi Mike,

I Planked from the Deck down for the first few Planks and Keel up for the rest.

Sanded and filled after that.

Mine was double planked, so after the Bulwarks, Stem, Keel fitted 0.5mm Walnut.

 

I'll "Re-Sizes" some more photos for you in a mo.

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

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Yes, Mike, I agree with HOF.  A gap of 2.5mm or 3mm is OK.  Obviously the gap is bigger at the stern where the deck is raised.

I think I would have gone about 3 or 4 planks down from deck level before doing the garboard strakes.  Makes more sense to work towards the chine from both directions, and not to try ending up with the garboard strake.

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Thanks Brian and Harry thank you for the photos. OK so the garboard isn't as important by the sound of it as on some boats ? Did you taper the strakes both stem and stern and did you put them on in one piece ? Brian what is a 'chine' ?

 

Sorry for all the questions but planking is not my best thing.

 

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The chine of a ship's hull is just the area where the bilge turns upwards to become the topsides of the hull.  Strictly speaking, the term should only apply if there's a distinct (hard chine) or indistinct (soft chine) 'edge' in the area, but it's also used to indicate the general area.

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