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Thanks guys!  It turns out that I have neither resource. I thought I had Goodwin, but Goodwin turned out to be Lavery as well as Longridge...  I'll look though both a bit more today to see if either has diagrams.  They are both for ships of the line tho... I would "think" the planking principles would be the same as for frigates?

 

Alan

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I can't speak for Lavery and Longridge since I have no copy of these two books.

So instead, I just uploaded a sample of a 4- and 3 butt-shift system as well as a sample of hooked planks that I saved from one of the earlier threads in this forum.

If I remember correctly, there was some spirited discussion in that thread as to whether planks are nibbed or hooked, but most contemporary models in the same period as Triton support the "hooked" planks as shown in my upload.

 

DECK.gif

BUTT SHIFT.jpg

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Hi Christian,

 

Unfortunately, I only got the pictures from Chuck's post in the discussion below:

The first contemporary model is of the frigate Winchelsea and I think the second one is Minerva.

Perhaps Chuck has some other high resolution pictures of these, the low resolution pictures can be seen at the RMG website:

 

http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66277.html

 

 

 

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No problem, Alan, I'm glad to be of help. Sorry for cramming 2 large pictures on your log, I'm still learning the present format of attaching files, and I can't seem to find an option of placing a small attachment icon that would only show the picture once you click it:(

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14 hours ago, rdsaplala said:

No problem, Alan, I'm glad to be of help. Sorry for cramming 2 large pictures on your log, I'm still learning the present format of attaching files, and I can't seem to find an option of placing a small attachment icon that would only show the picture once you click it:(

No such critter this time, Aldo.  They come in big and if you upload to the max, they kit out and open a new window (in Chrome at least) of the full size picture.  Easy on the eyes it is.

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I've been trying to order the maple planking from Woodprojectsource for two days now, but keep getting the message that the site is down for maintenance. It's a little like torture! lol.   I think I'll draw out a sample planking pattern on the templates, and run it by you guys for your thoughts.  

 

Alan

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  • 5 months later...
On 2/9/2018 at 2:24 PM, knightyo said:

I've been trying to order the maple planking from Woodprojectsource for two days now, but keep getting the message that the site is down for maintenance. It's a little like torture! lol.   I think I'll draw out a sample planking pattern on the templates, and run it by you guys for your thoughts.  

 

Alan

Alan, what wood did you use for the inside planking (wood type, thickness, width) ?

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Hi Jacek,

 

I've used basswood (I think it's known as limewood in your area?) for everything so far, since it's so easy to shape/sand.  It's a great "filler" type of wood.   I'll be using pear wood however, for anything visible, and maple for the deck planking.   I do think a person could probably plank the entire lower decks with 1/8" x 1/16" basswood/limewood planks, as they wouldn't be as visible, and could easily be stained.  They are very inexpensive, pre-cut, and easy to use.  In fact, a person could build the entire ship in basswood/limewood, and stain/paint to their preference.  I just really like the look of pear wood, and how it can be treated to look "old". 

 

I also do still intend on posting a sample deck planking pattern for people to critique when I'm able to start building again.  

 

One or more of the templates in the cross-section download area shows a view of the ends of the planks so you can scale the templates to 1:64 and measure the correct thickness/width.

 

Alan

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Wood Project source is no longer in business.  They just havent taken the website down yet.   

 

For really great maple stock.  Use http://www.ocoochhardwoods.com

 

Just send them an email with the list of thicknesses you need if they arent shown in their store.   The wood is very good.  Great prices.  I wont offer Cherry or Maple because this guy and a few others like National Balsa offer great product at prices I cant compete with in teh US.  Just an FYI.

 

Chuck

 

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10 hours ago, Chuck said:

Wood Project source is no longer in business.  They just havent taken the website down yet.   

 

For really great maple stock.  Use http://www.ocoochhardwoods.com

 

Just send them an email with the list of thicknesses you need if they arent shown in their store.   The wood is very good.  Great prices.  I wont offer Cherry or Maple because this guy and a few others like National Balsa offer great product at prices I cant compete with in teh US.  Just an FYI.

 

Chuck

 

Thanks Chuck!  (I haven't forgotten about Syren either). 😊

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, I should have the opportunity tomorrow to draw out the Lower Deck planking pattern.... Chuck's Confederacy plans call for a single plank to run down the center of the deck, and planking outward from the "king" plank to both sides to the bulwarks.  What is the general consensus for Triton? Would it have had the king plank in the center? As I look at the cross section midships .pdf, it looks like there is not a king plank in the center....

 

Alan

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So I had a bit of fun the other day drawing out the deck planking.  I felt that 1/8" planks were a reasonable width, so went with that.  I can't remember if I'd mentioned before why I'm planking the lower deck, as it won't be able to be seen due to the upper decks.  The reasoning behind this is that I believe I need the practice.  It will also be a chance to experiment with new wood, and to experiment with methods of trennailing.  If I don't like the finished look, I can modify things for the upper decks, and only we will know!

 

With the end of the planks =1/3 of the plank width and the length of snipe = less than twice the width of the plank, I ended up with the below result incorporating the king plank. But.... I didn't narrow the planks as they moved towards the stem/stern.  If I had done so, they would be awfully narrow as they ended.  Thoughts?  Would it be truly inaccurate to plank the deck without narrowing the planks at the ends?  It would be pretty easy for me to erase things and start over.  I really do want the planking to be as accurate as possible.  (I  haven't yet drawn the scarfs in the margin planks, or corrected the ultra-thin planks against the margin plank in the mid ship sections. Also have not yet determined whether or not to go with a 3 or 4 plank shift).  

IMGP1586.jpg

IMGP1585.jpg

IMGP1584.jpg

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