IJN Ise 1944 by RGL - FINISHED - Fujimi - 1/350 - PLASTIC

[Dan Vadas]

3 hours ago, RGL said:

Its soo dry here the CA will not go off which is really becoming problematic as the thing with PE is getting a rapid set as it's all so small it's hard to hold for any extended period.

Personally I don't like the stuff much, but you could use a CA Kicker to make it go off immediately. Dampening the area before applying it also works, but you may get some whitening on the CA.

 

  Danny

[RGL]

I'll get there Danny. Pat, the Ise only had a short period of time out of drydock when the whole idea was seen as stupid and the catapults were removed and it became a cargo ship then an AA platform. A stationary AA platform that got the hell bombed out of it. 

 

Ergo, the period of time that it had catapults it would have precluded a lot of weathering. 

[BANYAN]

Hi Greg, would the trick of adding baking soda or talc to the thin CA work?  I have seen card modellers use this technique to get a real tough bond.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

I just picked up some bonding fluid when I got some supplies today. Anyway, 3 days work and the funnels, lots to add yet but I can't till it's painted. 

[cog]

Nice!!! Won't it be hard to airbrush behind the "crosses"?

[RGL]

Maybe, that's why I leave the stairs and ladders off, painting them off kit. 

 

The pagoda tower owner is huge on this one and will be fun to paint. 

[RGL]

The walls directly beside the stack house molded pipes (refuelling?), so I stripped them back and added some firefighting equipment. I have not glued the pipes yet as I will only place them after painting. The ring flues let them slide in and out. 

 

Its not not perfect but it gives it some depth. 

[BANYAN]

Hi Greg, those could have been awning stanchions? or even damage control shoring also.

 

Coming along well, more great detail on this one.  You make me feel positively like a snail with my build   

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

They appear to be hoses, there is a blog with a 1/100 version that shows them as white hoses. 

 

The IJN awning stanchions are fixed along the side of the ship. 

[BANYAN]

Ok, well that nails them then

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

This is going to be a long build I reckon. This section is at the bow end just below the Pagoda. Doing a bit of value adding to the 12.7 gun pits. I want to run a 1mm strip on the edges so I can place stanchions as the wooden deck will about it. 

[popeye the sailor]

seriously nice work Greg  

[RGL]

So, not much today, took the kids to school, then had a car crash when some kid decided he did not have to give way at an intersection. Nonetheless, no injury, and back to modelling. 

 

For some reason, amidships there was a small section which has to be added on and it does not sit well. Gap filled, and the degaussing cable repairs with brass. The molded plastic is actually pretty good and does not need replacement tho the Flyhawk does provide it. 

 

I have replaced the ringols on some portholes where it is not noticeable in the molded plastic. 

 

Tomorrow I have to add some card along the entire gunnels of the ship to I can drill holes for individual stanchions. 

 

 

[thibaultron]

Spray with fine mist of water. Perfume sprayer, perhaps?

[RGL]

Because the edges of the deck are so narrow, kit and aftermarket expects you to drop in PE railings. 

 

With the wooden stick on deck, there is even less room. You has see from these colourised postacards of a Fuso class, the edge is quite substantial and have individual stanchions. 

 

As such I've placed some plastic strip around the edges where the wooden deck will drop in. The idea is to fill the gaps with putty, then pre drill all the stanchion holes. Well, that's the idea. 

 

You can see there is also two brass strips amidships which may or may not drill requiring a PE railing. 

[CDW]

Hey, that looks very good.

Are you saying there will be a gap after the deck drops inside the strips you installed? I can't really understand where and what will require putty unless it's that.

[RGL]

Sorry, gaps st the joins of the plastic strips. The deck will probably have to be trimmed to fit inside the strips. Just broke 1 drill bit trying to drill the PE so that answers that question. 

[CDW]

Greg, it was a real pain in the rear, but I managed to drill holes in the photo etch by chucking my drill bit in my rotary tool and using the tool on it's very lowest speed setting. It requires very slight pressure to keep from snapping the bit and keeping it from any lateral movement that will snap it, but it worked for drilling some holes in PE. Can't get a lot of holes drilled without breaking a bit here and there, but it can be done that way and more successfully than with my pin vise as while trying to drill with it, end up snapping my bit with unintended lateral movement. 

[RGL]

I'm kind of meandering with this build. The flight deck has some bonus dimples innit which I've rectified, and you can see the 'railings' really aren't and will be an aftermarket instillation. 

 

Underneath there is the the beginning of the latticework which is actually quite simple so far. 

[RGL]

The side of the ship below the flight deck has platforms for 25mm MG's and another platform for rocket launchers (not shown yet). 

 

I have scribed some pannels as i cannot see it being one continuous piece of steel. 

[cog]

Nice work, do you have the Japanese battleships Fuso and Ise (Ship Craft series by Robert Brown ISBN 978-1-4738-8337-6) Which has some useful information, also on the rigging

Cheers

[RGL]

Yes mate I got it on kindle, 50% of the book is about what aftermarket is available for it, and it brushes over the service history of the ships. 

[cog]

To small on kindle for me to be able to read it, must be getting real old. Got it for ten quid at amazon.co.uk, but you're right a lot of after market information for both type of ships. The service history is interesting on the Ise as she's been refitted and "reshaped"

[BANYAN]

Nice progress greg, another fine example of detailing.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

Small update, this piece is the rocket launcher platform that sits at the stern. Apparently they were fairly inaccurate and bloody dangerous to use, so you had to run and hide in the rooms behind them. 

 

I've value added a bit and managed to break my last drill bit doing up the stanchion holes. 

 

[RGL]

Next, back to the rear deck. There are 12 turntables, requiring me to buy 2 sets of Alliance model works railing sets. I've started on the railings and will probably use a hole punch to make up the last two turntables. Looks so much better than the kit "apathy", apparently aircraft could only fly off via the catapult anyway and the only way this would work is to use the traditional railing system. 

 

The deck itself was concrete, used as a counterweight as the rear two turrets were removed. Photos and video of the Ise show the blocks of cracked concrete and the railings. About a day's work to go on this then I'll flip it and continue with the underside. 

[RGL]

And 80 individual railings later, back deck done for now. 

[BANYAN]

You should have been a surgeon Greg - steady hands

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

The Japanese ships had these huge Pagoda towers. Given they are so intricate I am going to try and construct it so it pulls apart for ease of painting and add the multitude of ladders afterwards. 

 

Im still awaiting drill bits so I can't progress the rear of the bus. 

 

So far, that's the first two stories of 9. 

[RGL]

2 more levels, the enclosed bridge should have s lot of detail but it really will not be visible so I may just throw in some of the kit supplied binoculars etc to give some silhouette. Lots of guns and directors to be added much later.