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Ok , i think i have seen enough . I,m in . My not so recent attempt at the Triton POF and several return attempts has convinced i need to learn more before attempting such a complicated project without instuctions and tools so the" Winne" sounds like the perfect project . Part of my problem is lookin for shortcuts and not following advice so hopefully with so many other builders and off course the masters advice i can settle myself to lisen to my superiors and do as i,m told . My plan is to do a complete scratch build from the plans although some parts , eg carving may be beyond me . I do have a fair bit of pear wood in stock from my triton efforts and wonder how that would look in this build ?  I,m not a fan of painting and again this could cause some problems ,but will look into diff colored woods before i begin . Will take a couple of weeks before i set up a build log but lookin forward to joining this happy group . Standards are high but thats the way to learn i guess . look forward to seeing u all soon .Oh btw    Chuck your a genius.................

 

Boyd 

Edited by shihawk
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Thank You!!!!  No short cuts here but it will be a lot easier than a pof build.  I would resist the urge to mix and match too many woods.  It will look pretty awful.  Basically we are gonna use two colors.  Black and red.  If you think ahead and visualize the finished model.  Too many wood choices along with a painted freeze will look like a Christmas tree....Way to much.

 

keep it simple and folks will actually finish.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I took a stab at making some videos that show how I plank the bow of any ship model.  Specifically how to taper and edge bend a strip so that it lays flat against the bulkheads.   This is basically how I plank every hull at the bow.  I shot these videos at 720 HD quality so rather than string together the four videos into one long 20 minute session, I kept them individual.   They take forever to upload to you tube when they are 20 minutes long.   Literally hours.  So these are four short 5 minute videos instead. A lot easier to upload and process.   I will edit this post and add the other 3 as I finish processing them for upload.  Basically each part is split into an intro.....then tapering.....then edge bending.....and test fitting on the hull.

 

Let me know if you have any questions.   Keep in mind its weird making these when I am alone in my shop and basically talking to myself.  I had to reach around the tripod i order to get to the model and I was hitting it and had to start over many times....not my cup of tea all this video stuff!!!!  😂  Let me know if you think its worth the time as it is a real pain in the biscuit .  But I will continue if you guys get anything out of it.  I also must have had the camera too close to the hull so the first two videos are not as crisp as the others.   Live and learn.....next time it will be better  but I tried to get as close to the hull as possible so you could see everything.

 

The videos are posted here.....in the discussion about chapter two.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just letting you guys know that I have been steadily making progress.  Planking is not something that can be rushed.   No matter how well you make all of the other fittings and parts on a model, if your planking is bad that is all anyone will ever notice.   So go slow and keep it clean and neat with tight joints.   

secondbeltdone.jpg

If you see yourself going off your lining off tick marks with a  strake, no need to worry.  Then you should correct it with the next strake or two in order to get back on your marks.  Keep flipping the hull "right-side-up".....as you should check your run of planks every strake or two and make adjustments when needed.   Below you can see the tapered planks along the tuck and the transition of the planks onto the stern post rabbet.  Note the plank in the corner where the ends transition from the counter to along the rabbet strip.  The cedar is working out nicely and I think the color looks good on a model this size.  You guys can of course judge for yourselves but if you are building a frigate or other larger subject, this is a good choice.  Its a bit soft bu once you get accustomed to using it,  it really looks good.   I have only used a bit of wipe on poly on the planking.

secondbeltdone1.jpg

I have completed two belts on the port side and am finishing of the second belt on the starboard.  Once completed I will reverse direction and start planking from the keel ....upward in order to finish up the hull planking.  You can see my planks entering the stem rabbet below.

secondbeltdone2.jpg

 

Questions and comments are always welcome from the group.

 

Chuck

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  • 2 weeks later...

garboardstrake2.jpg

Planking continues....it is important for me to go slow and take care to make this a neat planking job.  The planked hull is so visually important because of the size of this model that I am being very deliberate with each plank added.  I am planking with the hull upside down and although the strakes look very good when viewed upside down, after I finish each strake I will flip the hull over so I can view it right side up.  The run of the planks will look very different and this allows me the opportunity to make adjustments with the next strake if needed.  

 

I want a nice slope up of the planks at the stern.....but also at the lower bow.   So even though I am following my tick marks very closely....I am still making adjustments when I see a dip or bump in the run develop.

 

Remember that there are NO stealers at the stern.  There is only that one drop plank at the bow.  With these lower belts, you can run the planks off the stern post rabbet and then sand them back flush.  We will add the stern post when planking is completed.

 

Note the front of the garboard and its shape along with where it ends in relation to the scarf joint on the keel.  It is not too far forward and its not too far aft.  The end is about 1/16" forward of that joint on the keel.

