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Hello Michael

                  Yes as EJ says people have there  own prefrerances for their plank bending. Your next task is to fit the gunport patterns which have very tight bends at the bows, probably the tightest on the ship. The patterns are broad and are 1.5mm ply. You will have to soak the ends at the bows.  If you oversoak the ply the laminates can  come apart,  especially  with the tight bends and thin ply. It might be a good idea to keep the scrap from the ply sheet when you remove the gunport patterns, and use off cuts to see how the ply responds on the curve around the bows if you follow. So that will help you to determine what you need to do. This is also were good fairing shows it's worth. RegardsDAVID

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Thabk you friends :)

when i was talking about how to make the curve in the strip... i was talkink about the curve of the plank that going to fill the mess bulkhead and because the bulkhead has a curve in the middle 

i need to fill it with some curved plank

 

and about the cuve of the ship i will do it with the electric plank bender :) 

by the way the last ship i did without the electric plank bender i just soak the planks and used them .. :) 

but any way thank you !

Michael.

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  • 5 months later...

Hello Friends :)

due to a lot of pressure in the office  and some holidays I not had the time to work on the ship..(life you know lol)

but now im back and I have finish the fairing process and also I painted the interior of the ship black matte (using airbrush )

 

and now im starting to install the gun ports patterns , I have some questions of this stage ..

but first of all i will post some new pictures of what I have done :) 

 

here is an example of correcting the angel of the front curve of the ship 

I had this problem : you can see that the tops of the bulkheads not running straight 

IMG_1699.thumb.jpg.ef9d6d2e7f0ecf9960644a1a5030e327.jpg

but in the other side it was a perfect so I decide to put a straight timber from the front until the last one of this section to see how much the top bulkheads tuning out from the line on the good side ( they was about 3/4 mm):

IMG_1695.thumb.jpg.7aa0ebd15dc98237976b993aa1be29d4.jpg

 

and I did the same to the other side ... so you can see exactly how much you need to glue and how much you need to sand...

IMG_1696.thumb.jpg.dfc47c9160def413188eb4afd29e8de1.jpg

and here is a pictures after fixing :

IMG_1698.thumb.jpg.4de9a1c3b75005baac5a49c2f30492fa.jpgIMG_1697.thumb.jpg.7c40736f4be1e00e3a8e824a652a392e.jpg

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Now about the new stage :) (installing the gun ports patterns )

 

in the instructions it says that the first pattern must be flash withe the gallery support ...

it is imposible to fo that becouse if it will be flash with the gallery supports the front of the pattern (next to the bow) it will go to much down ... 

also you can see even in the picture of the factory its not flash with the gallery supports ...(look at the red square that the pattern is out of the line of the gallery support )

also if the gap starting at the firs third of the gallery support and going out of the line its meen that at the bottom it will go in of the line !!! And if you will look good at the picture (on the green square ) you will see that in this section the pattern its more in from the line ...513BB433-0761-44C4-97F4-832D98BEE316.thumb.png.879324646e8054509b6f59833d40ec38.png

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Also other thing 

the diagonal adge of the pattern at the back (in the first pattern) is not covering the diagonal adge of the gallery support !!!  

Pattern diagonal adge 14mm

gallery diagonal adge 17mm 

its notice also in the picture from the factory ...

AC98A9E0-1D33-48A7-A8B0-C91E00440A2F.thumb.png.db18227ecc8345854b4acf2df9e5311e.png

 

 

 

Edited by michael101
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Also it says that the gun port must to be flash with the front of bulkhead 17 , the problem is that if it will flash with the gallery pattern all the way so it will never be flash with the front of bulkhead 17 ! 

So from all that question it must be falsh only in the middle (or the first third as the picture of the factory )

 

and after glue the patterns need to sand the axcess material from the back line of the gallery support also from the doagonal adge of the gallery support all the way to the kill to be flash as the gallery suport ! And need also to glue a little piece of wood from the middle to the top at the gallery suport to be flash with the line of the gun port

please correct me if im wrong 

 

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I have not built this kit but this is a common problem in many kits. While I know this is not helpful advice, I'm thinking you are just going to have to get creative with sanding and shimming to get the alignments right. Hopefully someone may have better suggestions or have built this kit and dealt with this issue. Just part of the fun of wooden ship building! :rolleyes:

 

You are doing great on it so far and will get this figured out also!

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Hello Michael,

 

I looked into my photos and managed to find this from my model.  Although the image is not very clear, if you look closely I had the same problem.  As E.J. has already said you have to get down to shimming and sanding to fit it.  As you go along the build, you will find other parts which will not fit perfectly and you have to adjust.  The most important points to keep in position are the front, that is the height at bulkhead no.1, the middle, and for the gunport to be flash with the front of gunport 17. Keep those as accurate as possible.  Also what you have to watch for is for the top of the pattern at the back where on you photo you have marked in a red box.  Make sure that the distance from top edge of the gallery support to the top edge of the pattern is the same on both sides of the ship, that is, on the port side and the starboard side.  The misalignment at the back of the pattern can be sanded later on when fitting the stern fascia inner skin n. 374.  If the misalignment is not too big, that is more or less as shown in the images, it should not be a problem.

