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HMS Diana By Barbossa - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64 - The 1794 Attempt

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 Sjors & Patrick good to hear from you and thanks for looking in, comments and all the likes. 


Hi B.E. and Jason : also good to hear from you

Regarding the seats of ease  : I'll defnintely need to check out the plans. I have the unpleasant feeling to have overlooked/forgotten something. Ahem...


The cheecks & rails placement ( Yes, those pics were intentioned ) : although I used the supplied cheecks & rails , I noticed a gap between the lower rail and the figure-head's feet. As my carving and scratching skills were ( and still are ) limited, I made a kind of a connection piece. So in fact : you have the cheeck, the connection piece and the lower rail itself. The blue strip is just a painted paper strip which  I glued upon the rails.

Now it's position : If my understanding of the plans is correct : there's supposed to be a smaller plank just above the wales. When you take a look at the last pic you may notice a walnut plank between the black wales and the yellow wood. This one was supposed also to be painted in black, but I did not like the sight of that. But this is only my personal point of view.

In summary : I fixed the lower rail according and on top of the "real" wale.

Jason , I perfectly understand your frustration regarding this (quite visible) detail : the more sources you look up, the more different answers you get .

A compromise beckons ? 

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Hi Christian, I have had a look in the AotS book on Diana and David White does not show additional seats of ease in the aft corners of the headworks, but that space on your model is exactly where such seats would be fitted.

David Antscherl in Vol 11 of tffm  (Para 11.33) does indicate fitting of these additional seats as an option for the Swan model. I didn't on my Pegasus because the headworks are quite small and a Sloop is a much smaller ship than a Frigate.


In the book are photo's of the Frigate Minerva model (Rogers Collection) which clearly shows these additional seats of ease, and my inclination would be to fit them over that space or at least fill it in with additional grating strips.





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Hi B.E. I couldn't agree more. This makes 100 % sense . I have plenty leftovers from the same material where the genuine gratings came from ( Yes walnut indeed....:angry: ).

But gratings it must be. No solid material.  Foring 2 holes and connecting them + filing out for obtaining the required slit is the first method that comes across my mind.


Thanks again for your sound advise


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Filling up the gaps on the Gallion


Things went less easy then I expected. But other Diana builders may perhaps take some benefit out of this. As the pics show : on both sides an eyebolt that receives standing rigging coming from the bowsprit obstructed somehow the operation so I could not reach into the corners. So one may want to fore these holes ( for the eyebolts ) just one or a few mm higher, building instructions were not that clear to me. Nonetheless I'm quite satisfied : this awkward void is filled up and the lads may feel a bit more comfortable...

First pic show the necessary tools and a try out made out of card


Now back to the yards !








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  • 2 months later...

Hi Folks, running rigging almost completed (dolphin striker and yet lot of trimming to do), lots of pics are to come

But first a few comments :

The process was pretty straight forward according to building instructions but I also relied upon Ray's building log ( Thank you Ray )

For fellow Diana builders : please take a look at drawings 25 and 27 related to the masttops. You may want to fore those holes before fixing them upon the mast and certainly before mounting the yards ( ahem...;))


I painted the connection pieces for the yard extensions (brackets?) in Vallejo 70.994 dark grey, for a little contrast.

Although I still can,  I did not fix the blocks to secure the topsail yards on the shrouds as I was a bit anxious to avoid any awkward tension on the same shrouds

Furthermore, some rigging is to be fixed on the shrouds just above the upper deadeye ( + cleats) . For the same reason, I wasn't to kean for this so I fixed the rigging on the lower deadeye. It's hardly visisble. This allows to add extra tension on the thread thus to obtain an as straight as possible rigging.

The footrope stirrups are of my own making.

So enjoy part 1 of 3









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Hi BE and Chris, thanks for the kind comments

Ulises : for the record : a pencil code 1 or H will do just fine for the caulking job.

Meanwhile , I took care of the Dolphin striker.

While we're at it : I do not recall that an appropriate block -on which the dolphin striker is attached- was supplied that would allow a perpandicular position of the dolphin striker towards the surface.

As I didn't like it to describe an angle (following the angle of the bowsprit), I succeeded more or less making one  myself.




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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Timmo, Sjors and Jason


Timmo :Thanks for looking in

We just came back from the sunny Greek Islands. As from tomorrow I'll check out some buildlog's and yours is on the priority list. Instead of hitting another "souflaki", I just might hit the like button:)


Sjors : I have something on my mind . There's some study work and a prototype in card involved( at least the hull) . Also HMS Diana may feature as a sort of a benchmark. I know I'm talking in riddles now but yet I need to figure out some things  regarding this next project.


Hi Jason : regarding the crowsfeet I let myself go a bit there as the genuine Diana had no . But I liked the sight of it as I wanted her to look like a classic "second half of the 18th century British frigate"

Furthermore : you're doing a fantastic job. As I'm not resuming professional work the days to come, I'll take some more time to look in your log.



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  • 4 weeks later...


Running rigging almost done except the tack toggles. For reasons of accessibilty I'd rather move over to  the rope coils and belaying pins and take care of the  tack toggles later.

I found it easier to execute the running rigging and insert the belaying pins afterwards which previously brought me to the following dilemma : increase the diameter of the holes from the pieces that are to receive the belaying pins or decrease the diameter of the part to insert from the belaying pins ?

As the pieces that are to receive the  belaying pins are made of walnut, finally I decided not to take my chances on this bet as I was a bit anxious to split them.

So the only option left was to decrease the diameter of the belaying pins. I admit this is also a risky business as we're talking about very tiny parts. Until now I haven't broken any of them and the stuff will mostly be covered by the rope coils anyway ( I'm such a cheat :P )

Anyway, here's the actual status - part 1 of 2







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  • 1 month later...



Little progress as I we spent some time at the coast...

Still struggling with the rope coils : this is definitely a no-fun chapter to me, although I try to make this as realistic as can be, still not entirely satisfied with the result.

no harm done : it's all dry fit




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