Jump to content

Recommended Posts

This is my 1st build log on MSW and 3rd build to date. The kit was a gift from my wife who apparently found a print-out lying around in a strategically visible place. Intent going in was to follow the detail instructions provided on DVD, be as clean as my noob skills allow, but be creative with how the ship is finished. Not attempting to produce a faithful reproduction of the actual Hermoine. Experimented with a dark brown shoe cream on the gun deck. 

IMG_0518.thumb.JPG.65db538dcfa1cd18c2c63045416d977c.JPG 

No big issues during planking, pics are after initial sanding. This was my 1st build without a 2nd finish layer of planks so made more effort to get tight joints. Was a bit nervous following the instructions and not having the keel installed during planking to be able to see if I was getting a nice fit with the keel. On my last kit, deviated from the instructions and installed the keel ahead of where instructed to.  

IMG_0572.thumb.JPG.1536205f4ea485e3921d173702083a41.JPG 

Decided to see how the hull turned out stained, could always paint over if not satisfied. Happy with the results at this point.

5902618862f8e_3-Stained.thumb.jpg.8025d58ccdecdeafada85bff863c1a67.jpg

If I was going to keep the stain it needed satin poly and my master carpenter brother in-law told me to use Scotchbrite rather than sandpaper between coats. Had to order online so made the mistake here of going ahead fabricating and installing the gun port moldings, too impatient for the Scotchbrite to arrive. Pic below is after 5 coats of poly. 

590265c960305_4-Poly.thumb.jpg.3ea6108549f56082533ea88c79156633.jpg

After 1st visit to the hobby shop and art supply big box store, came back with Naphthol Red from Golden for the port moldings but after doing the ports on the open gun deck didn't like the color. Re-painted with Red Oxide (shown) so had to paint over the already installed moldings on 10 ports. Not that clean, guess I will just have to live with it and learn.

5902661d0f343_6-GunPortMoldings.thumb.jpg.d025521182e296c9d725d556abf67569.jpg

As my deck is a darker shade, used Titan Buff on the quarter round moldings. Was my 1st time using Artesania's micro-shaper for the moldings, it was easy to use and worked well. Might also use the Buff color on the cap rail moldings, will decide after installing the final additional planks on the upper hull.

5902683e32347_7-CannonDeck.thumb.jpg.84a7db587020e92fdae66b2cd8bedea0.jpg 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great work! 

 

One comment:

Hull looks in the picture like it needs more sanding

 

One question:

Can you show a biger picture of your work of the quarter round moldings?

 

Keep up the nice work

Christos

Link to post
Share on other sites

Perhaps its the lighting, as I probably sanded too much in a few places. Note the color difference between FWD/AFT in this picture.

59048b31c2eb3_8-Light.thumb.jpg.972ee74adc8b6be6ebe7a7456c619165.jpg

Here's a few larger pics of the moldings,

59048c307093d_9.5-DeckMoldings.thumb.jpg.f4ce2a828a1eca5409031e7800e33b67.jpg

59048b7ad418a_9-DeckMoldings.thumb.jpg.57bfe3947a3f1026f6a00299c83cd7a8.jpg

Forgot to include this pic of the stern in the initial set. As the plank stock pieces provided are not long enough in all cases for aft hull, cheated a bit and added an piece of plank on top of the lowest strip (#33 on illustration) on the lower aftercastle to make it easier to make a blended joint between the planks and the lower aftercastle.

59048c96d671a_5-Stern.thumb.jpg.a9099c45f8979ad3a4906e717e0b8669.jpg

59048f3a3c4a9_5.5-LowerAftercastle.png.e2957cdc1db1360f498bfadca818d552.png

Made some cradles out of the leftover wood around frames 7 + 8, balsa and weather stripping foam.

590490a237269_10-Cradle.thumb.jpg.09e2aed4990ff1b7531c9aae023ca659.jpg One thing I definitely learnt for my next hull is to color match each raw plank before using any particular plank. I didn't do this here so you can see some real color differences between some adjacent planks.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

So... First of all thank you for the pictures I have asked for. You see am going to use the micro shaper my self... I bought it (both... six plates in total) for 35  euros incl. shipping. 

 

Secondly you are right. No sanding needed any more. Planking is fine!

 

Third you are wrong. The different colours of your planks are actualy not only not a problem, but on the contrary, they represent a succes building story. Do you know any planking , if not painted ,havinng the same colour all over? No you dont!

 

Keep up the good work

Christos

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Heads Up - The instructions for the last pieces of planking on the upper hull are a bit miss-leading.

When adding the final planks, instructions P227-228 show a sloped transition between the FWD and MID sections of the top planks, going down from 7.5mm to 4mm.592edba116be3_13-P227-P228Before.png.4ab652b8bc677d2d643a4cf8c8d36d2a.png

The resulting slope is then shown in all pictures UNTIL you get to P265 when the cap moldings are being added. 

 592eddefc63e0_14A-Sloped.png.671956800d03808c220b04c96042ea9e.png

Now it's show as a square (step-down) between the FWD and AFT sections.

592ede0ec6017_15-P265After.thumb.png.1a6d2b02aa2b992d2e72776df3589861.png

The step down looks to be in-line with the edge of the opening to the gun deck so I think I'll be OK but only noticed this because I was checking ahead to see if I had done everything needed before painting the blue section. Will add the moldings mounted on the exterior of the top plank, fix this area detail and then cut the gun ports before painting the blue.

592edee6907af_16-AsIs.thumb.JPG.db6369a77f2764aa04c65a62a484b4d9.JPG592ee19151e22_17-P250molding.png.5cfed9b60b51d1c3737e5d447c0032e8.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

Was thinking about painting the small center strip on the cap rail the same "Buff" colour as the 1/4 round molding on my gun deck but after a few tries it became obvious that it wouldn't be very clean so ditched that idea. Perhaps I'll try a different paint sequence on the upper cap rail and do the lighter color first? This strip is yellow on the real paint scheme but I don't think I'll be using yellow. Will complete the finishing on the deck before add this cap rail detail.