I hope this is clear for you and you will find it of help.

 

Robert

 

post-18504-0-89103500-1456068821.thumb.jpg.7b1db79a338de369f9afd55e28c50888.jpg

 

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So before anything i want to share my idea 

about how to band the patterns / planks qt the bow 

 

im not sure if i will use the plank bander or haer dryer 

 

but i made this jig :

i took a photo copy of the front pattern suport to get the exact curve and then i shaped some wood as the exact curve using the scrall saw and sand disc 

on the top i made a stoper with a space as the thick of the plank/pattern 

here is some picures :) 

DAC1623E-1F9F-4942-9139-7DCC7BB4ED2C.thumb.jpeg.f9b1a00075b0aaee82e9289b18f0f6eb.jpeg02F6751E-E870-4847-89AB-70FDBB1D74E3.thumb.jpeg.10428b2894a61e46d5b16412dcb226ba.jpegF6781BB3-EB88-459E-8A91-ED61F47C354E.thumb.jpeg.70001734d2d1ec0aaf36f39007678fac.jpegBB365C48-96CA-4301-A996-8E0126930F3F.thumb.jpeg.ee6daee8c761dd1efc2d0f9bc08942de.jpegDD2B59DE-4A22-40F8-859F-AA9FE7FA556C.thumb.jpeg.8421cab32c704e88eca83dd734b2975f.jpeg 

Edited by michael101
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  • 1 month later...

Hello there :)

finally I can update my build log ...

 

here is some pictures from installing the patterns process 

I can say that edge of the second pattern at the top doesn't mach withe edge of the firs one (at the bottom )

also at the curve of the bow section ....

same thing between the third pattern to the second

so I found the way to know how much you need to trim from the pattern to get full touch between the edges 

I have install the first pattern temporarily and then I was putting the secunde patterned I let hem lie on the edge of the first pattern

then I marked the  edge of the secunde pattern at the bottom of the first pattern :

like in this picture :

IMG_3131.thumb.jpg.01c672aa26a94066c09824adf831f5f5.jpg

after marking I took the first pattern out and trimed the edge to the line that I have marked....

I did the same thing at the second pattern by using the third one (at the third the problem was at the bow section but it was a big problem to make them touch ....)

 

here its some pictures of the process :

IMG_2452.thumb.jpg.0657a37e39913f3ff009ddf0304d962e.jpgIMG_2583.thumb.jpg.1d2f15b526c2c9f250f39ec83a67c547.jpg

IMG_2598.thumb.jpg.a4bcea3c95b5446386da13140e69600f.jpgIMG_2596.thumb.jpg.b053e824da7dfb69c96cb5230e1d9eb9.jpgIMG_2576.thumb.jpg.c55ee6d11a558ea05156b252de773471.jpgIMG_2618.thumb.jpg.11a4efaf75cdc250201e9ed91b612ce0.jpgIMG_2645.thumb.jpg.13f47eab5a8b346a255fcde083f9a332.jpgIMG_3117.thumb.jpg.bc4cea4511fdc915d1ac5b7b3846b362.jpgIMG_3119.thumb.jpg.4a94f8b4e0e95a982882338719b15e94.jpgIMG_3121.thumb.jpg.72c820943914fff2272df40c3943e563.jpgIMG_3122.thumb.jpg.c97dc30471e4e2774d3e9359356c98ef.jpgIMG_3123.thumb.jpg.0c5535b69f960f83238f49234baab538.jpgIMG_3124.thumb.jpg.3f873f2530ba742caf875fe93ff14d91.jpgIMG_3127.thumb.jpg.268727f1ef72a31b6032ee86b475002f.jpgIMG_3129.thumb.jpg.327391c8543192437730721377c7e064.jpg

IMG_2454.jpg

Edited by michael101
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There is also a very important thing that you must pay attention before installing the last pattern between bulkhead 16 to bulkhead 17

the gun port its very hegh and when you will need to drill the center of the gun port for the cannon , you will not have good space to drill 

so i had to glue a piece of wood between the cannon support to the deck to have enough place to drill 

here is a picture (the pucture its before painting it black ...)

CF34C194-9558-404D-9972-1C86AFBD3B42.thumb.jpeg.afff0335c787d235bc70a0a990cff916.jpeg

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Getting rady to the next stage 

I saw some plank clampers at the internet also i saw them in some build logs ...

but after talking with Moxis i decide not to buy the due the expensive price and also i heard that the metal clamp its very week ...

