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Continuing with the foremast.

Made the other three components of the mast: topmast, topgallant mast and the flag mast on top.

The topmast has such a big diameter at the bottom, that I made it from two parts.


Very happy now with my milling machine. Ideal to make the square parts at the top and bottom of each part.Wasa_by_Andre_002_20181231.thumb.jpg.86ddf08e25ce4330efe68bd553e1ad74.jpgWasa_by_Andre_004_20190105.thumb.jpg.b681290cf1460b4cfdce9d5054ffebfa.jpgWasa_by_Andre_003_20190101.thumb.jpg.f5d5ee4978ae2bef0347685207902ce3.jpgWasa_by_Andre_005_20190106.thumb.jpg.373c4183f2f19041859d9114948150e1.jpg

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Made the three smaller platforms for all the three masts. I used the Corel metal ring as size guidance.

I made these similar like the bigger platform of the fore mast, so slightly different from the platform that I had built earlier for the bowsprit. The difference is the wooden ring through which the deadeye attachments will go. Also now the opening in the center is bigger, as there will be many ropes need to go through these openings.

Only one big platform to do: the one for the main mast.


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  • 3 weeks later...

Meanwhile also made the second large platform (on right side in photo). After making this one, I noticed that I have made it slightly different from the first platform (on left side): the spacing between the bended wooden around the outside is now 2 mm instead of 3 mm. I actually like the 2 mm better.. I will leave them like this.

The wooden 'discs' and the bended wood were very white in color, so I applied wood stain on them to make these parts darker. It was with 'dark oak' wood stain'. There remains some color difference with thr note wood other parts, but this is ok for me.1284729850_WasabyAndre_002_20190129.thumb.jpg.32ef292d67a4b402f1b1850a1ad3ad11.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

I made meanwhile the mast parts of the main mast.

I used another lathe for the woodturning now. Mostly, because the lower section of the main mast is too large to fit into the mini-lathe. But having used the bigger one, I now prefer this bigger one, because it is more stable. So, I also made the top section of the main mast using the big lathe, from wood that had diameter of 10 mm, whereas the diameter of the finished part is only 5 mm at its widest (the top).

As the main mast is at an angle of about 7%-8%, I made the supporting sections also at a same (counter) angle, so that the platforms will be approximately straight in level.1594543032_WasabyAndre_001_20190216.thumb.jpg.de1f422c0fc2ab740b3193212e15268f.jpg1224554034_WasabyAndre_002_20190216.thumb.jpg.5862093e9f51adbb427f8c0a89b904a9.jpg1715830899_WasabyAndre_003_20190217.thumb.jpg.67d3f853b9ed6cac43b2d03a0ac9de99.jpg281122684_WasabyAndre_004_20190217.thumb.jpg.b5c1b571b3bec61b85e296a46e026d19.jpg1251964386_WasabyAndre_005_20190217.thumb.jpg.b676d317cef010874d28958f9713aa54.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Continued with the bizzen mast.

Because the diameter of the mast parts of the bizzen mast are smaller, I figured that I could use the lathe to make them from thicker wood and then leave out the part where the mast has a wider part: the parts where the platforms rest upon. This way the mast parts are one peice of wood.

I am happy with the result.


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  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...

The hull of the sip is now more or less finished, so next will be the rigging, which will be mostly with ropes..

Before switching to that, I could make an additional item from wood: the rowboat. I first had the idea to do the design myself, based on pictures, but during the Lelystad exhibition (my previous update), I purchased a small model for it. It is 12 cm in length. At scale 1:75, this translates into 9 meters. This perhaps a bit too long, but it just fits on deck.

Below some photos of the build.

The wood in the kit is mainly simple white wood, and I replaced some of it by nutwood. The use of white wood means that some staining is prescribed, also in the description of the kit. I did the staining, but it is now perhaps a bit too dark compared to my unstained Wasa...







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  • 2 weeks later...

Installing the rowboat on deck.

Because the bottom of the boat is not flat, I had to make a small stand for it.

Then installing on deck with rope. First I had attached the block to the ring with rope (picture 3), but the rope was too long, so I decied to install the block with a hook (picture 4). When installing the anchors, I had made this block with hook, so I used this one, although it is larger than the other block. In principle, a block with hook seems more logical, because when the rowboat is used, the rope with hook-block can be easily removed.





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  • 4 months later...

Before turning to standing rigging, I figured out that I still could to some tidying on the deck:


The ropes of the cannons. Until now, I had the ropes more or less lying around on deck. I winded them up and glued them to the deck. For winding them, I used scotch tape. I fixed the rope with diluted wood glue, removed the tape and them glued the rope to the deck, again using diluted wood glue.


Also, I made and installed the big block with which the main yard is belayed on the knight. This knight is below deck, and in my hull, there was no lower deck, so this sunken knight is glued directly to the interior frame.