5935acc703282_19-Paint.thumb.JPG.141658c6df2f296caf4818644289e638.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw it black... I also saw it colourless (varnished wood), but all the hull including the rail was not painted.

 

Look this pic.thats an option as well.

 

But its all a matter of personal taste.

HermioneLaFayetteWeb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Believe I have a solution for the stripe on the cap rail. Carefully scrapped the blue paint off from the cap rail molding center line sections and will cover with a bit of poly when I do the deck. Will paint the molding that will eventually go over the bottom of the blue line on the hull in Buff to match, hopefully. 

593af1f432bc5_20-CapRail.thumb.JPG.1c179534527da03f2f08f0929e60d535.JPG593af575d22a5_21-Molding.png.b667b80b071f6bf74697b6030a98e111.png

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Relatively content with how the main deck and cap railings turned out. Nothing like building to learn what not to do! Onto the deck details next and need to find a better means of blackening the cannons on this deck. Not trying for realistic finish on this model, just a clean one.

59483cd579419_22-RailingsDone.thumb.JPG.2d9b49ecebd8d0e811feddfa1909e831.JPG59483cb556fbe_23-RailingsDone.thumb.JPG.747a164d178c8a8d51261e1e569db247.JPG59483cbce09d7_24-RailingsDone.thumb.JPG.01b550d353e4aeed43e4a364c59ba323.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am planing to paint the cannons with black paint and highlight the various casting forms with lead . I made some thoughts of using the special blackening liquid from Birchwood... i did used that to blacken chain on other models and now on Hermione to make the shiny hinges of the rudder a little more dark. But the cannons seem to be made from zinc or some metal that want be easy to blacken chemical, for which also Birchwood offers no liquid (they have for brass, aluminium and silver from what I know). 

Anyway why dont you use a.mat black paint I think thats the best we can do.

2017-06-20-08-45-13-116623068.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont think vinigar will do... get a good primer the one from MS is great.... or try the valejo acrylic I think its going to be ok

1 OZ. PRIMER - MODEL SHIPWAYS PAINT - HISTORIC MARINE COLORS - MS4839

 
 
Your Price: $4.99
Link to post
Share on other sites

www.modelexpo-online .com

 

I just rechecked because its been some time since my last order. There is no minimum order (at least for Cyprus) but there is a flat shipping rate (again to Cyprus/Europe) of 20 USdollars. As the order volume grows  the shipping cost gets even bigger, but as I said thats for Europe.... Canada may be icheaper (same continent, no overseas..... I cant tell)

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Was able to order from the link Messis provided and they adjusted the normal shipping rate down, which was very much appreciated. They have a "distributor" here in Canada but they don't sell the primer. Used it on the main deck cannons but didn't notice all that much difference with the Tremclad I have been using. Shipyard has been on summer hours due to the heat and dock worker partying.

 59775c24b6ea6_25-MainDeckCannons.thumb.JPG.41c6dbb4eb9fb64ec4dc8120ecf5f772.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

 Nice build there! You did modifications concerning the color and I think its very nice!

 

I made some expiriments on the Hermione's kit cannons and I got them black using the blackening I used for bronze.

Bought it from amazon uk about 14 euros.

Birchwood Casey Brass Black
Birchwood Casey Brass Black
 
The result is great.... absolutly great!
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

In section 11-7 the instructions say to "...apply the pore sealant..." onto the photo etched parts before painting. Have never heard done this and did I find anything applicable / useful on the Google. Any suggestions on what this pore sealant is?

598b2c58c2130_PoreSealant.thumb.png.15e7f60b0addf44be4cc20058983f835.png  

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dilbert, Coming along nicely, looks like your doing a thorough job. As for pore sealer I'm sure that it refers to Sanding Sealer. A clear coat that is absorbed by the wood, when dry a light sand gives the surface a nice smooth finish having  filled up the pores so that when you varnish or paint you don't get a rough finish but a very smooth tough surface. You can use it to slightly toughen up small pieces to stop them splitting. Use it after you put on any stain though as it stops the wood from absorbing it. It comes in both water or spirit based, I prefer the spirit based stuff it dries ready for use in a few minutes. Every surface of my Royal William build has it applied, once you try it you'll love the stuff.

 

Ken

Link to post
Share on other sites

No no Ken the instructions are not refering to a wooden piece but to a fotoetched part.

 

So Dilbert I think that he means a paint primer.... as he also previously suggests by all metal parts to be painted.

Link to post
Share on other sites

A good netal primer lightly brushed so you dont leave any brush lines....this what I do.....OR:

A trick that works pretty well for me is to dip the brass fret into a cup of vinegar for a few seconds and then rinse the fret in running cold water.  That will etch the brass giving the paint something to grip.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Going to assemble the fences with these photo etched parts left "as-is" (unfinished) and see what they look like. Looks like they will fit in with my colour scheme and there aren't any other detail parts on the deck that I will need to match with this colour.  

 

598c55ed2e717_28-Photoetch2.thumb.JPG.8a8916b9ed3be9c035e9df29fb491f30.JPG

Some of the voids in the center section detail are so small I'm afraid they will fill up with paint even if I airbrush both the primer and colour coats. If I'm not happy with the results will try Messis's vinegar method and final color coat only, no primer. Don't want to mess with these tiny parts if painting them comes out looking lumpy.

598c55e33ecb0_27-Photoetch.thumb.JPG.6a7c1ee5f1d3c5e239f62991213240f0.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...