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To use full length planks or not. (EDIT BY MOD)


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As the subject says

 

100ft planks were not available (and still aren't :P ) when the models that most of us build were actually produced in real life

 

Here's my question to the hardcore builders and those with oodles of knowledge. 


Why do most use builders full length planks (as supplied by kit for example) to plank their hulls and not shorter more "scale lenghts"? - (and obviously shown the tree nails etc)

 

This may have been discussed before but I could find no particular reference

 

Would be interesting to hear the opinions/advice

Regards

Jeremy

 

Currently in the shipyard:      Meta nr 484 - Billing
                                                La Toulannaise (Billing) - on hold

 

Waiting patiently in the shed: HMS Victory - Da Agostini (collection complete and anxiously waiting :D )

                                                 IL Leudo - Amati

                                                 Lilla Dan nr 578 - Billing

                                                

 

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Beside  wood and time saving, a full length plank can give you  smoothly the curving lines of a hull, rather than a row of small planking parts.

But that depends on everyothers will.
Thx

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I am really in 2 minds as to the path I want to follow on my current build

 

On the one side, the use of "scale" planks appeals to me and on the other, wanting to make the model look good

 

Pete - I did use the "scale" length planks on the deck - its now the hull I need to do and hence the quandry. And thanks for the guide on butts!

Regards

Jeremy

 

Currently in the shipyard:      Meta nr 484 - Billing
                                                La Toulannaise (Billing) - on hold

 

Waiting patiently in the shed: HMS Victory - Da Agostini (collection complete and anxiously waiting :D )

                                                 IL Leudo - Amati

                                                 Lilla Dan nr 578 - Billing

                                                

 

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Mary1.JPG.ce95cff687da384c1f83455338e56e0a.JPG

Here is an example of something I am working on.

 

I think it depends on the model, and the desired effect. 

 

I like a wood finish rather than paint, and with this in mind, using various ( scale? ) plank lengths, creates an interesting look, that might not be as

effective when painting.


 

 

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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Thanks Gregory

 

I too am a natural man :) - love the look of natural wood

 

Something tells me that the darker wood for a hull is the way to go. The lighter wood tends to show imperfections too easily

 

My current build has the hull painted which I am not to keen on [its my build :P]

Regards

Jeremy

 

Currently in the shipyard:      Meta nr 484 - Billing
                                                La Toulannaise (Billing) - on hold

 

Waiting patiently in the shed: HMS Victory - Da Agostini (collection complete and anxiously waiting :D )

                                                 IL Leudo - Amati

                                                 Lilla Dan nr 578 - Billing

                                                

 

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4 hours ago, ctclock said:

As the subject says

 

100ft planks were not available (and still aren't :P ) when the models that most of us build were actually produced in real life

 

Why do most use builders full length planks (as supplied by kit for example) to plank their hulls and not shorter more "scale lenghts"? - (and obviously shown the tree nails etc)

 

    I'm not sure "most" do use full length planks.  Looking at build logs, I see many new modelers using the full length planks on the double plank kits, but I see more seasoned modelers going the "scale length" route.

 

    Personally, I will use a full length plank at least once on either side, BUT will score it to make artificial butt ends.  This gives me a good, continuous, even run along the entire length of the model and allows all the following strakes to set up properly.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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11 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

    I'm not sure "most" do use full length planks.  Looking at build logs, I see many new modelers using the full length planks on the double plank kits, but I see more seasoned modelers going the "scale length" route.

 

    Personally, I will use a full length plank at least once on either side, BUT will score it to make artificial butt ends.  This gives me a good, continuous, even run along the entire length of the model and allows all the following strakes to set up properly.

That makes sense Chuck - thanks for the feedback!

