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There would be several different size lines for the standing rigging. The fore, main and mizzen back stays and fore stays are different as are the shrouds to name a few.  For the model, I would not go crazy, but if you use 3 or perhaps 4 sizes, it will probably be enough to give the impression of different sizes throughout and will look far more realistic than using one size for everything.

Allan

 

 

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1 minute ago, allanyed said:

J

There would be several different size lines for the standing rigging. The fore, main and mizzen back stays and fore stays are different as are the shrouds to name a few.  For the model, I would not go crazy, but if you use 3 or perhaps 4 sizes, it will probably be enough to give the impression of different sizes throughout and will look far more realistic than using one size for everything.

Allan

 

 

Building on the above, the fore and mainstays will be the heaviest ropes, followed by the shrouds and backstays in decreasing order and finally down to ratlines and lanyards.  A golden rule for rigging models is that, if in doubt, make it lighter rather than heavier.

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John is spot on regarding the sizes.  For more information, see RC  Anderson's "Seventeenth Century Rigging" - preferred - or "The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast". Anderson is considered the best for this period.  He focuses on British practices but does include references to Dutch, French and Spanish variations.  Since King Adolphus hired Dutch shipwrights to build the Wasa (Vasa), Dutch references are relevant.  

 

However, the best reference for rigging sizes is James Lees' "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860.   Even though he focuses on English practice, his tables are relevant to other navies.  (All bets were off when iron and steel cables were introduced.)

 

So, what are the sizes of the stays in Wasa?  Per Lees, the circumferences are 1/2 the diameter of the lower masts.  The shrouds, fore and main, are 0.6 of the appropriate stay and the mizzen is 0.8, and so on.  For modelling purposes, once I have the main stay size, I then eyeball the other lines.  As one goes up the masts, the lines become smaller.      

 

I too have used Ulises' burn method but I destroyed a bunch of line (one must keep the line moving).  Instead, I now wax the line per usual and then move it over a 60 watt bulb to melt the wax and burn off the fuzz.  

 

I visited Wasa 4 years ago and discovered that her shrouds were all brown - not black.   Hope this helps and best regards on your build~!             Duff

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Hello Duff. It is not the line what is needed to keep moving, but the flame (lighter, candle, your choice.)

What I do is fix a small clamp on my table. I then clamp the right side of the line there and hold the other end with my left hand, keeping it tense. With my right hand I quickly pass the lighter underneath the tense line. The key word here is "quickly". Fuzz is so thin it burns with the slightest amount of heat. With practice you can eliminate the fuzz in the thinnest threads.

I used to wax the line and then do the burning. The wax melted and sip into the thread, making it impervious to humidity, but later, when handling the thread, the wax started to flake and ruined the thread.

Best regards

 

Ulises

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    I would think you would get an idea of the various rigging sizes from the plans provided in the kit.

 

    I believe from past discussion that newly tarred lines would be a dark brown, but they would get darker with age.  You can use that as a guide...dark brown or brown with a little black added.  I tied that awhile back and just made a muck of it.  Now I just get the dark brown line from Syren Ship Model company (no affiliation...just the same first name).

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