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  • 2 weeks later...

Chuck, as usual your work is astounding. I'm so glad I went this route instead of anything else.  I have a question...what size treenails do you suggest for the deck and hull? I'm going to have a bit of time killing off the chemo so I figured I could spend it making treenails (mindless and almost soothing I hope) 

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  • 4 weeks later...

No not really.  Too much going on out of the shop lately.  My son is buying a house up in the woods and we are doing lots of work on ours as well. So I am trying to beat the weather getting too cold.  Its all outside work.   Gonna be a few weeks before I can even consider making saw dust.  The shop has almost come to a halt. 


My old 100 year old house needs the front porch knocked down and rebuilt before the winter rolls in.  Its an old

wrap around open porch that is ready to fall down.  Gonna take a while.   Got an old detached garage now condemned which is also coming down.  Some of the guys here have seen it.  
 

Im getting too old for this stuff.
 

 

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When I retired I was looking for some satisfying work and happened to join Habitat For Humanity as a site supervisor. As the "newbe" I wasn't always given the prime work of building new houses. I got my fair share of rehabs. One was a 100 year old two story monster. I won't begin to relate the problems with construction and material differences compared to modern times. Everything was a contest and a compromise. Two by fours were really two by four inches (sort of, they had dried out so much they were not quite a full dimension). I can sense what you are encountering.

 

As a home owner I have never resolved the conflict of macro work priorities balanced against the love I have for ship model building. No less that it is a business endeavor!!!

Joe

Edited by Thistle17
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Chuck,

 

I empathize. My house was built in 1898, and has a myriad of issues. Between work and renovation on the house, I really have not had time in the past two years work on ship modeling.

 

Hopefully, these projects will go quickly and you can get back in the workshop.

 

- Tim I.

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3 hours ago, Chuck said:

Kids are al busy....taking MCATs or exams or working.  Its just one of those things....we have all been there.  Cant wait till its all done though.

wel am also to far away😲 so i cant help out.... my work is to restore/rebuilds old houses in Norway, good luck and stay safe😊

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  • 4 weeks later...

Under the General Product Discussions tab above and then "Downloads area for the Winnie Monograph Chapters"


But here is a quick link right to the PDF file....   https://modelshipworld.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=640941

 

Steve

Edited by CaptMorgan
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Everyone: Quick question.. I have already hardcopied the friezes for the stern gallery and along the hull but I want to redo them on better quality paper. But for the life of me I cant find the images that I need to download and print. Does anyone have a quick link I can use? 

 

Im getting ready to start the Winnie as I am now seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on my Agamemnon. 🙂 

 

Mike Draper

Edited by Kusawa2000
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1 hour ago, Chuck said:

In the other tabs above......where the other discussions are ongoing.  

 

https://modelshipworld.com/forum/93-general-project-discussions-on-planking-fittings-and-monograph-chapters/

Chuck: I have looked under each of the subject headings in that section and still cant find the freizes.. do you which know which heading?  I did find them under this subject heading but I dont think they are scaled for the Winnie.. unless ya download the JPEG and then play with them until they fit.. Sorry for being a pain.. just want to make sure I get the right image. 

 

Mike Draper

Edited by Kusawa2000
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4 hours ago, Kusawa2000 said:

Everyone: Quick question.. I have already hardcopied the friezes for the stern gallery and along the hull but I want to redo them on better quality paper. But for the life of me I cant find the images that I need to download and print. Does anyone have a quick link I can use? 

 

Im getting ready to start the Winnie as I am now seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on my Agamemnon. 🙂 

 

Mike Draper

 

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Finally an update as life returns to normal....well not exactly during these times but I am back on the project.

 

Since I want I turn the hull over so I can drill the rudder port, I thought I would put the rudder together.  This should be the last time we have to turn the hull upside down....