Regards

Jeremy

 

Currently in the shipyard:      Meta nr 484 - Billing
                                                La Toulannaise (Billing) - on hold

 

Waiting patiently in the shed: HMS Victory - Da Agostini (collection complete and anxiously waiting :D )

                                                 IL Leudo - Amati

                                                 Lilla Dan nr 578 - Billing

                                                

 

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I gather using full length planks has the advantage of making it easier to get clean strakes and hence to look neater on a model. Whether this is prototype-fashion is another question in addition to the scale plank length. The problem is to get the butting ends aligned properly. Perhaps the best way is to fit a full length plank and then to cut it into shorter sections before attaching it. This ensures that the planks have exactly the same wiidth at the butt.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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On 17.5.2017 at 5:34 PM, Pete Jaquith said:

Jeremy,

 

I prefer to use scale length planks and it helps in the shaped areas of your hull.  I have attached a table of plank butts and pictures from my "Fair American" build.

 

Pete

image0065.jpg

Very nicely done the curved planks!

Marking the positions of the butts is the best way to do, but be aware, the frames of the kits are usually not in the right positions!

 

You can see on the sketch, that the beams  - and therefore the butts - go through the scuttles. Like this the cargo would go not downwards. The position of the beams are always in front and back of the scuttles, or better saying in real life the scuttles follow the beams underneath.

 

Deck-beams.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

XXXDAn

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Thanks Dan

Regards

Jeremy

 

Currently in the shipyard:      Meta nr 484 - Billing
                                                La Toulannaise (Billing) - on hold

 

Waiting patiently in the shed: HMS Victory - Da Agostini (collection complete and anxiously waiting :D )

                                                 IL Leudo - Amati

                                                 Lilla Dan nr 578 - Billing

                                                

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi folks

Just looked in on this.

For what it's worth, the approach I have taken to this issue is to soften a plank of full length and pin it in place. I let this dry overnight. Then I take it off and cut the pre-bent plank into planks of around 30 scale feet (in the early 19th century on the US east coast they were cutting planks up to 40 ft - this will differ in different locations and different times). To cut the planks I use some little nippers which give the plank butts a very slight shamfer. Clearly when the pieces are butted together they fit perfectly.

 

Hope this is of interest.

 

Best wishes all

Don

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Its best on a double planked hull to use full length planks on the first layer, This way you get the nice even shape of the hull. Then the second layer with scale planks are easily layed with the right contours. 

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

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Planks in real ships were not always a "fixed" length. It varied from ship to ship and was dependent mostly on the length of available timbers. I wouldn't be surprised to find different lengths of planks in the same ship. That said, I always use 120mm length planks in my planking jobs, especially on decks. 120 mm is a very approximate length of planks at almost any scale. Besides, 120 can be divided exactly by 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 which facilitates some calculations when needed. :)

My 2 cents :)

 

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 19/05/2017 at 9:38 AM, wefalck said:

I gather using full length planks has the advantage of making it easier to get clean strakes and hence to look neater on a model. Whether this is prototype-fashion is another question in addition to the scale plank length. The problem is to get the butting ends aligned properly. Perhaps the best way is to fit a full length plank and then to cut it into shorter sections before attaching it. This ensures that the planks have exactly the same wiidth at the butt.

I agree with this, of course, but why making it extra difficult by cutting the planks, while scoring them would give a safer butt joint and will look exactly the same?

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My 1st wooden ship has long single strips for the 2nd planking.

 

The 2nd ship I used 4 different lengths, staggered.  The longest plank is a scale 10 meters (about 33').  This is on a 1:50 model.

 

So, from the deck on down to the keel, the plank run is every 4 layers, redundant.  I like the look, and the difficult bends were easier too, my opinion.

 

Plus, there are no very short planks to compensate.  I like the look, and the overall planking ordeal went a lot smoother and fluidly than the 'single plank method'.

Current fleet, plastic;  Cutty Sark, Revell 1975,  Gorch Fock, Heller 1986,  Royal Louis, Heller 1988,  Amerigo Vespucci, Heller 1990

To do;  Preussen and Passat, Heller

Wooden ships;  Karl and Marie, 1:50 Krick, 1991, Le Hussard (extremely bashed),  AL, scratch design, 2009

On the bench and struggling,  Dos Amigos, Occre

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