 

garboardstrake.jpg

 

At the stern, the strakes were sanded flush to the rabbet.....and note the gentle slope upward being created.   I only have six more strakes left on this side and you can see how I am following my lining out.   You can see the remaining tick marks and picture the run of the remaining planking.  At the stern on this lower belt, you must switch to wider 5/16" planks and shape them according to your tick marks.   The planks along the stern post do get wider as one would expect.

 

garboardstrake1.jpg

Let me know if you have any questions !!!!  Comments are welcomed.   No stealers at the stern which matches the contemporary model and will look very distracting.  There is absolutely no need to use them.

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Almost forgot to mention....at this stage you can remove the brackets on your baseboard.  They did their job.  You will need t make a work cradle.  To do this, use the templates for the bulkheads which have the curve and shape needed.  I will use three pairs just like the brackets.   They will be positioned where the brackets were.   You will see those on the next update.

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Chuck, beautiful work as always. I'm a bit behind you on my planking and that's a good thing. Your photos are very helpful, but as always make things seem easier than they really are. Now would be a great time for all those building the Winni to chime in on some of Chuck's expertise in planking techniques.

 

Mike

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Thanks.....:)

 

No questions means that planking is going to be a piece of cake for folks....LOL.   Seriously though guys...any questions or comments on how the planking up to this point?   You guys are awfully quiet on the subject.  Slow and steady is the best advice I can you guys.

 

Chuck

 

 

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OK Chuck I have a question. In planking the bow of Cheerful I found that some of the planks fit into the rabbet were less than perfect. Most ended up sprung against the stem member but a few had drifted away from that tight condition. Here is how I was planking the bow:

1. slight bevel on the fore end of the plank on the underside of the plank

2. plank end tapered to the stem angle

2. heat bent around a canister cap with a radius slightly tighter than the bow radius.

3. theoretically the tighter radius when glued in forced the plank up tight against the stem

 

Should I have skipped step one?

Joe

Edited by Thistle17
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No you have to bevel the end of the plank to match the stem rabbet angle .  That is correct.  Once against the rabbet and glued in ,the plank shouldnt move.   As you get closer to the keel that angle changes a lot and its the glue that keeps it tight against the stem neatly.   

 

Your bevel was probably wrong or you didnt secure it in place with enough glue.  You shouldnt have to force it as your plank should be pre bent so it fits properly from the start.  If it springs away then it should be pre shaped more.

 

hope that helps

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Joe, here are my findings regarding the planks going into the stem. .

 

1. Bevel the outside edge that goes into the stem as well as the inside edge. I find that it's the best way to hide the inside edge of the stem, leaving a nice transition between the plank and stem.

2. I have not found it necessary to bend the plank along its length around a "canister cap" or other round shape. I Just edge bend the plank enough so that its edge conforms nicely to the plank below while at the same time hugging the bulkheads that it crosses.

 

Mike

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Hi Chuck - incredible job, so far!

 

My question is more a point of curiosity:

 

I noticed that as your garboard strake runs aft, close to the stern post, there’s a slightly stepped transition from one plank width to the last more narrow plank section that runs into the stern post.

 

This appears very deliberate, and I was wondering whether it had something to do with the rabbet.

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Yes the rabbet actually stops at that step.  This is a common feature and is actually shown on most original drafts.   The issue is that all ......and I mean all kit MFGs just ignore this feature.   

 

You can see it on the original draft where the dimension of the keel changes.  It might be tough to see in this photo but its there as well on the contemporary model.  Our model has the exact same number of strakes by the way.

 

F9288-002.jpg

 

Chuck

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A milestone today....I finished the planking on the port side.   That feels good!!!

 

I still have 9 strakes on the starboard to go.  I am happy with the results although as always you always tend to spot and focus on your mistakes.  I am very happy with how the cedar looks on such a large subject.  I will let you guys decide if you like it as a good wood to use on such projects.

 

I have only used wipe on poly...I decided not to use the gel stain after seeing how the finish looks.  The wales are a mess and will need to be cleaned up but I will wait until all of the planking is done.  I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel...BUT then there is the treenailing.....Ughh!!

 

Comments and questions , dont hesitate. 😊

 

plankingfin.jpg

plankingfin1.jpg

plankingfin2.jpg

plankingfin3.jpg

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I finished the Essex today so the Winnie is up next. I am waiting on my Hobbyzone building slip to arrive, sometime next week I hope.  I am worried about ripping all those planks and keeping all the demensions correct. I have a Micromark saw but the fence on that thing really sucks. I am thinking seriously of getting a Byrnes Saw but I have to ask the Admiral if I get it in the divorce. With the bulkheads, parts 1 and 2 of the model, carvings and Byrnes saw I would be in over a Grand. BUT she loves how the Essex looks, I showed her the Winnie’s bulkheads and she was truly impressed. 

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