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michael101

HMS Victory by michael101 - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72

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Hello Friends

here is a little update like I said before everything taking me a long time due to a lot of hours at the office 

 

first I will start with a little trick for the fan method I got an idea to roll the fan printed at some toothpick

and it working great you can finde the distance between the belts lines very quick by rolling up or down the toothpick :

I also recommending when you using the fan method don't mark all the belts !! just the first one that you going to start with!

because sometime you can pass the line of the belt  then you will need to calculate all the rest again ...

just finish the first one then after planking you can calculate the second belt act...

IMG_3384.thumb.jpg.53ddadc552cbcd3f9d54b20d699cc6dd.jpg

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about how im banding sideway :

that idea I saw here in model ship world to use clamps and hairdryer 

but my idea was for making that sideway bend to be exact I was using a wide masking tape by putting it from the bow to the second third of the ship in the Same height ,

in my case it was 16 cm from the desk 

after all I was marking the line of the pattern 

then I just put that masking tape in the table and I got the curve line 

and after all I was bending the plank with a little water (using brush ) and clamps to be in the same line that I got from the masking tape

I did the same at the stern and after clamping the plank Im using the hairdryer 

after all that process I made a molde as the bow of the ship then im using again the hairdryer with a little water (using only brush) for making a nice curve 

 

IMG_3390.thumb.jpg.ff880c7f85dea0681ab284dd9cdf48ed.jpgIMG_3393.thumb.jpg.a895d1b27a0777acada67932cde815e5.jpgIMG_3394.thumb.jpg.cfa640132dec1e965f372689086927c7.jpgIMG_3402.thumb.jpg.bfe941a5a2d85caf24210ec53f012df5.jpg

the mold for the bow curve :

 

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3 hours ago, Wallace said:

This is my dream model one day way down the line. With your log I have some much needed info. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work, it is looking fantastic!

Thank you wallace 

i will be more than happy if this build log will give you some ideas ,when you will buy this kit contact me :) 

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For tapering im using a micro wood plan , and also (for the inside taper, in the very back of the ship the planks going narrow until the last bulkhead then they going thick again until they meating the transom...)

im using the routher table of proxxon by conecting a sander instad of the miller

CC5757C1-C459-4382-956B-A07380D3CD7F.thumb.jpeg.8ac1c566134599ceb90d71ea70842689.jpegE7B2D052-BEF9-462E-9F8B-EA5EBFCCA769.thumb.jpeg.ba54df3c3d8c31b475f862ce6c2b5fb7.jpegB0CAB80F-FE90-4D3C-B42C-B61171C43F61.thumb.jpeg.eab0565f6f1670e42a40791ba2949a2e.jpeg 

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great job you are doing on the Victory Michael 

   I have two questions for you 1) how did you paint the bulk heads black with out getting any on the outside 

2) where do  you come across the build jig that is nice 

                                  Ronald 

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Hello Ronald , Thank you for your coment :) 

about your questions , for the first one i have used mascking tape and paint with airbrush , 

about your secound question im not sure that im understanding your question can you repet ?

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The jig i made it without plans ,

You just need to take make a straight line on the base and then connect the supports (90 degrees supports) between the bulkheads, you can use the keel as a guid when you connecting the supports the only thing that you need to worry about its to have a straight plywood for the base it will help you later when you will measure the distance between the bulkheads to the base for making sure that all the bulkhead are on the same level ! , and also you must be careful about the supports to make them exact 90 degrees for both sides it will help you to check the level of the bulkheads by measuring from the top of the bulkhead to the base in both sides 
Be carful when you making the jig and take your time , its the must important process for the all body of your ship !!!
Best regards,
Michael.

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Plywood is very seldom straight enough to be used as a base. To eliminate that I have attached straight angle irons below the plywood with screws. That keeps the base straight and heavy enough for building the hull.

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That is true Matti , good idea about the iron angles !!!

when i bought my plywood i took the strone one i dont know the name in english but they used to make doors  from this plywood its a bit expensive but it worth the money btw i think it cams also from finland :) 

Best Regards

Michael.

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Hey Michael 

     I like your selection of tools and measuring angles plus your mini power tools 

  may I ask where did you acquire them the power tolls look like proxxon brand they 

 probable better then micro marks they don't even make their own sander any  more 

                               Ronald 

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