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IJN Battleship Mikasa by CDW - 1:200 scale - Plastic - Wave Models


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Here's my beginning for the 1:200 Wave Models IJN Battleship, Mikasa, construction project. Along with the basic model kit, I have the Pontos Detail Set and an Artwox wooden deck.

The Artwox deck and kit were purchased at the same time, but the Pontos set only became available for me later. The Pontos set also contains a wooden deck, so in the course of construction, will determine which deck looks best and use that deck.

In case you are wondering, it appears that Wave Models and Merit Models are the same kit in a different box. It's also worth noting that the Wave Models kit I have here appears to be produced with the Asian market in mind as both the instructions and the color guide are all written in Chinese only.

As always, the Pontos detail set is beautiful. Lots of machined brass parts, some resin bits, and 10 large sheets of photo etch. The brass props included with the set are jewels.

Over the next few days, will begin construction of this kit and posting of progress photos.  

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Hi Craig,

 

Glad to see you choose Mikasa for your next build.  As you've probably gathered I will be following this one closely as it's in my stash to do...but that's way down the line.  I already have the MK1 deluxe detail set but I am tempted to get the Pontos set as well and use the best bits of both. I wish I had waited for the Pontos set as that would have been my preference.

 

Looking forward to more.

 

Cheers

Slog

 

 

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Thanks fellas...the length of the hull is roughly 27", but she has a wide beam. It will be large enough to see it well, but not so large so that it's hard to display.

I was reading a bit on the Battle of Japan Sea, or the Battle of Tsushima, whichever you prefer to call it. It's interesting enough that it makes me want to research it a bit more.

A few days after the Russian's surrendered, the Mikasa sank when her magazine accidentally exploded. She was then salvaged and put back into service. Since, she has been restored and now is on display in Yokosuka. 

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The hull halves in my kit were just a bit warped, so that when they were joined, there was a gap in the middle. it took some serious persuasion to get the halves to match and join in the middle. I first made sure each fore and aft ends were securely taped and glued, then pulled the middle together and applied glue, then tape, just a few inches at a time working from each end toward the middle. As each area glued had dried, moved more toward the center in similar fashion and repeated until it was all joined together. As it is, there are only two small areas that will require some very light filler to conceal a fine crack. For reinforcement and to add glue surface area, glued some styrene inside the hull at the joint.

Next, there are a lot of Pontos guns to build.

 

 

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"great strategy on the Japanese side" ... Being a feudal empire, that's one thing you should expect, although, considering their conquering moves, it might have been better if the Europeans had left them on their island fighting amongst themselves and just sailed by ... on the other hand, we wouldn't be building these impressive ships(!)

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I'm not going to keep kicking a dead horse, I promise.

HOWEVER...if anyone else (Capt. Slog?) decides to build this Mikasa-Pontos combination, do yourself a huge favor and take your time reviewing and re-reviewing the Pontos photo instructions and photo etch sheets before starting construction. There are a LOT of details that are not numbered on the instruction sheet, but you have the parts on the photo etch sheets to replace raised, molded details on the ship. In some cases, the instruction photos will show you what to remove. In some cases, they won't show you what to remove. In other cases, there are no photo etch part numbers given at all on the instruction photos for the corresponding photo etch parts. You just need to review the photo etch sheets and make mental or written notes (maybe both) of what you see in the way of parts on the photo etch sheets, then try to figure out where they should go. Some parts are obvious, like the rings and eyebrows that go around/over the portholes. Oddly, the instruction photos don't picture or mention these at all, but all those parts are on the photo etch sheets. Same goes for hand holds and grab bars located on the hull. I don't yet know the full extent of what is and is not shown on the plans, I've only begun to scratch the surface while prepping the hull for primer and building the 6" guns that go inside the casemates. 

I'll try to get some pictures posted shortly.

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Not a lot to show here, but here is the hull with portholes drilled out, red marking the raised detail that must be removed and replaced with photo etch. In addition, you'll see the 6" casement guns that simply require removal of the stock plastic gun barrels, drilling out the breach, then replacing the plastic barrel with brass.

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Craig,

 

excellent choice of model. I too, just purchased the HobbyBoss Mikasa in the scale of 1/200 (another re-edition of the Wave/Merit//Trumpeter kit) and love the look of these early dreadnought ships. Since I paid less than $100 for the kit (Squadron + coupon), I am a little bit reluctant to spend $300 for the Pontos detail kit. Instead I went with the Artwox wood kit and the guns made by an East European company. They are extremely fine and detailed and possibly better than the Pontos.

 

Needless to say, I will be following your build log with a lot of interest.

 

Yves

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Thanks Yves.

You got an excellent deal on your Mikasa from Squadron. I found my Pontos set at Freetime Hobbies online for around $220. But the Pontos sets have proven to be hard to acquire as I suppose they sell out as soon as the shops get them in stock. The Mikasa comes with a surprising amount of photo etch without buying anything extra, and I have no doubt you can build a beautiful model with the items you have acquired.

I hope to see you start a build thread when you start yours.

Regards

Craig

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33 minutes ago, RGL said:

Do a google translate search for mikasa torpedo booms in both Russian and polish. Then look at the images, there are a LOT of amazing modellers in Eastern Europe. 

I had no idea I could do a Google translate search or that there is such a thing. Will look into it and explore. Google translate is an app I need to install?

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There are quite a few hand hold locations to drill out on the Mikasa hull.The Pontos set includes some nifty little templates for getting all the holes lined up properly for drilling. I'm glad this feature is included as I find it a real pain to get all the holes marked out evenly using just a pencil and ruler.

 

 

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I might have solved my problems of breaking micro drill bits so often while using my pin vise. It's my belief that half the problem comes from unwanted lateral movement caused by hand drilling and that ends up breaking the bits. The other half (at least half) is caused by using cheap, hobby grade bits. While I haven't yet locally sourced industrial grade bits, I have found a solution for keeping a steady, straight drill bit while drilling.

I am now using a little hand held cordless screw driver that accepts 1/4" quick change bits. Then, I found a micro drill chuck with a 1/4" quick change shank. Found mine at Amazon.

Now, I am breaking bits far less often, drilling small holes with much less effort, and far faster.  

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