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I had previously already made the masts, and now I attached the big block for the main stay. This is a 12 mm block. I used big rope to attach it to the mast, using both a clamp and a winding to secure it. At the back of the mast, I used again a winding and then two clamps to make sure that it stayed at the mast. I had seen this in the build-log of md1400cs, where I also found a reference to the Vasa museum discussion in which it was explained that for the Vasa, the foremast was made of one pole. So, no windings around the foremast.


Next step at the foremast: making and attaching the tackles. The Corel instructions mention that backstays are attached to the eyes on the channel, but the museum and the 1/10 model in the museum have tackles here. So, I chose tackles, and attached the end of the rope on the block, as I had seen on a Vasa museum photo.

A tedious job to make the tackles. I used violin blocks, and 7 mm blocks. I used windings to create some distance between the block and the hook.





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Continueing on the foremast: I have made the shrouds. I used 0.8 mm thick (as mentioned in Corel instructions) black rope for the shrouds themselves. The lanyards are almost as thick (I used rope that did not have a thickness marking on it). Perhaps this is too thick, as the Corel instructions indicate 0.25 mm. Perhaps that I will change them, or otherwise I will use the smaller rope at the upper level shrouds, like I did with the bowsprit.

One advantage of the thicker lanyards is that there is automatically a lot of friction, so even without tying the ends, the shrouds remain under tension. I noticed, that after a day already some lanyards needed some extra tensioning, because of loosening of the rope. I will wait with tying until also the foreward stay is attached.



The horizontal alignment of the triangular deadeyes is not perfect, but I am satisfied enough with it.

Also the top of the mast looks very tidy, with the 10 ropes nicely above eachother.



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My next step is the making and attaching of the stay between the foremast and the bowsprit. This stay has a mouse and the rope is partly served. To be able to make this, I made my own rope serving machine.

As guidance, I used the examples that I saw on MSW:



I have bought the gears, but all the other materials were left-overs. The tube is a 4 mm diameter metal tube.


I have used it only one time yet. I noticed that it is essential to put a lot of tension on the rope, so a clamp is needed, as only tying the rope was not enough.

The idea of the boxed encasing of the thread is that it automatically follows the winding. In my first run, I did not install it on the metal tube, but just left it at the bottom..


The rope for the stay is now served, including the mouse. Prior to the serving I made an eye splice and did some splicing for the mouse, for which I used a small wooden ring. The main difficulty was the serving around the mouse.




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I redid the serving of the rope, and also replaced the lanyards by thinner rope for the lanyards. It fits better to scale, and I noticed that it also runs better through the deadeyes, which made it actually easier to bring everything to tension.

So, first part of standing rigging is done: shrouds and stay on the foremast.




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I have finalized the main mast itself, by making seizings around it. In most other builds, I see that brown/white rope is used for this. But I did so in black rope. This seems more logical to me, as this would probably be tarred rope. And in photos of the replica of the Batavia (in Lelystad, Netherlands), I also see black rope here.

Further near the top, I added a thin band of black foil (which I had made at work..) to simulate a metal coil around the main mast. I had seen this in the build-log of md1400s, and it seemed to me a nice addition.

Further, already attached the big block for the stay from the mizzen mast.


And then made and installed the tackles on the main mast. The two tackles are here not the same as on the foremast, because now only one is with violin block and the other with a double block and with two attachments on the whales. The four violin blocks for the foremast and now one violin, I had somewhere in a box. But the sixth, I made myself, from nutwood and it looks actually better than the others..





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Hi Guy,


Thank you for alerting me.

I had not seen that those photos were not visible anymore. I do not know why these are not visible anymore. Now another try.

First for the photos that I had taken myself in the Vasa Museum. At the time of my museum visit, I had not started with building a model of it, and also had not tought about it yet. So, with hindsight, I should have taken many other shots of different views as well..

So, corresponding to my earlier post #39:













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Now also the shrouds on the main mast attached. This time the spacing of the deadeyes is more even than was the case at the foremast.


The mouse for the main stay, and the serving with black rope. Also this one proceeded easier than of the foremast. I now made the mouse itself smaller, without splicing and just with needle and some thread to fasten it.


And some overviews of the ship as it is now.









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It has become almost routine, but still a lot of time spent on also making the tackles, the shrouds and the stay of the mizzen mast.


And back to the foremast. Earlier, I had made the wooden parts of the platform. Now, the deadeyes attached. For the deadeyes on the wales, I had used clamps, but using such clamps here would not give enought height. So, I used copper wire. of 0.6 mm. The copper wire is bent alonf the bottom of the platform, and glued at the bottom, so that the angles and heights are as good as possible and these bents are then soon usable for attaching the hooks to prepare the shrouds between the platform and the lower shrouds.





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