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Hello,

   Im just back from a long hiatus from building.  I am finishing up a build of Constitution and am hoping that the timing may be good with a new group build here.  Is this group build still open to new people:?

 

Thanks,

Frank B. 

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  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, Chuck said:

very slow....with all the work on MSW being done while trying to catch up with my rope and block inventory, I havent worked on the Winnie in several weeks.  I hope to resume shortly....😀

Chuck: Great news! Im hoping to get at that project soon. Just getting to rig sails on the Agamemnon so the completion of my existing project is in sight.. Cant wait.. 🙂

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry for the delay since the last update.  You guys have been buying huge amounts of blocks and rope.

 

 

Planking the deck.....

 

First after making all of the coamings, gratings, stove platform and mast partners, they were all glued into position down the center line of the deck.  Once placed in position, I immediately added a single deck plank (1/4" wide and 3/64" thick) down the center line between the coamings and partners.   Do this very carefully, trying to line it up consistently down the center.  You will be lining off the deck on either side and you want to make sure everything comes out even on both sides of the deck.  In the photo below you can see the strip down the center.  Also note how I decided to paint the frame of the stove platform black to simulate an iron frame instead of a natural wood frame.

deckplank.jpg

You will notice that there are laser etched reference lines that break up the deck into belts just like our hull planking.  There is the center belt of seven planks.....three more on each side of this center plank we added.   Then there are two more belts on either side of this center belt.   They are separated by the etched lines which you will use for reference when lining it off.  There are also etched lines that run across the deck which indicate where the beams would be and will help you locate the butt joints for the deck planking.  NO LASER ETCHED FULL DECK ON THIS MODEL.   We will learn how to properly line off the deck so you can do this on any model you build.

 

Note in the photo below the small square forward of the mizzen mast.  It has what looks like little sheaves in it.  Those arent sheaves at all.  They are actually slots which are used for the tiller rope that runs around the drum of the ships wheel and down to the tiller.  We will be simulating the rope running below the gun deck and up to the wheels drum later.   This is glued down the center line as well and you will plank the deck carefull around it.

deckplank1.jpg

Now for this era the deck planking wasnt just straight down the deck fore and aft.  It was elegantly curved and tapered at the bow and stern.   This is a common mistake seen in many kits.   See the contemporary model below.  I havent given the planks as drastic a curve and I am being a bit conservative with it.  Although you can see just the forecastle planking its the same curvature.

 

F9288-005.jpg

In order to create a plan we have to line off the hull to find out how much taper is needed for the planks etc.   Just like the outboard hull planking.

 

We will first just complete that center belt.   This is easy enough.   Take out your planking fans!!!  Cut some tick strips from some paper.  There are three planks on each side of the center strip.  Take a tick strip and hold it against the edge of the center strip.   Then mark the location of the etched line defining this center belt.   Do this in a few places between all the coamings and hatches. 

deckplank2.jpg

Then take the strip over to your planking fan and fit that space so three plank widths fill it up as shown below.

 

deckplank3.jpg

Then go back to that spot on your model and transfer those tick strips to the false deck.

 

deckplank4.jpg

Note how the deck planking will be tabbed around the coamings just like around the gun ports on the hull.   Leaving thin wood planks around the hull would be prone to rot and therefor they would use a tab like shown to avoid such thin strips of deck planking.  This is shown on the plans....check them out.

 

Now its time to plank the first center belt after you finish your tick marks on both sides of the center strip.  Use 1/4" planks and transfer the width you will need to your strips to cut the tapers.....just like you did when planking the hull.  ANY QUESTIONS???

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Chuck, good to see you back 0n Winnie again.

You mention the curve on the forward planking, will this be curved the same way we did the hull planking or will they be laser cut?

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No laser cutting....this is the perfect hull and deck to learn this technique.   You wont really even have to bend them with heat.  But you could if you wanted to....these planks should bend fine when you glue them on as the curve isnt very severe at all.  I was very conservative with it.   I saw how folks had a hard time with the hooked scarphs on the Cheerful so I made it so there were just four of them.   This meant less curve to the deck planks.   