 

so i decide to make my clampers by my self ...

i got the idea for the screws from Moxis , 

for the handles i have use the head of the push pins , i took the pins out and drilled the holl with 2 mm dia 

the screws that i bought was 1.8 mm by the Moxis advice 

and after cutting the head of the screws i have glue them to the handle by epoxy glue ,

 

for the clamp i have cut drill and bend aluminum 

 

here is some pictures:

0A076DDD-7372-4B2D-85D9-2DBB146650B3.thumb.jpeg.8380f2b6461fe0381c532deae83ed75b.jpeg8D957939-57C4-4358-AB46-729CF1D83C39.thumb.jpeg.57014c56b565b7e10acf988f3dde2711.jpegB6ED0D6A-B1EA-4296-A190-0D7AB59D8A47.thumb.jpeg.0a1f5e09fdbe3c6ee8199321113187ec.jpegB245ADEA-BFFB-4DC3-AB57-5DD7FF711DD6.thumb.jpeg.843532c6c32c7377fe88a954a01ed6fd.jpeg1C6142A2-AA30-49A1-B070-13A366C5AD9A.thumb.jpeg.d35a0b7a778e136dbd529ab44931046a.jpeg4BA788E4-E9EC-4957-85BD-5E955682DE5B.thumb.jpeg.426ff88af54a167eba0a520e0dfd9da8.jpeg20017547-3D53-4AB3-956A-FFAFE6D76A92.thumb.jpeg.1c4fb43c35502e44f2d97439614755eb.jpegFE43E774-616E-4135-A6BC-6ECF39FFED93.thumb.jpeg.79b6fc19c3ebb43452f423f92a17bbc8.jpegC06A30C9-055F-471B-815A-8EC9C16E57B5.thumb.jpeg.62370ce59e1a72bb5ee8f6daae406b72.jpeg486D1DA6-212D-46E3-9B2A-3091CF1482E8.thumb.jpeg.a43f4a8d67d6c72f6b1377a9981b9cce.jpegE2A549E3-4ECE-4339-B537-4E6177939C76.thumb.jpeg.57450cd4bbbe3d3e1a7772c2c5f1ab7b.jpeg7596A5F7-A180-420B-8D53-CB7EA34ED902.thumb.jpeg.4302cdd8cedd8ce77009f4af292d7baa.jpegThe final product :CBDF2737-E4FD-4EA7-9523-8A609D8173BB.thumb.jpeg.02a28d18fbc0294d78cbf5b6d9c9021e.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by michael101
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On 17/01/2018 at 1:50 PM, michael101 said:

Getting rady to the next stage 

I saw some plank clampers at the internet also i saw them in some build logs ...

but after talking with Moxis i decide not to buy the due the expensive price and also i heard that the metal clamp its very week ...

 

so i decide to make my clampers by my self ...

i got the idea for the screws from Moxis , 

for the handles i have use the head of the push pins , i took the pins out and drilled the holl with 2 mm dia 

the screws that i bought was 1.8 mm by the Moxis advice 

and after cutting the head of the screws i have glue them to the handle by epoxy glue ,

 

for the clamp i have cut drill and bend aluminum 

 

here is some pictures:

0A076DDD-7372-4B2D-85D9-2DBB146650B3.thumb.jpeg.8380f2b6461fe0381c532deae83ed75b.jpeg8D957939-57C4-4358-AB46-729CF1D83C39.thumb.jpeg.57014c56b565b7e10acf988f3dde2711.jpegB6ED0D6A-B1EA-4296-A190-0D7AB59D8A47.thumb.jpeg.0a1f5e09fdbe3c6ee8199321113187ec.jpegB245ADEA-BFFB-4DC3-AB57-5DD7FF711DD6.thumb.jpeg.843532c6c32c7377fe88a954a01ed6fd.jpeg1C6142A2-AA30-49A1-B070-13A366C5AD9A.thumb.jpeg.d35a0b7a778e136dbd529ab44931046a.jpeg4BA788E4-E9EC-4957-85BD-5E955682DE5B.thumb.jpeg.426ff88af54a167eba0a520e0dfd9da8.jpeg20017547-3D53-4AB3-956A-FFAFE6D76A92.thumb.jpeg.1c4fb43c35502e44f2d97439614755eb.jpegFE43E774-616E-4135-A6BC-6ECF39FFED93.thumb.jpeg.79b6fc19c3ebb43452f423f92a17bbc8.jpegC06A30C9-055F-471B-815A-8EC9C16E57B5.thumb.jpeg.62370ce59e1a72bb5ee8f6daae406b72.jpeg486D1DA6-212D-46E3-9B2A-3091CF1482E8.thumb.jpeg.a43f4a8d67d6c72f6b1377a9981b9cce.jpegE2A549E3-4ECE-4339-B537-4E6177939C76.thumb.jpeg.57450cd4bbbe3d3e1a7772c2c5f1ab7b.jpeg7596A5F7-A180-420B-8D53-CB7EA34ED902.thumb.jpeg.4302cdd8cedd8ce77009f4af292d7baa.jpegThe final product :CBDF2737-E4FD-4EA7-9523-8A609D8173BB.thumb.jpeg.02a28d18fbc0294d78cbf5b6d9c9021e.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Honestly I think being slowed down during this phase of the build is a good thing. Means you tend to take more time to double check and also get the benefit of taking a break from the model and returning with a fresh perspective which can allow for clearer eyesight to catch potential mistakes. Your layout and prefitting of the strakes looks real good. You should have a nice, clean planking job when done! Good luck! :)

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