 

So the rudder.  I was originally going to go with a one piece rudder....BUT...I was pleaded with to do a built up version as well.  I cant do both because that would be a lot of wood that would end up being tossed.  That would be a an incredible waste of 1/4" thick wood.  So a built up version it is.

 

To begin,  glue the three main pieces of the rudder together with PVA.   Dont sand the joints at all because they are precision laser cut for a snug tight fit.  No need to use pencil on the seams either.  The laser char simulates that nicely.  You can see below how tight the pieces fit.

 

rudder.jpg

Then add a 1/4" by 3/64" strip along the aft edge as shown on the plans.   That is followed up with a small length of 1/4" x 1/16" strip along the bottom of the rudder.  So far easy-peasy.

rudder2.jpg

But then you must sand and shape the rudder to the typical shape.  Meaning the rudder blade tapers narrower towards the aft lower edge.  Quite a bit actually to around 5/32" thick at the bottom aft corner.   

 

The forward edge where the rudder hinges will go...this edge needs to be chamfered on both side almost its entire length.  But all the way.  Again...you should follow the plan which I will attach at the bottom of this post..its 8 1/2" x 11" so you can print it out and keep beside you as you work on the rudder.

 

When satisfied,  the pintels and gudgeons will be made from boxwood.  They may be fragile to handle but once glued to the rudder are just as strong as brass.  I painted the top and bottom edges black right away.  This will make a nice crisp edge when you glue them on so painting these small edges will only require a bit of touch up.  I hope that makes sense.

 

I also inserted the pins into the pintels ahead of time.  Dont make them too long.  The straps of these hinges are too thick initially.  Dont worry about that at this time.  Just glue them onto the rudder as shown on the plan.  There are five of them with the longest one at the bottom.  Keep the angles consistent. You can see one of them temporarily slid into position.  Once glued on.....

 

rudder3.jpg Sand the straps thinner.  I sanded mine to about 1/32" thick or slightly thinner towards the aft edge.  See below.  Note how the pre-painted edges are nice and crisp after sanding these straps free of laser char.

rudder4.jpg

There are a few more iron bands and the spectacle plate as well.   For these I just used 1/16" x 1/32" strips.  Much easier to work with.  All of these details are shown on the plan.  Just take your time.  The edges of the strips were painted black first just like the pintels.  Then the outsides were sanded thinner and the hard corners softened up a bit.  I also took this time to mark the locations for the bolts along the straps with a sharp pencil.

 

Then I drilled the holes with a #73 bit so I could insert some 20 pound black monofilament in them.  This was used to simulate the bolts.  It was inserted into each hole and snipped clean so the ends stood proud of the straps a bit simulating the bolts.

 

rudder5.jpg

To finish it up, The wood hinges and straps were carefully painted black.  Then I used a bit of weathering powder to help them look like metal.  See below.   Lastly, I added the two ring bolts for the spectacle plate from 22 gauge wire and a tiny portion of 1/8" x 1/8" strip to simulate the aft end of the tiller sticking through the rudder head.  You can see that below.   Its just 3/64" thick.  I did soften all the aft edges before gluing that on.

 

Thats it!!!  A down and dirty laser cut rudder with tabled joints.

 

rudder6.jpg

Over the next couple of days I will drill that rudder port and repeat the process of gluing the rudder hinges to the stern post so I can install the the rudder.  Stay tuned.

 

And there is no reason why you couldnt use brass for the metal work if you prefer.  But I know most of you dont have the equipment to do the soldering and that is a whole additional skillset.  But you can use brass if you want.   This is a great way to simulate the same results however.

 

Here is the PDF of the rudder as well for download.

rudder.pdf

 

 

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Master ship model designer/builder....talk about an understatement! Yeah I'm blowing smoke but it is well deserved. I'm going to try this out myself as it looks amazing but guaranteed I am destined to fail doing it by hand. Seeing how you made the boxwood hardware will be a treat. Will this be part of Chapter 5? I need to start hiding a few bucks away here and there even though I'm far away yet :)

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