 

Below you can see that the center belt has been planked.  I simulated the seams with pencil like I did with the hull planking.  There are never any butt joints in this center belt between coamings and partners.  This is yet another common mistake seen on models and kits including on kits that provide laser etched planks.   The distance was short enough that it was always one length used between the hatches and partners.  It was stronger this way.   So no need to follow the butt joint pattern you will be developing when we line off the hull on either side of the center belt.

deckplank6.jpg

You will also notice in that picture above and below that on either side of the center belt I have lined off the deck using thin strips of black masking tape.   Looks familiar right?  The thin strips follow tick marks I made for the remaining belts.  I made them the same way as I did for the center belt.  Use your tick strips and planking fan.  Use the laser etched lines that represent the deck beams as you repeat this process until you have tick marks on both sides of the deck for all of the remaining belts.  The tape runs along my tick marks.   You will no doubt have to make adjustments with your tape.  Just run it off the deck and onto the margin planks as shown.

 

To finish it up.....use a mechanical pencil with a sharp point to run a pencil line down the "good side"  of you tape that follow your tick marks.......then remove your tape.

deckplank5.jpg

When you remove the tape it will look like this......you can do this down the entire deck but I often do just the bow area and the stern where there is a taper and we need to create the hooked scarphs along the margin planks.  Do you see where I created the hooked scarph in the outside deck plank????  I just erased some of the line that followed the tape and added a new short line to create the shape.   On this hull there will be just one along the margin plank at the bow and one more aft........by the checkered floor for the great cabin.  In addition you can mark all of the butt joints on the deck using the typical 4 butt shift pattern.   Use the laser etched reference lines for the deck beams for this and examine the plans for their locations.deckplank7.jpg

deckplank8.jpg

Now I am ready to plank the remaining two belts on each side of the center belt to finish off the deck planking.  I will taper the planks as need to match my lining off just like we did for our external hull planking.

 

You will need just 1/4" x 3/64" strips to plank the deck and a handful of wider 5/16" strips for the planks around the coamings where you need to shape them around the tabbed areas.

 

deckplank9.jpg

I feel compelled to mention that you guys could absolutely change the deck planking to a more severe curve at the bow if you want to.  Just adjust the bands before you line off.  
 

Almost no kits or even most scratch builders fail to curve the deck planks like this.  Its very different than what many of you are probably used to seeing.  So I split the difference between the drastic curve at the bow and straight planking to show a more conservative curve so it wouldnt seem so drastic to all of you.  This is something you guys should play with depending on your preference as the contemporary model for Winnie shows the most severe curve I have ever seen on a deck.   Here is a look at the contemporary model of Minerva in the Rogers collection and it shows about the same amount of curvature that I am using on the Winnie.  Much less than the contemporary model for Winnie.  This also shows two hooked scarphs instead of one.   So you can get creative here.   

 

scraphjointminerva.gif

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not something that was done in reality.   It would not be historically accurate in the least.  But it is your model.   As long as you like it.   

 

Chuck

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Good evening Mr. Passaro, I wanted to ask about the cover that appears on the Wini plan, it is observed that it is interrupted, but I understand that this is not correct, there was no staircase in that place. I have doubts about this information, sir, I hope you can clarifies, thanks.

wini.png

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Jorge,  the break at the forecastle you see is very much typical and correct.  Later they continued it to the forecastle but early on this was indeed the way it done.  Just have a look at the many contemporary sources available. Too many to list but here are some contemporary examples.

image.png

 

image.png

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/19/2020 at 1:32 AM, Chuck said:

No laser cutting....this is the perfect hull and deck to learn this technique.   You wont really even have to bend them with heat.  But you could if you wanted to....these planks should bend fine when you glue them on as the curve isnt very severe at all.  I was very conservative with it.   I saw how folks had a hard time with the hooked scarphs on the Cheerful so I made it so there were just four of them.   This meant less curve to the deck planks.   

 

Below you can see that the center belt has been planked.  I simulated the seams with pencil like I did with the hull planking.  There are never any butt joints in this center belt between coamings and partners.  This is yet another common mistake seen on models and kits including on kits that provide laser etched planks.   The distance was short enough that it was always one length used between the hatches and partners.  It was stronger this way.   So no need to follow the butt joint pattern you will be developing when we line off the hull on either side of the center belt.

deckplank6.jpg

You will also notice in that picture above and below that on either side of the center belt I have lined off the deck using thin strips of black masking tape.   Looks familiar right?  The thin strips follow tick marks I made for the remaining belts.  I made them the same way as I did for the center belt.  Use your tick strips and planking fan.  Use the laser etched lines that represent the deck beams as you repeat this process until you have tick marks on both sides of the deck for all of the remaining belts.  The tape runs along my tick marks.   You will no doubt have to make adjustments with your tape.  Just run it off the deck and onto the margin planks as shown.

 

To finish it up.....use a mechanical pencil with a sharp point to run a pencil line down the "good side"  of you tape that follow your tick marks.......then remove your tape.

deckplank5.jpg

When you remove the tape it will look like this......you can do this down the entire deck but I often do just the bow area and the stern where there is a taper and we need to create the hooked scarphs along the margin planks.  Do you see where I created the hooked scarph in the outside deck plank????  I just erased some of the line that followed the tape and added a new short line to create the shape.   On this hull there will be just one along the margin plank at the bow and one more aft........by the checkered floor for the great cabin.  In addition you can mark all of the butt joints on the deck using the typical 4 butt shift pattern.   Use the laser etched reference lines for the deck beams for this and examine the plans for their locations.deckplank7.jpg

deckplank8.jpg

Now I am ready to plank the remaining two belts on each side of the center belt to finish off the deck planking.  I will taper the planks as need to match my lining off just like we did for our external hull planking.

 

You will need just 1/4" x 3/64" strips to plank the deck and a handful of wider 5/16" strips for the planks around the coamings where you need to shape them around the tabbed areas.

 

deckplank9.jpg

I feel compelled to mention that you guys could absolutely change the deck planking to a more severe curve at the bow if you want to.  Just adjust the bands before you line off.  
 

Almost no kits or even most scratch builders fail to curve the deck planks like this.  Its very different than what many of you are probably used to seeing.  So I split the difference between the drastic curve at the bow and straight planking to show a more conservative curve so it wouldnt seem so drastic to all of you.  This is something you guys should play with depending on your preference as the contemporary model for Winnie shows the most severe curve I have ever seen on a deck.   Here is a look at the contemporary model of Minerva in the Rogers collection and it shows about the same amount of curvature that I am using on the Winnie.  Much less than the contemporary model for Winnie.  This also shows two hooked scarphs instead of one.   So you can get creative here.   

 

scraphjointminerva.gif

 

 

 

wonderful work as always, is it going to be rigged ? if not wil there be plans for that? 

maby i have to jump inn 😲

 

svein erik

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No not at this time.  Maybe a lot later down the road.   It would be too huge for me to rig.   But plans for rigging her may be done way way down the road.

 

Chuck

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally finished chapter four in its entirety.   The deck is finally planked.   There shouldnt be much much planking for a while.  Pretty straight forward from my last update.  Just follow your lining out of the deck planks and take your time.   Match the tapering and curve of each plank just like you did when planking the outboard hull.

 

I will begin chapter chapter five by getting back to some outboard details.  First the cheeks and hawse holes...then the rudder.   Afterwards it will be back inboard to add the details to the bulwarks and the guns.

 

Feel free to ask me any questions.

 

Some photos...

deckplanked.jpg

deckplanked2.jpg

deckplanked3.jpg

deckplanked4.jpg

deckplanked5.jpg

deckplanked6.jpg

 

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17 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Amazing work! I see you have a new friend to keep you company on the deck.

I've been thinking that all MSW members should have similar representations of themselves on the decks of their builds, at the scale of their builds.  How cool would that be?  If someone had the ability to 3d print such figures, I'd purchase one of myself. lol

 

Chuck, your build looks flawless as usual; it's really fun to see these updates.

 

Alan

 

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Thank you guys.

 

I will be working on the cheeks next so I can add the hawse holes.   I have been contemplating a new concept for making these for quite some time.   The one thing that is always disappointing me with even the latest and most innovative kits are the head rails.  They just look awful.  Even with these so-called Chinese kits that everyone is raving about.   Once you get beyond the framing on those its basically the same old stuff.  So I am spending lots of time trying to engineer something that will finally make these less difficult to make while not looking kit-like or awful. 

 

 DSCF5516.JPG

DSCF5515.JPG

 

Hopefully have an update soon.  If I stare at these photos enough I am sure I will come up with something!!  😉

 

Chuck

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